Gsr not starting

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Ian91

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Joined
Jun 25, 2010
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1,651
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Pomona, Sunshine Coast, QLD
hello, just discovered an issue with my gsr as I was about to go out.

Car would not start, will crank, can hear the isc move in and out with key on and off, can hear mfi relay click on and off but no start.

It started and run fine during the week and since then I have done nothing to the car.

I think it might be fuel pump related but not sure yet. I recently installed an AEM fuel pump and it ran 100% after install.

When I turn the key to start it'll crank but I don't hear the fuel pump, also don't hear it prime when in on position. If I stick my head around to the engine bay while cranking there is no pressure reading on the fuel pressure reg gauge. This is what makes me think it's the pump.

To check this I removed the inspection cover and pulled off the plug to the pump cradle, located the black w/blue trace wire and read with a bolt meter while key was in on position. I got 11-12v at the plug. So I thought maybe a plug had not been attached correctly inside the cradle, undid the hose at the chassis rail and there was a lot of fuel there ( I would have thought after cranking there would be none or little fuel there if the pump wasn't working). Took the cradle out and checked all the connection and they seem fine, tipped the cradle upside down and abit of fuel poured out ( surely there would be no fuel in the top of the cradle of the pp wasn't pumping?). Put it all back together just to see if it was a dodgey connection and still not starting, but I can still hear the mfi relay click on and off and have voltage at the pump.

Not sure what to do? Surely a brand new in the box fuel pump wouldn't have just died sitting I. The tank for a few days???


Thanks
 
yep a pump will die that soon.

Ive had it happen and like you thought nah cant be the pump...its new....but it was.
 
just to be sure it isnt a loom wiring fault such as old cracked wiring causing resistance. run a wire direct from pos battery to the pump power wire....
 
Ok, Brian I used your idea; pump ran as soon as I touched the wire to the battery, now that the rail had fuel it started and then continued to run fine. I think maybe there isn't enough current to run the pump at the same time as the starter, so I will have to run a relay with some heavier gauge wire to supply less resistance to the pump.

Does anyone have a diagram of how to wire up a relay to work for me?

Thanks for the idea Brian !
 
no problem mate...that was how I figured out my pump was buggered.

so with the relay. run the 30 to the battery pos use the existing pump power wire to trigger the relay..I think relay pin 85. relay pin 86 then goes to ground. check the diagram that comes with the relay as i could have that arse about. 87 then goes to the pump power
 
Ok, finally got around to wiring in the relay setup for the fuel pump, the wires are all plugged into the relay as per above ( it matched what the packet said). However I'm still having issues.

If I put a wire straight to the pump it will pump, then I can start the car. But once it's running sometimes it will just run on what's in the rail then stall and the other times the pump will continue running and the car will keep running.

The next time I tried the pump ran itself once I started cranking the engine but stalled once the rail pressure was gone.

It seems like the pump is cutting in and out for some reason. I know it's not the pump because it'll run fine with a wire straight off the battery. I think maybe the mfi relay maybe faulty, or the ecu, but I had been driving the car before I changed the pump. Could the pump have wrecked the mfi or ecu by drawing to much power? Is that a thing?

Can I run the trigger for the pump relay off the ON position so it starts priming before the starter wants all the power to start the engine?

Not sure what to do here.

Thanks
 
I think jack was just saying that running a relay off a relay is just another possible issue thats why he said to run the trigger wire from the feed into the first relay to trigger the 2nd, rather than using the output of the first relay
I think ill leave it to him to explain but it was mentioned in another thread not long ago, maybe a week or 2
 
BYBY5L said:
I think jack was just saying that running a relay off a relay is just another possible issue thats why he said to run the trigger wire from the feed into the first relay to trigger the 2nd, rather than using the output of the first relay
I think ill leave it to him to explain but it was mentioned in another thread not long ago, maybe a week or 2
Click to expand...
Yea I remember reading that he other day but didn't think it would give me an issue since everything was working before I put in the new pump, thanks
 
You could do what you want.
By triggering the pump to prime for 5sec when you flick the key. It would involve electronic box. Like a 555 timer and some transistors. Thats all I know about that.
Mitsi just dont do it for whatever reason.

Under the bonnet is the pump test plug. You could manually switch that to earth to run pumps. Dodgy.

You will not get power on the black/blue until cranking. Maybe run a test light on it and see if it still has power when car stalls. If so, change the test light to your new wiring and see if I there is power at pump when it stalls.
Must be a fault somewhere...and if it was fine before then chances are its in the new part. I suggest soldered connections and no cheap relays. The mfi relays are actually pretty good, just not sure what its rated for.

Clicking when turning key can lead you astray. The mfi relay is 2 relays in one box. One side is the ecu power the other is for fuel pump.
You can hear the ecu side switch off a few seconds after the key is turned off. This allows the isc to return to its resting spot, or maybe to the hot start position. Not sure, but the isc has power until the relay clicks.
 
Fixed. Had the relay earthed badly :/

Changed it over from where I had it earthed to the bottom bolt of the right seat belt and the pump sees 9v when cranking and 13.6v when idling, should get a little more than 9v when the battery is fully charged :)
 
Its amazing what a poor earth can do ay,
my car didnt like starting and had symptoms of a dodgy starter/ solenoid- turns out it was a shitty earth too
was the same again when I kept blowing the left tail light
good to see ya got it sorted
 
Thanks guys, took it for a spin, sounds good lol but there's something going on under load above 4.5-5k rpm seems as though there maybe a boost leak or a miss, doesn't want to get up over 5k rpm area and if you push it past it coughs and you can hear the revs run up and down a few hundred rpm. Will have to make a boost leak tester and give it a run no doubt there will be something since all the cooler pipes are made by hand and stuff like that. Then again I made my own coil on plug setup with that how to with the 300e coils might be an issue there too. I'll get it sorted eventually lol

Cheers guys
 
Sounds like a spark issue to me but you sound like ya know where ya need to be checking,
im gunna have a looksie an see if I can spot ya coil set up, never looked into it yet
 

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