How do you know if you have a 6 or 7 bolt flywheel?

4GTuner

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1. doesnt count as you have to port them back out to flow like a 6bolt anyway to make the same power at same boost
2. Those overweighted half girdle, cupboard handle things? I thought they were for the factory to lower the crank into block with and they forgot to take them off. Pfft Thats not a upgrade. A ugrade would be to a kiggly style full girdle plate that ties all the mains together not just pairs.

pop quiz- this is more to do with stupid wa laws than any engineering or design aspects of a 6bolt.

Does WA really want gearbox roll stops as per gsr + engine roll stops as well?
 
Crankwalk is a great feature of the 7 bolts, haven't heard of many instances in Aus strangely enough?
 
eJackulator said:
1. doesnt count as you have to port them back out to flow like a 6bolt anyway to make the same power at same boost
2. Those overweighted half girdle, cupboard handle things? I thought they were for the factory to lower the crank into block with and they forgot to take them off. Pfft Thats not a upgrade. A ugrade would be to a kiggly style full girdle plate that ties all the mains together not just pairs.

pop quiz- this is more to do with stupid wa laws than any engineering or design aspects of a 6bolt.


Does WA really want gearbox roll stops as per gsr + engine roll stops as well?
Ah....no you dont port them to anything like that... plus you cant get them out to the same lag inducing size as the boat anchor heads. Its more to do with shape of the port jack...not size

Jack.....really? Does WA really want gearbox roll stops as per gsr + engine roll stops as well? its the front mount at the timing cover not the roll stops

Jack...ask your self why you cant buy a kiggle girdle for a seven bolt....because it cant be improved. IT is a full girdle already. Take a look....because they arent just in pairs. All five bearings are joined

:wacko: custom engine mounts require engineering approval australia wide.....

crank walk is more associated with poor oil changes and heavy clutches...than a a 7 bolt early engine. I had two 6 bolt cranks that were fubar from excessive thrust clearance. BOTH were scored around the big ends as well. Kind of indicates that the owners never changed the oil
 
jacks dildo....is some times call a concrete vibrator. legend has it...Six bolts are required to assemble it

ah...yeah. Six bolts ARE dildos...
 
nah...at least a a 93 has a full girdle. UNLIKE a dido bolter. that makes a 93 a much better engine than a 6 dildo engine
 
Hi fucking what? you mean that company that bought all the old fucked engine molds because mitsubishi moved on. TO A SEVEN BOLT
 
edymadman7 said:
So what's a better a 6 or 7 bolt?
Big can of worms as you can see from the above posts, and it seems like it's a personal preference. However, 7 bolt are the more modern engine, they perform better, have a head design that works better in real driving situations and they have more aftermarket parts etc.

If they (6 bolts) were the better engine Mitsubishi would have used them from Evo I to IV.
 
Personally from everything I've ever learnt I thought the 7 bolts were leaps and bounds ahead of the 6's but every time I go on the internet all the keyboard warriors claim that the 6 is better. The most quoted reason for this is that they have stronger internals. How much fact is involved with that statement?
 
If you like track work and 'normal' driving the 7 bolt is a better choice. If you want to make big power from a stock bottom end and go fast in a straight line the 6 bolt wins.
7 bolt breathes better down low and mid range but suffer from skinny rods.
The 6 bolt has decent sized rods but the head ports are a bit big for mid range performance.
I've been making fairly big power on my stock block 6 bolt since about 2008 so treated right they are reliable.
Personal preference really.
 
Its pretty well known that a 7bolt will break rods long before a 6bolt needs a girdle.
So if you looking for a anchor, you could use a 6bolt, as it would be better at even that, but you might as well dig the 7 bolt with a 'leg out of bed' out of the garden bed and use that as a mediocre anchor.

Kw/l they arent a heap better than a 93t. A 6bolt is miles infront
 
ah...Nup. Jacky boy.

You keep kidding yourself...but secretly you want one. We know as you doth protest to much.

and the new name has it right.
6 bolts "for the wankers" 7 bolts massive extreme horsepower
 
Both can be built.
6 bolts were the earlier and probably over engineered. In my opinion, 7 bolts were brought back in line (over engineering brought back in line with target requirement of Mitsubishi).

What this means is they probably recognised that:
- Rods were big and heavy. Could be improved by lightening.
- ports were too big and reduced to increase velocity
- head studs were too big
- eng mount to transmission mount design change may be related to either efficiencies to labor or structural improvements (bell housing support).

Wouldn't it be great if we actually had a chance to get the thinking and calculations behind why Mitsubishi engineers did what they did (performance or manufacturing influence).

End of the day, most have the option of building whatever 4g they have. Most influential preference is based on the chassis they own. I know many wouldn't go out of their way to convert.

With that in mind, I like 6 bolts because I own Galants.
 
I have a built 6 bolt with ARP's top & bottom no girdle and forged rods with the bigger 7 bolt pins with 400+FW HP and still going strong after 4 years.
 

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