How to Convert A/C Switch to an In Dash Starter

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Muzz66

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How To Convert A/C Switch To In Dash Starter Button

Hopefully this walk through will be easy enough even for most novices. This mod will
Only suit those who have removed their A/C. As I have done this in my CC Coupe that is
how this walk through will be aimed at. Other models may well be similar or the same but I am unsure.

Things you will need.
Phillips Head
Wire Cutters
Soldering Iron
Solder (fluxed)
Amp tester or current tester
2 lengths of 10 amp wire 60 cm should be enough. Different colors makes it a bit easier.
1 length of red 15 amp wire
1 Relay I used a 30/40 amp as it was already on hand
4 Spades (female)
10cm of 5mm heat shrink
Zip ties
Electrical tape.

Method

1. Disconnect earth terminal to battery
2. Locate main feed to junction box under dash above interior fuse box and splice (solder) the red wire to this feed AFTER the fusible link.
3. Insulate and feed this wire behind the dash to behind the glove box careful not lay near moving parts (air duct levers and such) and anchor with zip ties.
4. Find a suitable place to locate your relay. I used the metal bar which the glove box bolts to.
5. Solder a spade to the red wire, insulate it and push onto the appropriate terminal on the relay. This will be your main feed.
6.Creat an earth strap for the relay and fit. I earthed at the ECU with the other earths there. You can reconnect your battery now
7.Remove radio and climate control fascia panel, unplug hazard lights, rear demister and stereo and sit aside.
8. Remove air duct directly behind vents careful not to break the swivels on the side as they are weak.
9. You can now access the A/C switch. Remove by lifting the small catch on the top and push out towards interior. On the side there is a small copper flap, lift and the small wire sprig will fall out. The switch will no longer stay on so it is now push on release off
10. Unplug the switch and cut all wires leaving about a 1cm on the plug, insulate the cut wire and anchor with a zip tie.
11. There are 2 rows of wires on the plug,1 row of 4 wires and 1 row of 2 wires. The 2 wires will be the ones you use. Solder the 2 10 amp wires to these. The blue/red will be the live side of the switch and the other will go to your relay.
12. Feed these 2 wires through the a/c switch hole and feed to your relay and anchor with zip ties. Replace air duct and facia panel
13. The blue/red wire you have just soldered to the a/c switch then needs to be spliced to a power lead which is live ONLY when ignition switch is in the ON position.I spliced into a black/white wire near the ECU.Use you current tester to work out which wire this is but should be black/white and is the main feed to ECU,Coil pack etc. Insulate.
14. Now solder a spade onto the other wire you just soldered to the A/C switch insulate and connect to the relay on the appropriate terminal.Most relays come with a diagram and easy to work out.
15. Now locate the starter motor wire which will be near the black/white wire you spliced into and cut. This wire should be black/yellow. Solder a spade onto the wire and connect to the last terminal on your relay.
16. Replace your glove box and youre away.

DO NOT ATTEMPT TO WIRE STARTER SYSTEM DIRECTLY TO THE A/C SWITCH.IT WILL NOT HANDLE THE AMPAGE.YOU MUST USE A RELAY
I hope this is a help to you all and dont hesitate to ask me any questions.
 
i wouldnt mind hooking my AC switch up as my boost controller... I have the 3 stage one - Off, Econ and A/C ...

If that could be done it would be great!
 
G5R5OL said:
i wouldnt mind hooking my AC switch up as my boost controller... I have the 3 stage one - Off, Econ and A/C ...

If that could be done it would be great!
Sorry I cant help you there.I have no experience with boost controllers so it wouldn't be wise to give advice there. :wink:
 
G5R5OL said:
i wouldnt mind hooking my AC switch up as my boost controller... I have the 3 stage one - Off, Econ and A/C ...

If that could be done it would be great!

simple version:

off: standard boost
eco: + whatever boost
A/C: ++ whatever boost

requires 2, 2 way electronicly controlled valves, and 2 simple bleed valves a few relays and some wiring...

if you want i can make a schematic diagram if you really want it to work.... just pm me...
 
G5R5OL said:
there would surely have to be some way I could do it through the SM4 ??

if your sm4 was wired up to be able to controll boost off a switch or maybe a switch controlls different maps....... its possible
 
As an off-shoot of this, something like this can also be used as a simple immobilizer setup. You can use the relay to interrupt the power to the starter, meaning that to have to start the car, you have to turn the key and hold down a momentary switch for it to work.
 
rob323 said:
As an off-shoot of this, something like this can also be used as a simple immobilizer setup. You can use the relay to interrupt the power to the starter, meaning that to have to start the car, you have to turn the key and hold down a momentary switch for it to work.
That would be very easy to set up.Just run wire from the ignition to the switch and then to the relay. But using 2 hands to start up might be a little awkward :wink:
 
Muzz66 said:
rob323 said:
As an off-shoot of this, something like this can also be used as a simple immobilizer setup. You can use the relay to interrupt the power to the starter, meaning that to have to start the car, you have to turn the key and hold down a momentary switch for it to work.
That would be very easy to set up.Just run wire from the ignition to the switch and then to the relay. But using 2 hands to start up might be a little awkward :wink:

Especially for a one armed bandit :lol:
 
Just a little footnote.I have tweaked the circuitry inside the a/c switch so the green light comes on when ignition is energized, and when the starter is engaged, the red light comes on.I found I had to fiddle around a bit at night to find the button which was a pain.With a bit of thought I could have wired it up so when the motor is not running it glowed red and when the motor is running it glowed green but it seemed a bit too much work for what its worth. ;)
 

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