vertex_vr4
Well-Known Member
Ok so i finally bit the bullet and got busy rewiring the fuel pump. I had been having all sorts of wierd knock issues - some of which were just unexplainable (like how can i possible be getting knock while coasting :shock: )
Any hooo... I got my fuel filter replaced just last week and this alone SOLVED halve my knock. If anyone else is having problems with knock maybe try replacing the fuel filter first.
Reviewing the vfaq sites I have come to the conclusion that they are next to useless if you are a beginner like myself. Comments like "you decide the wiring path" were definitely not helpful and wasted a couple of hours.
Here are my findings:
1. I used 8 gauge wire which on reflection was very much overkill but did help alot when feeding wires under carpets cause it was stiffer. It may also be good if you ever want power in the boot (eg amp/speakers/carputer etc)
2. I ran my wire along the passenger side of the car as that is where the most accessible 'through the firewall' hole is. (just under the windscreen water tank)
3. Do as much as you can without hooking up the positive lead to the battery and without cutting the fuel pump wire.
4. Figure out how you will be connecting the 8 gauge to the relay. (This for me was a slightly crushed 8 gauge spade terminal.)
5. When you do cut your fuel pump wire make the terminals you put on either side connectable. (ie one male and the other female) so you can quickly put it all back to stock should something go wrong.
6. Dont solder the connections to your relay. Relays can die and it is nice to be able to replace them without desoldering everything.
7. Tape around all the terminals that will be plugging onto your relay. Then when they are all connected, tape around the lot. This makes a nice plug.
8. Because I like the stock look I black taped the lead in the engine bay. This also helps reduce movement and protects (a bit) from heat. Also be sure to cable tie everything down.
9. Buy one of those screw top 'in-line' fuse holders from jaycar. Take it apart and you will see a flat topped terminal on the longer side. Rip this off can plug your 8 gauge into it and recrimp. Best to solder this bit after crimping.
10. Buy a 8 gauge ring style terminator and bend it at 90 degrees. Solder this in to the 'other' end of the fuse holder. This will sit perfectly under the battery bolt. (it will make sense when you see it)
Hope this is useful. btw: all mistakes and trips to jaycar/dicksmith/jb etc cost me about $50 bucks
and about 10 hours worth of time. :evil:
Having said that, it now drives predictably - ie knock is absent unless you get around the 90% + inj duty cycle range.
No more phantom knock.
Cheers,
John
Any hooo... I got my fuel filter replaced just last week and this alone SOLVED halve my knock. If anyone else is having problems with knock maybe try replacing the fuel filter first.
Reviewing the vfaq sites I have come to the conclusion that they are next to useless if you are a beginner like myself. Comments like "you decide the wiring path" were definitely not helpful and wasted a couple of hours.
Here are my findings:
1. I used 8 gauge wire which on reflection was very much overkill but did help alot when feeding wires under carpets cause it was stiffer. It may also be good if you ever want power in the boot (eg amp/speakers/carputer etc)
2. I ran my wire along the passenger side of the car as that is where the most accessible 'through the firewall' hole is. (just under the windscreen water tank)
3. Do as much as you can without hooking up the positive lead to the battery and without cutting the fuel pump wire.
4. Figure out how you will be connecting the 8 gauge to the relay. (This for me was a slightly crushed 8 gauge spade terminal.)
5. When you do cut your fuel pump wire make the terminals you put on either side connectable. (ie one male and the other female) so you can quickly put it all back to stock should something go wrong.
6. Dont solder the connections to your relay. Relays can die and it is nice to be able to replace them without desoldering everything.
7. Tape around all the terminals that will be plugging onto your relay. Then when they are all connected, tape around the lot. This makes a nice plug.
8. Because I like the stock look I black taped the lead in the engine bay. This also helps reduce movement and protects (a bit) from heat. Also be sure to cable tie everything down.
9. Buy one of those screw top 'in-line' fuse holders from jaycar. Take it apart and you will see a flat topped terminal on the longer side. Rip this off can plug your 8 gauge into it and recrimp. Best to solder this bit after crimping.
10. Buy a 8 gauge ring style terminator and bend it at 90 degrees. Solder this in to the 'other' end of the fuse holder. This will sit perfectly under the battery bolt. (it will make sense when you see it)
Hope this is useful. btw: all mistakes and trips to jaycar/dicksmith/jb etc cost me about $50 bucks
and about 10 hours worth of time. :evil: Having said that, it now drives predictably - ie knock is absent unless you get around the 90% + inj duty cycle range.
No more phantom knock.
Cheers,
John
