Larger intercooler - benefit?
- Thread starter EvoOne
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mistamidget
Well-Known Member
Not the same thing, but holding the intercooler sprayer switch in the GSR side mount gives another 10kmp/h when flat chat down the straight.
Not a big thing but clearly cooler is better at maximum performance levels.
Not a big thing but clearly cooler is better at maximum performance levels.
Advanced Jap
Well-Known Member
get yourself a evo 7 cooler modify the inlet and outlet, and that's all you will ever need
good for 10.5 135 mph
good for 10.5 135 mph
EV0300
Well-Known Member
If you have a bigger core that covers more of the front bumper I would think more area for cold air to flow over the.core
Hmmm.... there are pros and cons to larger intercoolers.
Sure they help with creating cooler intake temps but they also create a pressure drop between the turbo compressor outlet to the throttle body. Sometines a little, sometimes a lot depending on the icoola and piping length.
Ultimately no icoola and the shortest piping is optimum as long as you can keep air intake temps down or use the car on short bursts down the strip.
For a road car not seeing big amounts of boost and driven on hot days for hours would justify a bigger intercooler to help provide the intake with cooler denser air for a more efficient burn.
As mentioned stock evo size intercoolers are well designed and work good. Some of the larger aftermarket icoolas might look like candy but could drop pressure by as much as 2psi and not even cool as good as an oem evo icoola.
If you know of a good brand that has been tried and tested then go for it... otherwise you could just end up paying $$ for something worse than oem evo.
Sure they help with creating cooler intake temps but they also create a pressure drop between the turbo compressor outlet to the throttle body. Sometines a little, sometimes a lot depending on the icoola and piping length.
Ultimately no icoola and the shortest piping is optimum as long as you can keep air intake temps down or use the car on short bursts down the strip.
For a road car not seeing big amounts of boost and driven on hot days for hours would justify a bigger intercooler to help provide the intake with cooler denser air for a more efficient burn.
As mentioned stock evo size intercoolers are well designed and work good. Some of the larger aftermarket icoolas might look like candy but could drop pressure by as much as 2psi and not even cool as good as an oem evo icoola.
If you know of a good brand that has been tried and tested then go for it... otherwise you could just end up paying $$ for something worse than oem evo.
4piknup
master of none
W2a ftw.
Very low pressure drop. Very short piping.
Bad is that its heavy.
Google julian edgar and intercoolers. He has some wisdoms. He suggests that on the road they do little actual intercooling, mostly just acting as a heat soak.
Very low pressure drop. Very short piping.
Bad is that its heavy.
Google julian edgar and intercoolers. He has some wisdoms. He suggests that on the road they do little actual intercooling, mostly just acting as a heat soak.
Rockabilly
Well-Known Member
I use a 20A toggle switch in the cabin to earth the earth wire on the condensor A/C fan on
warm days & when I'm stuck in stop start traffic. It pulls a good stream of air through the
fins on the hot side of the I/C. The power draw from the fan is bugger all. Instead of the
I/C feeling warm to > cool to touch, it is cool to > cold to touch (while stopped & idling)
Ad a boost activated switch for water spray would make an Evo I/C plenty efficient.
Cheers
warm days & when I'm stuck in stop start traffic. It pulls a good stream of air through the
fins on the hot side of the I/C. The power draw from the fan is bugger all. Instead of the
I/C feeling warm to > cool to touch, it is cool to > cold to touch (while stopped & idling)
Ad a boost activated switch for water spray would make an Evo I/C plenty efficient.
Cheers
True, intercoolers do act as heat soaks to absorb heat too - its part of their function.jack of all said:
But for extended periods of driving in a road car or on a track, an air to air intercooler is much more reliable at cooling down quicker than a water to air system.
Basically air to air is cheaper to setup, lighter, reliable and doesn't need any maintenance. You can simply chuck it on at the front of the car and forget about it.
Water to air costs more to setup, heavier, takes up space with a radiator/tank and pump, and requires monitoring and maintenance.
The best thing about water to air is that you can make some pretty elaborate systems using dry ice etc to really lower your intake temps and tune a car to suit for maximum power without detonation - like on a drag car for instance over short periods of time. There's no way you could run the same tunes on an air to air system without saying bye-bye engine.
