Fuel Regulator + Gauge on GSR RAIL

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Gday as per topic title

im having troubles with starting fuel pressure.

to fit a permenant fuel pressure gauge will i have to buy a new regulator or have people found a way around it ?

pics would also be good if you have a good working system

( not looking for adjusting fuel pressure as i know the regulator is good for 400hp )
 
The easiest solution would be to get a t-piece and 2 clamps from a hose/fitting store (one with 2 barbed ends and a socket with same thread as your pressure guage). Then just screw the guage into the t-piece, cut the fuel return line in half, fit the t-piece (and attach clamps) and voila fuel guage is fitted.

On a side note, I'm not sure about the GSR regulator, but I know the evo regulator gets overloaded if you fit a bigger fuel pump (i.e. walbro 255L). If you have fitted a bigger pump, you may find it is flooding your engine, and therefore you will need an adjustable regulator to reduce this.
 
Then just screw the guage into the t-piece, cut the fuel return line in half, fit the t-piece (and attach clamps) and voila fuel guage is fitted.

That's a good way to read the pressure from the reg return to the tank but useless if you want to know rail pressure.
 
The easiest solution would be to get a t-piece and 2 clamps from a hose/fitting store (one with 2 barbed ends and a socket with same thread as your pressure guage). Then just screw the guage into the t-piece, cut the fuel return line in half, fit the t-piece (and attach clamps) and voila fuel guage is fitted.

On a side note, I'm not sure about the GSR regulator, but I know the evo regulator gets overloaded if you fit a bigger fuel pump (i.e. walbro 255L). If you have fitted a bigger pump, you may find it is flooding your engine, and therefore you will need an adjustable regulator to reduce this.

do you have any info about this?

only asking as 1 of my mates hs a 2.3 stroked evo 2 buily by Micks motorsport, makes 500hp. he is running a surge tank with bosch ext and walbro internal, but is runnin oem intake manifold, throttlebody, fuel rail and fuel reg without probs
 
Its mainly the factory ECU stuff you have a problem with,back in the day I would just drill a .1mm hole in the reg and that was enough bypass to stop over running. Aftermarket ECU and it doesn't matter, I run a 320lph pump std reg and 2200cc injectors on an Evo and have a factory like idle. I've made over 550whp on factory regs.
 
Dunno what happened to my post...

I had a wrx that used a tee and barbs on the line between the filter and the rail. the gauge in the cab was a oil pressure gauge and utilized a what looked like the matching electric sender. this had no issues in the time i had the car although i would avoid barbs fittings on the high pressure line.
a oil pressure gauge is cheaper than a fuel pressure gauge. do not use the tube mechanical ones as you would be piping fuel into the cab and courting disaster
 
On a side note, I'm not sure about the GSR regulator, but I know the evo regulator gets overloaded if you fit a bigger fuel pump (i.e. walbro 255L). If you have fitted a bigger pump, you may find it is flooding your engine, and therefore you will need an adjustable regulator to reduce this.

Sorry mate...but thats the biggest load of bullshit I have read in a long time...Ive had 3 different cars with that setup you have mentioned and never had that problem with any of them...dunno where you got that from but its not true.
 
Where i got that from... Personal experience... Fitted a 255, and suddenly had 11:1 AFR on idle dropping to below 8:1 on boost (dyno sensor didn't go any lower). As was previously mentioned by caged, this probably was because i was running a stock ecu, so i should have mentioned that in my post. But at the end of the day, a adjustable fpr is cheaper than replacing the ecu. Before anyone says it, i know you are better off with a programmable ecu, but considering i was able to get 190kws out of the stock ECU with just a fpr to support the bigger pump, (4G63, TD05 @ 16psi, & 3" exhaust) this is prob the cheapest way to get some decent performance.
 
Yea mine was personal experience with a hand full of gsr's and Evo 1-3s (all Jap spec if it makes a differance). I've only found it to be at idle and cruise, never on boost. This is when running walbros and having good voltage at the pump. If you cut open a factory reg you will fing it reduces right down on the return side and physically can't bypass the fuel and causes it to run higher pressure when the demand is low.
 
that is very similar to how i installed my FPR lol.
I discovered after purchasing it, that I didn't have an adaptor to bolt it to the fuel rail, so I just drilled out the same type of hole (just a lot bigger) in the Mitsubishi regulator, then mounted the FPR in the return line.
 
Cut fuel feed soft hose and put inline if you want permanent or for temporary get a double length banjo bolt undo fuel filter banjo bolt install another banjo on top and put on double banjo bolt. Then contect fuel hose to new banjo and gauge.
 
Theoretically it will reduce the fuel pump max flow slightly but iv still made high 400whp on walbro's. Factory regs are 100 times better than most aftermarket. Have a read of this, the mitsi regs are very similar. http://www.theoldone...cles/regulator/

sorry to bring up an old thread but I just read the link above, has anyone done this mod and has it been as beneficial as described? Im looking into FPR's but if this works, i might just do this instead.
cheers
 
Im still thinking on this.
The later evo ecu run a dual speed pump. But I hate the idea of a volt drop resister as its just using power to make heat.
Im thinking of converting to a pwm pump drive with a jaycar kit and a solid state relay. That way you can run the pump at 30% duty at idle and 100% above a chosen rpm.

No restrictions then, you could even run dual pumps off the same relay all with a factory fpr...
 

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