Installing cams, valve springs and retainers
- Thread starter matress
- Start date
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JSTYLE
I AM THEEE DYNO QUEEN!
matress said:
Head doesnt need to come off if you have the right tools.. timing belt does need to come off and its probably a good idea to replace the timing belt, engine seals etc..
Jon
good idea jon,
a trick is to pump compressed air into the cylinder which will keep the valves up and not allow them to drop when the old stuff is removed.
you'd also need the right tools for your head (we have honda stuff, not sure if its compatible)
what cams did you go for in the end?
or is it secret specs :lol:
DONT FORGET! if its the stuff i think your getting, you will need the valve stem seals also (the dual valve springs wont clear the standard valve stem seals, you need the smaller ones that they can also provide)
a trick is to pump compressed air into the cylinder which will keep the valves up and not allow them to drop when the old stuff is removed.
you'd also need the right tools for your head (we have honda stuff, not sure if its compatible)
what cams did you go for in the end?
or is it secret specs :lol:
DONT FORGET! if its the stuff i think your getting, you will need the valve stem seals also (the dual valve springs wont clear the standard valve stem seals, you need the smaller ones that they can also provide)
The Mitsu DOHC's need a special spring compressor that most shops don't sell....as I found out, even my damn Mitsu dealership didn't even have one :?
It needs to be adjustable at the valve head and the stem side. I prefer to do this stuff with the head off. That way you can be sure everything is good. And if you don;t have a good headgasket, you can put one on.
While it's all apart if you chose to do it with the head on, do your stem seals. And you may aswell do your timing belt if it is a lil old.
It needs to be adjustable at the valve head and the stem side. I prefer to do this stuff with the head off. That way you can be sure everything is good. And if you don;t have a good headgasket, you can put one on.
While it's all apart if you chose to do it with the head on, do your stem seals. And you may aswell do your timing belt if it is a lil old.
brisvr4
Member
Just throw some rope into the cylinder and hand crank the motor till it compresses against the valve. hehehe
Try this at your own risk!
Try this at your own risk!
rob323
Don't drive it, RALLY it!
That's your old gemini days coming back to you isn't it Brisvr4! :?
I'd be pulling the head off and rebuilding the head up properly. May as well clean up some ports, lap some valves, polish some valve faces/ stems and match port the intake manifold while your at it.
I'd be pulling the head off and rebuilding the head up properly. May as well clean up some ports, lap some valves, polish some valve faces/ stems and match port the intake manifold while your at it.
rob323
Don't drive it, RALLY it!
And you won't learn anything either.
when i did my valve stem seals etc i took the head off. As mentioned in the previous posts, you might as well do it properly and replace all the head seals, exhaust/inlet gaskets and regrind valve seats etc.
i had to use a tentioner tool to remove the valve springs, is it even possible to remove them without the tool?
-alex
i had to use a tentioner tool to remove the valve springs, is it even possible to remove them without the tool?
-alex
evopwr said:
Not the spring compressor, I was talking about the timing belt auto tensioner there is a special tool that helps retract it from the belt, was wondering what the reason for this was, other than making it easier.
WindeX said:
When I did Harrys Cams I just took the whole timing belt off, was heaps better in the end as if you do it the way I have seen install guides say with that tensioner tool if the balance shaft moves while the belt is loose you have to pull it all apart at the end any way to get it right, was hard enough to keep it all in line with the covers off let alone if you cant even see that the balance shaft has moved...
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