4piknup
master of none
Here is the article from julian. He is a guru. He used to be in zoom magazine ages ago (when they built the cyborg) and used to be in silicone chip magazine. He designed and tested most of the build yourself kits that are in jaycar still today.
Reading this will make you smarter. No hype, just test, change and retest.
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0527
Its actually the intro to a intelligent water sprayer setup
Reading this will make you smarter. No hype, just test, change and retest.
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0527
Its actually the intro to a intelligent water sprayer setup
Yeah he says:
In normal point-and-squirt urban driving, the intake air temp remained the same with the intercooler pump switched either on or off! Why? Because when the car was on boost, the heat was being dumped into the copper-tube-and-water heatsink, and when the car was off-boost, this heat was fed back into the (now cooler) intake air flow. Of course, if I was climbing a long hill (ie on boost for perhaps more than 15 seconds) the pump needed to be operating to give the lowest intake air temps. But even in that tiny car, 15 seconds of constant full boost would achieve over 160 km/h from a standstill...
The latter shows why water/air intercooling in road cars is so successful - but why most race cars use air/air intercooling. Water has a very high thermal mass, so easily absorbing the temp spikes caused by a road car's on/off boost driving. However, race-style boost (say on full boost for 70 per cent of the time) means that the system has to start working far more as a real-time heat transfer mechanism - which is best done by very large air/air intercoolers.
I can understand water soaking up the heat to a point in a road car, but I suppose it depends on how much heat you are generating and for how long (boost, air flow, heat soak from engine and exhaust etc).
Under bonnet temps can be a real bitch with a modified car using a water to air cooler. If you can fit it somewhere under our Lancer bonnets to work effectively for extended periods of time, even get some airflow to it then I suppose give it go to see how it works for you.
Our cars don't have much real estate under the bonnet to work with though compared to other cars. Seems sticking a big air to air icoola out the front is easier and gets it out of the way lol.
I know with my car after some driving and a few high boost squirts the cold side of the intercooler is much cooler than the hot side. I should take some temp readings one day to compare.
In normal point-and-squirt urban driving, the intake air temp remained the same with the intercooler pump switched either on or off! Why? Because when the car was on boost, the heat was being dumped into the copper-tube-and-water heatsink, and when the car was off-boost, this heat was fed back into the (now cooler) intake air flow. Of course, if I was climbing a long hill (ie on boost for perhaps more than 15 seconds) the pump needed to be operating to give the lowest intake air temps. But even in that tiny car, 15 seconds of constant full boost would achieve over 160 km/h from a standstill...
The latter shows why water/air intercooling in road cars is so successful - but why most race cars use air/air intercooling. Water has a very high thermal mass, so easily absorbing the temp spikes caused by a road car's on/off boost driving. However, race-style boost (say on full boost for 70 per cent of the time) means that the system has to start working far more as a real-time heat transfer mechanism - which is best done by very large air/air intercoolers.
I can understand water soaking up the heat to a point in a road car, but I suppose it depends on how much heat you are generating and for how long (boost, air flow, heat soak from engine and exhaust etc).
Under bonnet temps can be a real bitch with a modified car using a water to air cooler. If you can fit it somewhere under our Lancer bonnets to work effectively for extended periods of time, even get some airflow to it then I suppose give it go to see how it works for you.
Our cars don't have much real estate under the bonnet to work with though compared to other cars. Seems sticking a big air to air icoola out the front is easier and gets it out of the way lol.
I know with my car after some driving and a few high boost squirts the cold side of the intercooler is much cooler than the hot side. I should take some temp readings one day to compare.
khubner1
Moderator
i want that pcb the kit looks like a bran that jaycar stock but it's not in their online catalogue might go in and see if they have it in their store catalogue
4piknup
master of none
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6082612-FS-Autospeed-Labtronics-Intelligent-Intercooler-Water-Spray-Mister
One here a couple of months ago for $90
Dont think its at jaycar. Its too new (less than 15yo)
It would be at the autospeed shop, but it seems broken at moment
One here a couple of months ago for $90
Dont think its at jaycar. Its too new (less than 15yo)
It would be at the autospeed shop, but it seems broken at moment
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