Motorsport wheel alignment, who has some suggestions?

[Ryan38]

Hey fellas, just finishing off my gsr track hack project and wanted to see if anyone had some good suggestions when it comes to wheel alignment for track work.

The car has no major suspension upgrades apart from coilovers which still run the standard suspension mounting top plates.

Cheers

Sean

 

[GeoKez]

This is what I set my car up with. will be adding more - camber to the rear once I get it back together with some more adjustable bits.

hmmm, little picture. Try here

http://www.4gtuner.com/topic/22164-looking-for-a-4g63-to-rebuild/page-11

 

[EVO-00X]

There's a thread in here somewhere with GSR settings for track use from Whiteline suspension? Hang on I'll add some pics....

OK, here's a couple of pages from a magazine many years ago where Whiteline played with a GSR suspension kit for track use.
Basically first thing to do is add as much caster as you can by fitting Whiteline anti lift/ caster kit KCA317X bushes for the front lower control arms.
Then you can add a stiffer rear swaybar from Whiteline. Part number is BMR56 for 18mm heavy duty or BMR56X for the 20mm Extra heavy duty rear. Don't worry about the front swaybar, its already plenty thick!!!
You should get some adjustable camber tops. The oem tops wont give you the camber adjustments you need to make a big difference. Ive seen the camber bolts some company's use on the base of the struts/hub assembly, but whenever you undo the 2 bolts holding the hub on, it sets your camber out of alignment again!!

Then look at the attached pdf document showing wheel alignment specs from Whiteline (table at the bottom of the pdf document)

You'd probably want to try the touring spec first before going straight to the Sport spec. Depends what parts you end up using.

 

[DOUGMO]

so many factors, you can have a base to start with but it depends so much on how much tyre grip you have.

as I have gone up in tyre size I have had to make the alignment more aggressive to cope.

I now run near -4 camber at the front, -2 on the rear
zero toe front and 0.5mm toe in on the rear
9 degrees of castor


I started at a lot less than that. castor is king though on our cars

 

[Ryan38]

Thanks guys, I want to dial in a base and work from there. Your help is always appreciated!

 

[DOUGMO]

what tyres will you run?

 

[Ryan38]

16 toyo proxie r1r

 

[DOUGMO]

try 1mm total toe in front and rear, -2 front -1 rear and as much castor as you can as a start

 

[EVO-00X]

George isn't 1mm total toe = 0.5mm left and 0.5mm right?
Would it make the rear more twitchier if it was zero toe up front and 2mm out back?

 

[4piknup]

As said above castor is king. Caster gives you camber on turns but keeps tyres flat on the road when straight ahead for power-on grip.
Big fat rear sway bar. As big as your balls will allow. Because as the back bar gets bigger it will become more of a snap oversteer car. So if you back off mid corner it will spin around and point the other way. It will be neutral if you keep on it tho.

 

[DOUGMO]

George isn't 1mm total toe = 0.5mm left and 0.5mm right?
Would it make the rear more twitchier if it was zero toe up front and 2mm out back?

yes 1mm total is 0.5 each side. I have never run to out on the rear and I don't currently even run a rear sway bar(im about to though). If you have the castor and turn inm it negates the need for a big rear bar and keeps the car stable.

If you cant get a lot of castor on the front a rear sway bar is the next best thing

 

[Ryan38]

Good advice guys, went and bought a Superpro anti lift kit for the front control arms to assist with extra caster, will fit it and get alignment done next week.

Cheers

 

[SKMsport]

1mm Toe out total on the front.
3mm Toe in total on the Rear.

The toe out on the front gives a nice feeling on initial turn in to a corner.

I have found this set up to be very good on Tarmac and gravel.

Camber could probably go -3-3.5 front
Rear -1.75

Where about's are your control arms sitting at the moment?
As in regards to the difference of height from the inner mounting spot and the outer ball joint.

 

[Ryan38]

1mm Toe out total on the front.
3mm Toe in total on the Rear.

The toe out on the front gives a nice feeling on initial turn in to a corner.

I have found this set up to be very good on Tarmac and gravel.

Camber could probably go -3-3.5 front
Rear -1.75

Where about's are your control arms sitting at the moment?
As in regards to the difference of height from the inner mounting spot and the outer ball joint.

Thanks for the input, it sounds like your on the money, control arms are fairly level I have height adjustable coilovers and haven't gone to low. I just spent 6 months in Tassie living down south of Huonville, should have caught up for a beer! You doing targa tas this year?

 

[SKMsport]

Yeah nice. Around dead level on the front is perfect.
Ah nice, its a good spot down there. It's a small world! I won't be unfortunately, Nothing against Targa but for the money there are a lot better events out there. Targa wrest point was a good event, nice and compact. Car is back in gravel spec for now.