Hyper_Mike
Well-Known Member
Thats a pretty interesting read! I wonder what bigger filters would fit in the stock location then? Don't want to remotely mount the filter haha
Just bought a 1994 Mitsubishi RVR Super Sports Gear
- Thread starter brenn gunn
- Start date
Help Support 4GTuner:
penngwyne
Well-Known Member
They are an interesting little van
I have a 1997 Hyper sports gear R (HSGR) and I love it.
However there are some things I am a bit paranoid about.
Important stuff to check
When was the timing belt last replaced? (Both belts)
(Recommended every 90,000 Km I think, so you may be getting close.)
If you decide you need a timing belt there are other things you should do at the same time
The 4G63 is a non clearance motor so If timing belt lets go or slips a couple of teeth -
the engine stops making noises and gets very expensive
Part Numbers
.If you are into computers
Somewhere on this site is the Mitsubishi After Sales Service Application (ASA)
Valuable info on part numbers and models and types and build dates etc
If you go to a stealer they will look at you blankly (unless you have a really good spare parts person)
because your car doesn't exist!
(If you aren't into computers send me your VIN and I will pop back some info about your RVR
and some original part numbers if you want)
It's cheaper to import OEM parts from the USA or Japan than to buy from Mitsubishi here.
The difference in dates of manufacture on your compliance plate.
The later date is the year the car was altered to comply with ADRs when it was imported from Japan
I have a 1997 Hyper sports gear R (HSGR) and I love it.
However there are some things I am a bit paranoid about.
Important stuff to check
When was the timing belt last replaced? (Both belts)
(Recommended every 90,000 Km I think, so you may be getting close.)
If you decide you need a timing belt there are other things you should do at the same time
The 4G63 is a non clearance motor so If timing belt lets go or slips a couple of teeth -
the engine stops making noises and gets very expensive
Part Numbers
.If you are into computers
Somewhere on this site is the Mitsubishi After Sales Service Application (ASA)
Valuable info on part numbers and models and types and build dates etc
If you go to a stealer they will look at you blankly (unless you have a really good spare parts person)
because your car doesn't exist!
(If you aren't into computers send me your VIN and I will pop back some info about your RVR
and some original part numbers if you want)
It's cheaper to import OEM parts from the USA or Japan than to buy from Mitsubishi here.
The difference in dates of manufacture on your compliance plate.
The later date is the year the car was altered to comply with ADRs when it was imported from Japan
4piknup
master of none
Nothing fits my 93t. The dump pipe was touching on a 142a for me
brenn gunn
Active Member
I have no idea when the last services were done on this car, so I am playing it safe and will service the gearbox and engine and will service them again in a months time. I did buy that tranny service kit on evilbay but will defenitely get the one that Rockabilly recommended in a months time. Thanks Rockabilly. Is an interesting link jack of all, and has expanded my very small knowledge of this vehicle, thanks. I am genuinely interested in why people use the much smaller Z411 instead of the larger Z142A filter? But thanks Hyper_mike for the input. I have no idea when the timing belt was last changed so changing it asap has now gone on my to do list, thanks penngwyne. I came across this cool pdf on the w4a33 tranny. You guys prolly seen it a million times but I thought I would put a link up to it, in case it was new to anyone, http://www.atdsm.com/pdf/atoh3.pdf
prost
prost
rexhunta
Well-Known Member
Change both timing belts, A and B.
B is a small one hidden on the LHS down the bottom, comes off the crank and does the balance shaft.
B is a small one hidden on the LHS down the bottom, comes off the crank and does the balance shaft.
brenn gunn
Active Member
Hi guys.
I've got a few things done to it now and I'm up to the hard stuff.
When I first looked at this car and when it was first started, I immediately heard a "valve" noise. A 'mechanic' mate of mine who had come across this car and contacted me and urged me to look at it, told me that it was nothing but a blown exhaust manifold gasket. The owner had the same opinion and even supply a gasket. The gasket that was in it, was definitely blown and having no experience with any 4 cylinder 'sideways' engine, I doubted my own gut feeling, given my 'mechanic' friends experience.
I've now replaced the exhaust gasket and, of course, the sound persists.
What I hear when I start the car, is that it runs fine for a minute or 2. Then a slight tapping noise starts and icreases in volume for about 4 minutes, and then it stops and then starts again at a low volume and increases again ect,,, This continues until the engine has fully warmed up (temp gauge sits at half) then it stops.
I am guessing a sticky valve , but once the temp rises and parts expand , that it frees itself?
If so, what would be the best course of action ? replace that one valve? replace all the valves ? replace all the valves and guides? Are there kits readily available for this? I will be doing the timing belt at the same time. So where are the best places for those?
oh
and
RVR?
What is that?
A CRV you say?
Was that a VR?
I got a 94 RVR on file, is that the petrol model? 'yes'. Is that the turbo engine? 'yes' It's listed here but I have absolutely no sub listings for it!
Maybe I should go to these guys and say here is a list, update yours???
Oh. So why did I buy it? Cause I got in and drove it! lol My 'mechanic' mate was scrambling to put he's seatbelt on.
I've got a few things done to it now and I'm up to the hard stuff.
When I first looked at this car and when it was first started, I immediately heard a "valve" noise. A 'mechanic' mate of mine who had come across this car and contacted me and urged me to look at it, told me that it was nothing but a blown exhaust manifold gasket. The owner had the same opinion and even supply a gasket. The gasket that was in it, was definitely blown and having no experience with any 4 cylinder 'sideways' engine, I doubted my own gut feeling, given my 'mechanic' friends experience.
I've now replaced the exhaust gasket and, of course, the sound persists.
What I hear when I start the car, is that it runs fine for a minute or 2. Then a slight tapping noise starts and icreases in volume for about 4 minutes, and then it stops and then starts again at a low volume and increases again ect,,, This continues until the engine has fully warmed up (temp gauge sits at half) then it stops.
