Is this normal for a turbo

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The waste gate actuator diaphragm could be shot, try borrow one of someone locally, easy to get on and off. It could be getting blow open.

Carefully try this.
Disconnect the boost pressure source to the waste gate actuator, and plug the line with a bolt, then EASE the throttle on, watching the boost gauge carefully. Don't floor it or you'll spike 30psi before you know it. And it will hit quick if it does.
Roll on throttle slowly a few times, take it slow, a bit more each time and see if you you can build say 10psi in the mid range quicker than it has been.
If it works look at you boost controller.
If it doesn't look at the turbo itself more.
Pull the intake pipe of the turbo snout and have a look, for oil and have the blades touched the walls or is there a lot of shaft play.
Normally if the bearing goes the oil seals go as well, and spits oil into the intake and exhaust in a smoke cloud, but Ive heard of cases where it hasn't spat oil into the exhaust side oil seal. so you don't see an smoke cloud.

Another ideas, could the cat collapsed and totally choked the exhaust up?
 
I do get some smoke out the back of exhaust. Put my finger on the turbo wheel. No shaft play but had a little greese
 
Plugged the vacc line to actuator and it didn't make any difference. :( could an exhaust manifold gasket be an issue. I e got alot of new build up around the ports. Also seams alot was comin from the gasket at the cat.
Tested car with dump pipe but had the cat off and made no difference so I don't think the cat is an issue
 
Will do. Just so you know I have a vacc line running from the jppe meeting a t piece with a vacc line from the final cooler pipe. The t price beaches out and goes straight to the actuator. That line from to the actuator I've then put ny boost controller in. Boost gauge I've ran from just before the boost controller (plugged another tpiece in) and also off the inlet minifold
 
post a pic but it sounds like you might be bleeding all of your boost off with all of the things attached to that hose.
the line from the j-pipe should join to the actuator and then t the boost controller off that
I wouldnt run the boost gauge from that line thats for sure
 
It's set up like this.
9921e1eb.jpg

Except i dont have the part 12421t. Instead the two vacc points from different points on the cooler are t'd together to bypass that 12521t. The continues straight to the actuator with my controller in the middle. :)
 
Alright. Currently. In first pi behind bov you can see the t piece. One runs to j pipe. Other to final cooler pipe that bov comes off and then the other goes to pic 2
1e27f600.jpg

Picture 2 you can see pic 1 going in. Clear tube is boost Guage. Blue goes to boost control and from there to waist gate.
a6f42de0.jpg


What in going to do is go j pipe to boost controller to actuator.
Then the other vacc point near bov pipe I'll run boost gauge strait off that. See if we have a difference
 
there is only one line that goes to the j pipe(intercooler pipe), the hose from the j pipe (if you bypassing the stock solenoid ) shold go to the actuator with the
boost controller tee'd off that.

on the standard boostv solenoid one line comes from the j pipe and the other from the intake pipe(which is really just a vent for the solenoid)

and you should not have your boost gauge off that line at all.

sounds to me like you have a lot of little things all at once
 
Here are some vids

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z323/lxanda/e1b82705.mp4

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z323/lxanda/8b328a11.mp4
 
9921e1eb.jpg

tee your boost guage in here.

then take you bov out of where it vent into and block the hole it came from(to prevent unmetered air getting in) then start the car and see if the valve closes when you blip the throttle it should be open at idle for plumb back (atleast mine is) and closed under acceleration if it dosn't close completly theres an issue and because you've bypassed the solenoid your effectivly running waste gate pressure which can start to openas it comes onto boost and slow the builld of pressure. plumb in the solenoid with the tee after that and maybe boost might come on sooner.

and on that note anyone got one of those solenoids spare and or a good condition exhaust housing for a td04 i think i have a sticky flapper.
 
I've re set it up. Jpipe to boost controller to actuator. Ten the other vaccine that came off the bov tpipe to throttlebody I just plumbed the boost Guage straight off that so it's totally seperate from the boost controller/actuator.
 
you should now see vacum on your guage at idle about -10 to -12 pound this should give an indication of when it starts to build presure as it brings the manifold out of vacume
 
NA it's before te manifold bro
Boost guage is currently running straight off pipe 11758q

Boost controller is running off j pipe then to actuator.

For the record I don't have a stock boost controller
 
the boost gauge needs to have a source from the manifolg gianni, same as the bov.
the bov should have a dedicated line from the manifold.
not ideal (but better than what you have now) is off the fuel pressure reg hose


edit: as khubner1 said
 
ok so lets get this right

jpipe -> manual boost controller -> wastegate actuator. that sounds fine
pipe 11758q large hole -> bov inlet -> bov outlet -> intake. inlet is botom of the valve furthest from the nipple and the side is exit to intake if this is how you have it fine
manifold behind -> bov vacum nipple. if that how it is fine
pipe 11758q small hole/nipple -> boost guage. idealy you want to block off that nipple and run boost guage from the manifold behind the TB
 
Yep. Pretty much it. I'll block off the 11758q nipple and run boost Guage from fuel pressure reg.

Did you watch the videos?
 

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