mimmo_gsr
Member
Hi All,
Just a lesson to all of you, if you find a leaking master, slave or master to slave hose don't leave it too long to fix or that $45-$150 repair could escalate significantly....as I found out through damaging a syncro. What annoys me is that it happened while entering a car park, not hammering around a motorkhana track!!
Anyway back to the proceedure.
Most bolts on the GSR are 14mm 17mm and 19mm with the odd 10mm and 8mm on the smaller stuff. A breaker bar (or bit of pipe) is handy for extra leverage on tough bolts. A pry bar/crowbar is needed also. I had the luxury of an air gun, but the majority of the bolts needed to be undone with a socket or ring spanner due to space constraints. A good jack or two, some axel stands, hand cleaner, degreaser to clean parts.
Disconnect the Battery.
I started under the car and removed the exhaust, 2 bolts on the bottom of the turbo and 2 at the catalytic converter and a small bolt in the center on the rubber support.
Drain the oil from the gearbox and transfer case. This will save on weight later on.
Next the transfer case support brackets, these get undone at #1 to remove the brackets then two more bolts at #2 and the transfer is now free to be removed. Its supported by some lugs so it wont fall when the bolts are undone. Pry it off these lugs with a prybar and have someone help you hold the tail shaft while you pull the transfer away. Left, down and towards the front of the car. Only a few kgs so not too hard. Tie up the tail shaft with some wire to stop it resting on the floor. There is also a small sheild that can be unbolted at this stage too.
You can now get to the starter motor wires from the bottom, slightly better than from the top. One unplugs and the other has a bolt and a wire.
While you are under the car undo the nuts on the gearbox mounts but leave the bolts in for now, just to keep it all together until your ready to pull the gearbox out. Also remove the passenger side drive shaft support bracket, which is clear to see with all the other stuff out of the way.
Remove the Speedo Drive cable, Disconnect the slave cylinder from the bottom.
Now from the top remove the airbox, inlet plumbing, intercooler lines and the master to slave lines. Watch that clutch fluid on your paint work!!
Undo the bolts holing the starter motor in and remove that. I found it came out easier from the bottom now there is more room down there, but it is possible to remove it from the top of the engine bay.
Next is the strut disassembly, undo all the bolts market in red and then to remove the steering rod hit the bit of metal marked in yellow with a hammer and it will fall out. Don?t hit the top of the bolt as this will damage to ball joint.
Do the same on the other side and then allow the brake assembly to fall forward and wiggle the drive shaft free. It does come out with a little persuasion. Now crawl back under the car with a pry bar and lever the drive shafts out of the gearbox, the driver?s side one is a little more difficult as it has an o ring to hold it in there. The passenger side shaft can be left where it is, but fully remove the driver?s side shaft.
You are reaching the final stretch!
Support the gearbox with a jack and remove the lower cross member, two bolts either end. Now you can knock the bolts out of the gearbox mounts too. Remove the top gearbox mount from inside the engine bay.
Now there are only three bolts to go.
The bolts market #2 need to be removed, but don?t worry the gearbox is supported by the jack and the two lugs marked #3. #3 had bolts earlier but from the other side of the bell housing. #1 are the bolts that held the starter motor in.
Now two jacks are useful for this last bit. Support the engine via a block of wood on a jack under the sump. Pry the gearbox away from the block at first with a pry bar and after with a rocking motion. Try and pull it as horizontally as possible being careful with the clutch fork getting caught. Once the input splines are free from the clutch assembly the box should be free for removal.
I think that?s it
I am sticking with this clutch as its not that old <10 000 it?s a Daiken/Exceedy standard replacement clutch with a 2400lb pressure plate. I am going to pull the clutch apart to inspect as I think it got a hammering the last few weeks pulling the car around in third gear and going from first to third:roll:
I also need a new steering boot for passenger side, clean up that oil leak which has been like that for quite a while. It looks like the head?. Going to try to re-torque the head bolts first rather than replace the head gasket at this stage. It will get a new head gasket with a reconditioned head. I will replace the slave cylinder too while its out of the car.
Hope this was informative to those thinking about doing their own clutch replacement. Its not that hard probably only 3-4 hrs and 2 mins of that is hard, dragging the gear box from under the car!!!!