I am guessing a sticky valve , but once the temp rises and parts expand , that it frees itself?
If so, what would be the best course of action ? replace that one valve? replace all the valves ? replace all the valves and guides? Are there kits readily available for this? I will be doing the timing belt at the same time. So where are the best places for those?
oh
and
RVR?
What is that?
A CRV you say?
Was that a VR?
I got a 94 RVR on file, is that the petrol model? 'yes'. Is that the turbo engine? 'yes' It's listed here but I have absolutely no sub listings for it!
Maybe I should go to these guys and say here is a list, update yours???
Oh. So why did I buy it? Cause I got in and drove it! lol My 'mechanic' mate was scrambling to put he's seatbelt on.
The tappity noise could be sticky lifters, it's a common problem witht he 4g's. If you are keen you can clean them, or just buy the new ones, here is a good link from a guy in the US who sells them and his rep on the dsm forums is huge.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4G63-Eclipse-Talon-BRONZE-valve-guides-kit-DOHC-2-0L-/380941215352?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item58b1dda678&_uhb=1
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4G63-Eclipse-Talon-BRONZE-valve-guides-kit-DOHC-2-0L-/380941215352?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item58b1dda678&_uhb=1
Sounds like lifters. These are the cheapest I could find. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/16-Valve-Lifters-Lash-Adjuster-for-Kia-Hyundai-Mitsubishi-Eagle-4G61-4G63-4G64-/400482713641?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d3ea14029&_uhb=1
evo-gsr
Well-Known Member
Im going with lifters too. Extremely common.
brisvr4
Member
I've had the ones from engbldr in mine since 2005 with no tapping issues at all.
Fun job changing them though lol
Fun job changing them though lol
brenn gunn
Active Member
Hi guys,
Thanks for the input. I am gonna go with the lifter idea, and will replace them.
I would rather go with quality parts rather than cheeper.
So, what are a good brand for these?
Also, there is a guy on the net who has a few videos up on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M-s1r1JlKy8
Is this a good idea, to do it this way? What do you guys think?
Thanks for the input. I am gonna go with the lifter idea, and will replace them.
I would rather go with quality parts rather than cheeper.
So, what are a good brand for these?
Also, there is a guy on the net who has a few videos up on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M-s1r1JlKy8
Is this a good idea, to do it this way? What do you guys think?
brisvr4
Member
The ones in the link that deep south posted are fine mate. Any more expensive than that and your just wasting cash.
brenn gunn
Active Member
OK. I think I might be getting a little confused here?!! The link that deepsouth provided is for valve guides? And you guys are telling me that it is actually the lifters? that is the problem. ??
Or am I drinking to many Coopers Pale?
Or am I drinking to many Coopers Pale?
Hyper_Mike
Well-Known Member
Yeah I was confused at first also but I don't think that seller has a listing for lifters. Just send him a message asking for 3G (3mm) lifters to suit 1G/2G 4G63.brenn gunn said:
Yeah I've used these in many cars.. but I guess if you've just got one car a few extra $$ for peace of mind wouldn't hurt lolHyper_Mike said:
brenn gunn
Active Member
Thanks again guys. Your help is appreciated. I've ordered those lifters, so that's another job done, Still got the lower control arm bushes, shocks and maybe top strut mounts to do. Gonna use the tax return for the timing belts A/B plus the seals, bearings ect. Think i found the problem with the 'heating tranny'. One of the fans was unplugged! But since I plugged it back in , it shifts fine after the drive to work. but the weathers cold atm so I'll wait until it heats up again before I tick that box. As every thing gets done , I'm starting to like this little car more and more 
I got a quick couple of questions.
1) I'm guessing to set the compass up, you just face the car south and hit the 's' button?
2) Is the temp readout 'next to the compass' taken from the outside or inside? It was showing up at -1 here the other morning and it sure felt like that inside, but the bom was saying -2.5?
Thanks again
I got a quick couple of questions.
1) I'm guessing to set the compass up, you just face the car south and hit the 's' button?
2) Is the temp readout 'next to the compass' taken from the outside or inside? It was showing up at -1 here the other morning and it sure felt like that inside, but the bom was saying -2.5?
Thanks again
rexhunta
Well-Known Member
brenn gunn said:Thanks again guys. Your help is appreciated. I've ordered those lifters, so that's another job done, Still got the lower control arm bushes, shocks and maybe top strut mounts to do. Gonna use the tax return for the timing belts A/B plus the seals, bearings ect. Think i found the problem with the 'heating tranny'. One of the fans was unplugged! But since I plugged it back in , it shifts fine after the drive to work. but the weathers cold atm so I'll wait until it heats up again before I tick that box. As every thing gets done , I'm starting to like this little car more and more
I got a quick couple of questions.
1) I'm guessing to set the compass up, you just face the car south and hit the 's' button?
2) Is the temp readout 'next to the compass' taken from the outside or inside? It was showing up at -1 here the other morning and it sure felt like that inside, but the bom was saying -2.5?
Thanks again
To set the compass, go to a cul-de-sac, press S, it'll start blinking, then do 2 circles and it'll stop blinking and set itself.
The ambient temp is for outside.
CLuTZ
Diamonds are forever....
I'm still not sure why everyone always jumps on the "replace the lifters" band wagon unless you're planning on keeping the car forever! If you want the noise gone, use some Proma MBL8 every time you change oil, and the annoying lifter sound will disappear. You're better off paying $30 than $350 (unless of course you are changing them out yourself)
Hyper_Mike
Well-Known Member
Hey man, do you still sell this at all? I would just be chasing one bottle to try it outCLuTZ said:
Cheers, Mike
Similar threads
