How to fit a rear swaybar?

[bennygsr]

best price I got quoted was $85 including GST. Definitely overpriced, but because they've got you buy the nuts, there is not much you can do.

 

[bennygsr]

HELP

Ok, so now since fitting my rear swaybar, I had experienced some "clonking" which is noticable when driving up my cobblestone laneway especially.

Initially I thought it was one of the endlinks. Since replacing the L rear endlink, I still have the clonking whilst driving, although when I pull very hard on the sway bar whilst under the car, it doesn't make a sound.
The only thing I can see that is rattling are the rear drive shafts which when moved sided to side give off the same rattle ? But I am sure these are meant to be like that.

Any ideas ?

 

[DOUGMO]

.

i would say end links.

also the upper rear control arms (evo)are rose jointed

(and i think gsr too)

on the outer end and can also cause a clunking noise

they are still available new from mits

 

[yelevo]

noise

If you have already replaced the left hand sway bar link and the noise still exist try removing the right hand altogether and take it for a short drive (it will not harm anything) if the noise is still there you can rule that out.T
To check the upper lateral link bushes which are the ones that go from above the rear hub to the body jack up the vehicle under the diff lower the on jack stands, now grab the top of the wheel and push firmly in and out put your hand on the bush and feel for movement.

 

[bennygsr]

Thanks Yelevo,

I disconnected the driver side endlink to my rear swaybar, and the clonking went away. Reconnected, and there it was again.

I will go about replacing this endlink as well: should have just ordered both at the same time.

 

[yelevo]

sway bar

Thats good to hear

 

[DOUGMO]

sorry to rehash an old thread, but did any of you guys have trouble getting the d bush brackets over the new witeline bushes on the rear sway bar. i have flared the bracket a little but the bush wont sit far enoough into the d bracket.

i had a little trouble fitting them to my skyline but it was not as bad as the evo.

 

[Richard]

No problems when I fitted mine the other day, went together like clockwork! This thread was quite a help then aswell!

 

[WRCVR4]

sorry to rehash an old thread, but did any of you guys have trouble getting the d bush brackets over the new witeline bushes on the rear sway bar. i have flared the bracket a little but the bush wont sit far enoough into the d bracket.

i had a little trouble fitting them to my skyline but it was not as bad as the evo.

It was a bitch job, but it went :lol:

 

[3zercrowd]

BUMP!!!
Found this tonight after a search.

Worth a Sticky!:thumbsup:

Links to this Tech as well!

http://www.4gtuner.com/site/showthread.php?t=13057&highlight=swaybar

 

[3zercrowd]

Ok, today I got to swapping my rear swaybar. Mimmo: your How to was extrememly valuable and a great insight into what I could expect. It did however take me about 6 hours total (far too long for anyone who is mechanically minded � which certainly isn't me!)


A few things I might add for anyone searching this HOW TO:


1. I undid ALL exhaust bolts, gave a lot more room, rather than just the one.


2. removing it is not too difficult: I don't have or no how to use an angle grinder, and just used wrenches for leverage to Squeeze the gap between the spare wheel well and the cross member. That worked ok, just doesn't look too good.


3. Putting the new one in was my nightmare: took me hours - until I realised I didn't have enough space at one point of the wheel well.


4. Some people have written how putting the second bush back on is difficult: For some reason this was very easy for me: I couldn't get the bush bracket out on the petrol hose side (drivers side), so did this side first, and the exhaust side next. No problems.


Apart from that I don't have much to add. Probably should have saved myself the effort, and paid the $65 quoted to have it fitted, but its a great step forward for my personal pride and the ability to rid myself of the second left hand I usually possess !!


Finally: The cornering change is FANTASTIC. Much tighter through ALL cornering so far (around my local area)


Special thanks to Mimmo once again !

For anybody else attempting this upgrade all you need to do is loosen the six bolts holding the rear crossmember in. You will only need to loosen them by about seven turns. Make sure you use jack stands and use a jack under the xmember to lower and lift.

