Kando Dynamics Turbos

4GTuner

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It's not a case of ignoring advice, it's a case of trying to find out as much as I can. I work this way for everything I do.

Reality is, if I can get a TD05 Big16G from an RVR, it will make life easier... however if not, time to get a Kando. So your advice hasn't gone unheard, if anything thats what prompted me to do more research on them.
 
Bought a bit of kando equipment, as have my friends, which is where I heard about them.
They all run the big turbos, including the kits they sell, and all with zero dramas.
the occasional kink in a line from packaging or perhaps an incorrect item which was replaced, but nothing that warranted the turbos as garbage.

I myself will be buying there 18G td05 in time.
 
If you're going to upgrade Turbo Dan, I'd suggest you change some gearbox stuff first! And I'm very serious, or you'll find yourself in a world of bother!
 
The stock W4A33 has a lower rpm stall in the torque converter so if you're going up to a larger Turbo like Dan suggested it's usually a good idea to increase the stall. Plus, being that our gearboxes have a fairly mundane 2nd gear band (The Sports Gear N/A Auto suffers it in the W4A32 also) it's an idea to get a strengthened band. Whilst you're in there you may also want to do the clutch packs as you've got it open. Not to mention the strength of gear change needs to be addressed as your torque application of a larger turbo shifts so installing a shift kit is a bare minimum in all this. Even my old Sports Gear had a KL-175 "Transgo" Blue Box shift kit to help reduce the problems that the gearboxes suffer.

And for the record, yes, all these things are being done to mine before I upgrade... Most of the stuff has been done but I'm doing an overhaul in the next 2 weeks to rectify a small issue that I think I need to address.

hope that helps



Edit: also, if you intend on going to the drags Dan, a higher stall torque converter is a must.
 
Cheers for the insight Matt

I've spoken to Rockabilly briefly on having the gearbox beefed up by him, as mine is rather tired to begin with.
Car isn't so much about the drags as it is about wanting power later in therev range so rock climbing doesn't render me on my side, or in a tree from hitting boost. :lol: (Also adding a solenoid to open the actuator to turn boost off completely incase I do need revs.)

I take it though you are talking about if I was to use boost?
This car being a daily rider, I tend to keep it off boost, and the most it may see is 1-2 psi, MAYBE a spike to 10 on a lane change, but about it.

would you say do the box first and then the turbo? Or could I get away with a bit of play...
 
I couldn't say what is worth doing first, but I know what I am doing first.

I'm glad I'm doing mine... it's my daily work-horse, so I expect reliability and it to last. Nothing worse than breaking down one day before an interstate shoot... Like what happened in my old RVR.
 
MattL said:
I couldn't say what is worth doing first, but I know what I am doing first.

I'm glad I'm doing mine... it's my daily work-horse, so I expect reliability and it to last. Nothing worse than breaking down one day before an interstate shoot... Like what happened in my old RVR.
Click to expand...
Fair enough.

Well on the topic then, if you're worried about reliability with the turbo, then it would be the far least of your concerns, they are very good.
 
Reliability is a big part of my job, I do a fair amount of driving and it's why I service my car so often and why I replace anything that's broken as soon as I know.

Thanks Dan :)
 
I like my Auto, if I want to drive it manually, I switch it to Hold Mode and drive it manually then. Can't do that in a manual gearbox and change to auto.

Makes more sense this way.
 
Hey guys, I don't know whether this can be answered...

I have read that these "Kando Dynamics" Turbos are apparently reliable and all within Mitsubishi specs etc and appear to be quite cheap at $900.

Ultimately, how would these compare to say, a genuine Mitsubishi Big 16g in terms of performance (of it's parts) and longevity?

... or is this just a "how long is a piece of string" questions...
 
they generally are within spec, and if you buy of kando you shouldnt have any issues with it.

but saying that they are not as good as a true genuine one but are good value for money for sure
 
DOUGMO said:
they are not as good as a true genuine one but are good value for money for sure
Click to expand...

That is what I thought, although I was hopeful in finding more specific details as to why a genuine Mitsubishi Turbo was better and whether a $2000 outlay for a genuine item was feasible as opposed to a $900 "no frills", "no name" turbo...
 
You'll always pay for for genuine, or "the name" brand over generic. From all accounts Kando are very reputable & use sone genuine parts in their gear anyway.
 
They have been proven for at least the last 3 or 4 years! Maybe even longer???

The cast manifolds are especially good value too....

OEM big 16's have been proven to last 20+ years- so unless alot of you are planning to give your cars to your sons for their 21st (there's actually a couple out there) then you shouldn't have any dramasssss :D
 
to give an example the thrust bearingd the the kandos sont seem to be quite as good as genuine ones.
the castings of the turbine housings are not always perfect....

all in all I would go one over a genuine because the saving is so great, if it was a few hundred more for a gen I would go for that.

as dre said they have preoven to be pretty good for most people over the last few years,
 
Hey guys, I don't know whether this can be answered...

I have read that these "Kando Dynamics" Turbos are apparently reliable and all within Mitsubishi specs etc and appear to be quite cheap at $900.

Ultimately, how would these compare to say, a genuine Mitsubishi Big 16g in terms of performance (of it's parts) and longevity?

... or is this just a "how long is a piece of string" questions...
Click to expand...

The machining of parts appears quite good, but the question remains about the quality of the materials used compared to genuine MHI turbos.

In my case, I fitted genuine bearings as they are quite cheap, to the Kando turbo.
 

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