Idle too high, FIAV/ISC blocked off. (track car)

4GTuner

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Bunbury, WA
Hi guys I have a track car (CC GSR) converted to a 4G63T from a Galant VR4, it wouldn't idle properly so after some research I removed the FIAV & the ISC and fitted a block off plate, but now it still idles high around 1500 rpm although it's not that big a deal on a race car I know it's not right and it bothers me.

Any ideas?
 
Is the throttle shut completely, have you done a boost leak test, this will show any vacuum leaks. Is tps correct and if you have idle switch is it switching correctly.
Without a isc, you can adjust biss, does this lower the idle?
 
Is the throttle shut completely, have you done a boost leak test, this will show any vacuum leaks. Is tps correct and if you have idle switch is it switching correctly.
Without a isc, you can adjust biss, does this lower the idle?

First I should say I'm new at this turbo crap, as my name suggests I'm use to carbys and dizzys LOL, but I' learning a lot lately.
Now for your questions.
1) Yes the throttle is completely shut.
2) No haven't done a boost leak test (wouldn't have a clue how ;) ), side note when idling the vacuum/boost gauge is at 20 vac (IN-Hg)
3) I'm fairly sure the TPS is correct, I've tested it with my ohm meter and set it to 0.7 at throttle closed.
4) Idle switch isn't connected.
5) Yes adjusting the BISS makes a difference, but if I set the idle at anywhere between 800 - 1500 rpm it stalls after revving it up letting the foot off.

Thanks for your response hope these answers clear thing up.
 
I don't have much experience with race cars, but I would run a isc, and probably a fiav as well.
The isc basically mirrors throttle position but controls idle as well.
There is a sticky about it in the evo1-3 section or the mitsi madness part.
I can't see how to control idle without a isc.

Boost testers are available from eBay and is the next tool on my list.
 
I'm sure you guys have seen this before, i made one, costs basically nothing......

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html
 
Thats normal. Is it factory ecu or after market? Iv had the same problem, when I look back now I should of just run an idle control solenoid of some description. You can mask it up with fuel and timing around and above idle. You run heaps of ignition timing from 500-800 and then back it right off progressively till 1500rpm. Timing makes a huge difference with idle speed, so every time the rpm drops down the high timing catch's it and stops it from stalling. Not ideal but definatly the best that can be achieved with out an idle control.
 

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