Help required hsgr engine died

[Steve B.]

Hi in my hsgr driving down the road and the power just died it would appear to have no spark I have changed the amplifier, coil pack, and cam sensor all to no avail. any one know if there is any other sensors that may be at fault.? Thanks in advance for any advice Steve.

 

[BYBY5L]

checked the timing belt? Highly doubtful but in previous car i had, it just died while driving, checked the obvious signs and on spark was the symptom so changed out the coil ignitor etc couldn't figure it out and got a mate to look as well and when we pulled the cam cover off to check for any signs and thats when he noticed a few teeth at the top missing, went to replace and found a heap more teeth missing,
like i said doubtful and hopefully not,
maybe ecu related and probably more chance of it being that?

 

[4piknup]

How can it appear to have no spark? It either sparks or it doesnt.

As you have changed a heap of bits to no avail.
I suggest a dry and wet compression test and check the cam timing as in the post above.

Also maybe the crank sensor (I think you have this?)

 

[Steve B.]

How is a wet or dry compression test going to get me a spark again I will say it there is no spark the timing belt is fine the compression is fine just no spark.

 

[evo-gsr]

^ was thinking the same thing as I read his reply.

 

[4piknup]

Well go put a crank sensor in it. Check the wiring from all the things you replaced to the ecu with a ohm meter. Then, replace the ecu.

You heading in the right direction, keep going.

You said apparently no spark...
No spark where? At 1 plug or 2 plugs or all 4 plugs. Do you have power to the coils.

 

[CLuTZ]

Start with the crank angle sensor, as they seem quite common to fail on RVR's. Also double check to make sure that the replacement coils are mounted/wired up the same way as the ones you took out, just in case the firing order is out.

If no dice, pull the ECU out and check for leaking or blown capacitors... also smell it to see if it smells cooked.

 

[evo-gsr]

My point is if a auto sparky cant diagnose wrong lead position, do we ask questions to determine the general health of a engine of a guy who has obviously little mechanical knowledge? (he was asking how to get the rear springs out).

Thats a fair point. I see where your coming from now.

 

[Steve B.]

Where is the crack sensor located is it on the pulley or the flywheel. All the parts being used to replace the old ones are being taken directly from my second hsgr so I know they are good and wiring should be same

 

[4piknup]

Under the pulley. Undo the 4 little bolts on the balancer and remove timing belt cover. I think its about 2oclock position.

This assumes yours is there? Is your cam sensor under the intake cam wheel or on the gearbox end of the head?

 

[penngwyne]

I had similar/same problem with mine. (I did have a spark) which I think was due to both cam and crank sensors
It has been OK for 2 years now but with intermittent faults you never really know do you.

Check the sensor plugs are in and making contact OK and check the earth connection roughly in the middle of the firewall in the engine bay
Because replacing the crankshaft sensor is not just a little job.
The crank sensor wiring is clipped to the inside of the rear lower timing belt cover so the lower front cover has to come off

This is what I did

Put the car up on stands and use them in pairs. (if you don't have stands buy or borrow some. It's better than dying.)
Take off the LH front wheel and remove the bottom wheel arch cover. Now you can see the bottom of the timing belt cover.
I think the easiest way is to put a jack under the engine sump for support and remove the LHS engine mount.
There really is not a lot of room in there and moving the engine up and down helps a lot.
Be aware that jacking up the motor can lift the pressure off the stands so just be careful letting it down again.
To get the bottom timing cover off you will have to remove the drive belts for aircon, PS pump and water pump
You have to completely remove the a/c belt tensioner after undoing the lock nut and unscrewing the adjuster.
To get at some of the bolts for the lower cover you will have to take off the water pump pulley (which is in 2 parts and a bitch to put back in)
Remove the crankshaft pulley by taking out the 4 bolts. The pulley has a locating pin so you can't get it wrong when you put it back.
Quarter inch square drive ratchet with a 10mm socket is good for getting the bolts out of the timing cover,
some of which are different lengths and it matters and there are some in difficult places. If the cover won't come off you have missed one.
Be especially careful not to drop the one at the back coz it will disappear down behind the air con pump (I lost 2 down there and never found them)
Some wriggling and jacking up and down of the engine will be needed to take the cover off, then you can see the crank sensor.
Turn the crankshaft so the timing disk has a space under the sensor then remove the 2 bolts holding it in (you will see what I mean)
Obviously cable tie the wiring back in place as you don't want it touching the timing belt
Hope this is the info you are looking for?

 

[BMGTZ]

R.i.p engine

 

[penngwyne]

R.i.p engine

Don't give up hope yet

 

[penngwyne]

Where is the crack sensor located is it on the pulley or the flywheel. All the parts being used to replace the old ones are being taken directly from my second hsgr so I know they are good and wiring should be same

You have TWO?
Masochist!

("Crack sensor" located about a hand span below the belly button)

I don't suppose it is an ignition fusible link that has blown?
See pinned post for translated engine fuse covers.

I suppose the second HSGR is/was working OK as it is a lot of work pulling out crank sensors
You can get them at a very reasonable price from Rock Auto in USA or Amayama trading in Japan.
(Much cheaper than the $250 quoted by local Mitsi dealer for cam sensor)
The US parts are for an Eagle Talon I think but the PN are the same and the cam sensor I got fitted OK and worked.

Part numbers for:

N23WG SRHF 000 W09H 80D

1997.01.2

RVR 2000/4WD/WIDE HYPER SPORTS-GEAR R(4WD/DOHC/TURBO),4A/T

Part No / Description

MD327107 / SENSOR,CAMSHAFT POSITION
MD300101 / SENSOR,ENG CRANK ANGLE

 

[Steve B.]

Thanks for the information it sounds like I have a hell of a job in front of me x2 will attempt to have a go soon but afraid the weather here is not quite as reliable as yours. I will keep you posted on the progress thanks again for the info Steve.

 

[Super Top]

How are these RVR ECU's?

I've had a blown ECU twice with my Colt. Also no spark.
But they are known that they tend to go bad.

If the RVR ECU's tend to go bad as well I'll have to get one in spare.

 

[4piknup]

20yr old caps are known weaknesses.
Blown driver ic are the result of bad isc. And the isc is a suggested to be replaced at 100k service.

Caps and drivers can often be fixed

 

[penngwyne]

Thanks for the information it sounds like I have a hell of a job in front of me x2 will attempt to have a go soon but afraid the weather here is not quite as reliable as yours. I will keep you posted on the progress thanks again for the info Steve.

Weather here is wet and windy at the moment with overnight temps of 0c at times and daytime 11c we have a fire going all the time (its cold for us)

 

[penngwyne]

Have you checked all of the fuses and fusible links?

See the translated fuse covers pinned at the start of this forum

 

[Steve B.]

Checked all fuses and fusible links next thing on list is the ecu. Leaving crank sensor till last as it sounds the most difficult job.