Yeah on top of mimmos write up (minus cutting) Bennys ( Definately move the entire exhaust for me from the cat back) and adding Yelevo's bolts in crossmember removal (just used the jack handle to lever the gap wide enough for the 20mm swaybar and some, then it just stays down for ease of install)I dont have a lot to add to this except for using a jack (with wood to reach) under the crossmember or diff to aid in lowering and raising the cross member. The jack stands on max height setting under the car and the use of car ramps under the rear wheels when tightening up the sway bar at the end. This is to keep the suspension to its normal if you will, height setting or pressure that it would sit on the ground. I took the car up even further above the jack stands and wedged the ramps in and let the car down (with stands still underneath for safety) then tightened the whole swaybar assembly. Its actually mentioned in the instructions if you bother to read it.

sorry to rehash an old thread, but did any of you guys have trouble getting the d bush brackets over the new witeline bushes on the rear sway bar. i have flared the bracket a little but the bush wont sit far enoough into the d bracket.
i had a little trouble fitting them to my skyline but it was not as bad as the evo.

It was a bitch job, but it went :lol:

Funny enough I had trouble as well! :angry: shitty thing wouldnt line up! I had to use 2 vise clamps to line the bolt holes up then ease the bolt in. I actually wound a longer bolt in backwards through the back to line the D bracket up, then used the vice grips to hold it in place then put the bolt through the right way! It worked anyway!

As for performance B) Watch out on the road its a weapon of a thing now.

OH..... I also installed a whiteline rear strut brace as well B)
Pics below........quite a few....
OH and prizes for guessing what doesnt belong in a Mitsubishi garage!

 

[DIESTI]

Dane ill have to check the part number on my rear sway to see if its the same as yours.

 

[HYP04]

Ok, I just finished my whiteline 20mm rear sway bar install 35minutes.
Just a couple of install tips, grab yourself a piece of 28mm thick walled steam pipe, a hammer and vice to help slightly reshape/manipulate the D-bush bracket to accomodate the new 20mm bush. this will save the bush from being deforming from being tighnened down un evenly from incorrect shape.
Personally i found it quicker just to undo the fuel filler to give more room and it was the only way to get the RHS d-bush bracket out to reshape.
Also i didnt need to undo the cradle/subframe, Just hold my tongue in the right spot and pull.



Also a quick note to EVOIII owners double check you swaybar thickness. I found mine to be already 18mm. SO if anyone wants a 18mm swaybar $100 pick up from Brisbane early next month(Gatton Sprints) or pay for postage.

 

[htgsr]

Just finished fitting my new sway bar, in regards to the end links i got some from pedders when i got the sway bar, they have adjustable ones you just cut to length $99.00 for the pair, comes with instructions to get the right length. In total for the end links Whiteline 20mm HD sway bar and an anti lift kit was under $400 which i thought was pretty good. Here are some pics

 

[GSR_BOY]

Wish I had of found this post a few years ago.

 

[JET-65R]

Same here : )

 

[mymidlifecrisis]

Changed mine a little while ago. My method might seem a bit rough n ready. I had the car sat on the ground and gently jacked up underneath the wheel well and the new sway bar went through the gap easy as.

 

[lefty]

What's the part numbers for the end links? I can't figure it out on the parts diagram.

Also, if the Mitsu one's are too expensive, can't we just use some whiteline ones?

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KLC139
http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=W23180

Also, what do you guys recommend, 18mm or 20mm? (Coming from a gsr, which I believe is 15mm)

If the rear is too stiff, wouldn't it just mean the car won't lean much into a corner, meaning it would be easier to loose grip in the wet?
I think I need to get something "balanced" not just the stiffest, and I can't tell which is the "balanced" option, 18 or 20mm

Coming from 15mm, the 18mm is basically 2x the stiffness, and 20mm is 3x the stiffness, so yea, not sure what to choose.
http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/sway/sway.html

Thnx