brisvr4
Member
Hi guys,
I decided to see what could be done to seal up my leaking yoke once and for all without having to fork out the $44 for the yoke and uni + $60US shipping for a factory revised yoke and uni joint shipped to me from Extremepsi! :thumbsup:
I found that with the other yoke that is one the car already (and leaking) that just smearing liquid steel on the back of the yoke doesn't seem to be a long term solution as it only lasted 2 years or so...
This is what I came up with...
I found that once you remove the metal plug that Mitsubishi saw fit to use to seal the yoke the first time it is a fairly simple case of sealing everything up to be safe then driving a 28mm welsh plug in.
The 28mm plug is pretty much a perfect fit for the inside of the yoke and there is a nice flat edge for it to seal up against.
This looks a lot like what Mitsubishi seems to have come up with for their revised yoke.
I made sure everything was spotless in there then I ran a decent bead of silicone round the top of the splines in the yoke and i spread more onto the dome of the welsh plug. This way when the plug is driven in there are no small gaps made by the splines allowing any oil to leak.
Once I had driven in the welsh plug and made sure it was seated nicely I cleaned off the top of it and coated the edge where it joins the yoke with Liquid steel ( cold weld actually ).
This was to be doubly certain that it won't leak!!
Of course if it does end up leaking (I doubt it highly) then I will buckle and spend $100 on a Mitsubishi yoke!
Ok, on to the procedure with pics...
1. Use a socket extension to drive out the old metal plug
2. This is the back of the yoke with the plug removed
3. This is the crap metal plug and the new shiny brass welsh plug!
4. Welsh plug just prior to being pounded to death!
5. Welsh plug driven home into the yoke.
6. Outside of welsh plug safety sealed with Cold weld.
7. Inside of yoke showing where I sealed the end with silicone.
I decided to see what could be done to seal up my leaking yoke once and for all without having to fork out the $44 for the yoke and uni + $60US shipping for a factory revised yoke and uni joint shipped to me from Extremepsi! :thumbsup:
I found that with the other yoke that is one the car already (and leaking) that just smearing liquid steel on the back of the yoke doesn't seem to be a long term solution as it only lasted 2 years or so...
This is what I came up with...
I found that once you remove the metal plug that Mitsubishi saw fit to use to seal the yoke the first time it is a fairly simple case of sealing everything up to be safe then driving a 28mm welsh plug in.
The 28mm plug is pretty much a perfect fit for the inside of the yoke and there is a nice flat edge for it to seal up against.
This looks a lot like what Mitsubishi seems to have come up with for their revised yoke.
I made sure everything was spotless in there then I ran a decent bead of silicone round the top of the splines in the yoke and i spread more onto the dome of the welsh plug. This way when the plug is driven in there are no small gaps made by the splines allowing any oil to leak.
Once I had driven in the welsh plug and made sure it was seated nicely I cleaned off the top of it and coated the edge where it joins the yoke with Liquid steel ( cold weld actually ).
This was to be doubly certain that it won't leak!!
Of course if it does end up leaking (I doubt it highly) then I will buckle and spend $100 on a Mitsubishi yoke!
Ok, on to the procedure with pics...
1. Use a socket extension to drive out the old metal plug
2. This is the back of the yoke with the plug removed
3. This is the crap metal plug and the new shiny brass welsh plug!
4. Welsh plug just prior to being pounded to death!
5. Welsh plug driven home into the yoke.
6. Outside of welsh plug safety sealed with Cold weld.
7. Inside of yoke showing where I sealed the end with silicone.