Regards
Mimmo
Note 2 of those photos I have got off the net, sorry to those that I took them from
Just a lesson to all of you, if you find a leaking master, slave or master to slave hose don't leave it too long to fix or that $45-$150 repair could escalate significantly....as I found out through damaging a syncro. What annoys me is that it happened while entering a car park, not hammering around a motorkhana track!!
Anyway back to the proceedure.
Most bolts on the GSR are 14mm 17mm and 19mm with the odd 10mm and 8mm on the smaller stuff. A breaker bar (or bit of pipe) is handy for extra leverage on tough bolts. A pry bar/crowbar is needed also. I had the luxury of an air gun, but the majority of the bolts needed to be undone with a socket or ring spanner due to space constraints. A good jack or two, some axel stands, hand cleaner, degreaser to clean parts.
Disconnect the Battery.
I started under the car and removed the exhaust, 2 bolts on the bottom of the turbo and 2 at the catalytic converter and a small bolt in the center on the rubber support.
Drain the oil from the gearbox and transfer case. This will save on weight later on.
Next the transfer case support brackets, these get undone at #1 to remove the brackets then two more bolts at #2 and the transfer is now free to be removed. Its supported by some lugs so it wont fall when the bolts are undone. Pry it off these lugs with a prybar and have someone help you hold the tail shaft while you pull the transfer away. Left, down and towards the front of the car. Only a few kgs so not too hard. Tie up the tail shaft with some wire to stop it resting on the floor. There is also a small sheild that can be unbolted at this stage too.
You can now get to the starter motor wires from the bottom, slightly better than from the top. One unplugs and the other has a bolt and a wire.
While you are under the car undo the nuts on the gearbox mounts but leave the bolts in for now, just to keep it all together until your ready to pull the gearbox out. Also remove the passenger side drive shaft support bracket, which is clear to see with all the other stuff out of the way.
Remove the Speedo Drive cable, Disconnect the slave cylinder from the bottom.
Now from the top remove the airbox, inlet plumbing, intercooler lines and the master to slave lines. Watch that clutch fluid on your paint work!!
Undo the bolts holing the starter motor in and remove that. I found it came out easier from the bottom now there is more room down there, but it is possible to remove it from the top of the engine bay.
Next is the strut disassembly, undo all the bolts market in red and then to remove the steering rod hit the bit of metal marked in yellow with a hammer and it will fall out. Don?t hit the top of the bolt as this will damage to ball joint.
Do the same on the other side and then allow the brake assembly to fall forward and wiggle the drive shaft free. It does come out with a little persuasion. Now crawl back under the car with a pry bar and lever the drive shafts out of the gearbox, the driver?s side one is a little more difficult as it has an o ring to hold it in there. The passenger side shaft can be left where it is, but fully remove the driver?s side shaft.
You are reaching the final stretch!
Support the gearbox with a jack and remove the lower cross member, two bolts either end. Now you can knock the bolts out of the gearbox mounts too. Remove the top gearbox mount from inside the engine bay.
Now there are only three bolts to go.
The bolts market #2 need to be removed, but don?t worry the gearbox is supported by the jack and the two lugs marked #3. #3 had bolts earlier but from the other side of the bell housing. #1 are the bolts that held the starter motor in.
Now two jacks are useful for this last bit. Support the engine via a block of wood on a jack under the sump. Pry the gearbox away from the block at first with a pry bar and after with a rocking motion. Try and pull it as horizontally as possible being careful with the clutch fork getting caught. Once the input splines are free from the clutch assembly the box should be free for removal.
I think that?s it
I am sticking with this clutch as its not that old <10 000 it?s a Daiken/Exceedy standard replacement clutch with a 2400lb pressure plate. I am going to pull the clutch apart to inspect as I think it got a hammering the last few weeks pulling the car around in third gear and going from first to third:roll:
I also need a new steering boot for passenger side, clean up that oil leak which has been like that for quite a while. It looks like the head?. Going to try to re-torque the head bolts first rather than replace the head gasket at this stage. It will get a new head gasket with a reconditioned head. I will replace the slave cylinder too while its out of the car.
Hope this was informative to those thinking about doing their own clutch replacement. Its not that hard probably only 3-4 hrs and 2 mins of that is hard, dragging the gear box from under the car!!!!
Regards
Mimmo
Note 2 of those photos I have got off the net, sorry to those that I took them from
