Getting the Cyclone Manifold to work correctly

4GTuner

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okay then,

cause the monte is the last last of the vr4 engines, so its quite possible it was a minor change they made.

more than meets the eye!

easist way though, do what you did, back to back dyno, that way you can also choose your changeover point.

i will be doing that when my link get tuned, but its simple for you as well GSRSOL with the 11tybillion outputs on the SM4 :p
 
Mine also.
Ive got a spare pulled apart Cyclone Mani if anyone is keen....Aswell as the Diahragm and linkage and mani mount with the hard vac lines on it. I'm running the Aus manifold.
 
Hey guys just trying to work out the solenoid pins for the cyclone actuator

the top "T" pin goes to ECU pin out #53

the other "I" pin goes to the MPI relay

does any one know what terminal on the MPI relay I plug into
 
4g63tcyborg said:
does any one know what terminal on the MPI relay I plug into

one that has power when the cars turned on :)

actually, the power from the MPI goes through the red wires in the engine bay.

so any large'ish gage red wire will do, personally, i would take it just before the injector resistor.

injector resistor has 5 wires, the middle wire of the resistor is just a plain switched 12v from the MPI
 
4g63tcyborg said:
Hey guys just trying to work out the solenoid pins for the cyclone actuator

the top "T" pin goes to ECU pin out #53

the other "I" pin goes to the MPI relay

does any one know what terminal on the MPI relay I plug into

it was pin 53 on the ECU from memory (light green wire) which is missing in the cyborg/C73A loom
 
yup,

i ended up using the FPR solenoid wiring originally as i wasnt using the FPR stuff, i just swapped the pins at the ecu.
 
has anyone considered that 3500rpm and below is where vacum is at its peak (apart from when planting it)most ppl cruise around and by having the runners closed thus increasing torque down low fuel econmy is improved. more to the point at 4000rpm the car is usually on boost meaning the actuator may not be vacum controled more likely atmospheric/boost triggered.
 
youda said:
more to the point at 4000rpm the car is usually on boost meaning the actuator may not be vacum controled.

that why there is a vacumn canister in the factory system.

its a one way can that stores the vac just for that reason.
 
I have worked it all out boys and it works.

i just have to drive it to see what the difference is will let you know soon

thanks for all of your help and tips boys
 
found this thread while searching. it helps a bit but doesn't give me an answer.

in my white lancer i have a 6 bolt.....it was there when i got it and ive just rebuilt it. it has a pretty big turbo T61 and 280 cams...waiting for that to spool up is ....slow. I started to look for causes of the slow spool....usual stuff checked for boost leaks etc. all good. however i noticed the cyclone manifold has a direct line to the actuator direct from the the plenum.

i have an old cyclone manifold the same as the one on the car that is cracked so I pulled it apart to see how it all works. when there is no vacuum the butterflies are wide open... if you suck on the hose connected to the actuator the butterflies close. regardless of long or short ...closing the runner should give a bit better spool.

so I ran the car and looked at the actuator ...at idle its firmly closing the butterflies....but as soon as i blip the throttle it loses vacuum and the butterflies open. so having read this thread i see the ecu has some bearing on keeping the actuator closed and that a vacuum canister is used to store vacuum. well the car has a wolf ecu and its old....like me. so has any one got any suggestions on how to keep some vacuum up to the actuator while there is no manifold vacuum available? I think some sort of cannister will be needed but has anyone done this before....not used the ecu to control things
 
To keep the canister open, you will require a vac can (which is pretty much a can with 2 hose fittings on the end) in between your manifold pressure port and the actuator for the butterflies.

A solenoid will be required to close the line off / keep vac in the can therefor maintaining a closed actuator.

Connect the solenoid to your wolf output and program the wolf to open at whatever rev you decide. I'd get your tuner to do a run with the runners closed, then open, and basically find the overlapping point and open at that rpm...
 

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