need advice on starting a

[brownsound79]

the car been sleeping/hibernating in my garage for 2 years.. (since 2013) ..
tyres were flat out... battery dead.. not to mention the wonderfull smell of ol gas... phewww..
today...
-got a new battery.. 10liter of fresh RON97 .. and an oil change..
...
any parts that i should change

 

[EVO-00X]

Check the spark plug condition and gaps just to be sure they are nice and clean for its first startup in a while.
Disconnect the crank angle sensor and turn the key for a while letting the engine crank over without spark (say about 30 seconds for 3 x 10 second runs).
Let the internal rotating assemblies, cams, lifters etc get some oil pressure and lubrication up first. Check the fuel pressure if you have a gauge on the FPR as well.
Once you've done with the pre-start stuff, plug the CAS back in and fire it up.

 

[EVO-00X]

Oh and run to normal temperature, let it cool down and then dump the oil and oil filter for replacement.

 

[Ross Cox]

Check the spark plug condition and gaps just to be sure they are nice and clean for its first startup in a while.
Disconnect the crank angle sensor and turn the key for a while letting the engine crank over without spark (say about 30 seconds for 3 x 10 second runs).
Let the internal rotating assemblies, cams, lifters etc get some oil pressure and lubrication up first. Check the fuel pressure if you have a gauge on the FPR as well.
Once you've done with the pre-start stuff, plug the CAS back in and fire it up.

Don't agree with the cranking. He would be much better starting the car. You do not get full pressure cold cranking an engine. IMHO. My rally engine I rebuilt in 2013, has done maybe 1500 klms of competition, starts from cold or hot with no exhaust smoke fumes at all. I started it straight away from second build, spun a bearing from first build, and drove it easy for about 30 klms, then drove it like I stole it, two oil changes in first 150klms. Penrite run-in oil first up and the Penrite 10/10ths 10-W40 since then. Cheers
Ross

 

[4piknup]

You could crank it while plugs are out then. At least it spins a bit quicker, and they coming out anyway. That will flush a little bit of the old fuel back to the tank too.

Its only 2 yrs tho. Crank it baby

 

[EVO-00X]

The cold cranking gets the crank lapping into the oil pan and oil back up into the head to lubricate the valvetrain and lifters after its been sitting dormant for 2 years.

I suggest leaving the spark plugs in Jack. You want compression to help free up piston rings that may be crudded up. It also helps lube rubber seals again or if they have degraded you might be able to spot a leak after you've done with cold cranking and conduct your final inspection before firing the motor up. The same goes for any of the rubber brake, water, fuel and vacuum hoses and belts too. They could have dried up and cracked or split in the meantime . Also do not forget to check the radiator and heater core for leaks. As coolant degrades it can corrode the cores and begin to leak. Check those too after cold cranking and also after you actually fire it up. Watch the temperature gauge and keep an eye on the rubber hoses whilst the motor warms up and pressure builds up in the cooling system. Let it reach normal temps and feel the top radiator hose to see if the thermostat has opened and is allowing water to pass through it, as it too could have seized after sitting around for a long time. Your thermo fans should cut in and out too once you reach normal to slightly more than normal temps. Then I would shut it down and replace the fluids.

There is no need to be impatient and risk damaging an engine by firing it up immediately after its been sitting dormant for 2 years. If you've waited 2 years, 30 seconds worth of cold cranking and 5 minutes worth of precautionary sanity checks isn't going to kill you.

I would also recommend looking at your brake fluid to ensure it hasn't absorbed moisture and gone milky or brown. I learned a valuable lesson about 7-8 years ago when getting my wifes car on the road after it sat dormant for a few years. Engine etc checked out OK and I took the car for a drive down my street, lightly came to a stop, turned around and headed for back home. As I got near to the front of my house I stomped on the brake pedal hard at 40kmh to check its braking performance. Then bang! the brake pedal went straight to the floor and I had no brakes!!. The rubber brake hoses up front had degraded over time and one popped under the pressure of hard braking at 40kmh!! I was glad that it happened to me then and there rather than with my wife behind the steering wheel with the kids in the car. I lost all faith in the oem rubber brake lines on our 20 year old cars after that. If you haven't already replaced them with new brake hoses or aftermarket braded lines (Goodridge for example), then do yourself a favour and place a high priority on doing so ASAP.

 

[brownsound79]

at first it wont even crank at all...manual turning crank.. and .. there she goes... idle +/-750®
no hesitation or stall...
but...
lot of white smoke.. when rev down..
valve seal maybe..??

almost 3 years... wtf.. [emoji1] [emoji2]

 

[Ross Cox]

White smoke -coolant maybe? Does the smoke smell?

 

[EVO-00X]

White smoke is water related most of the time as Ross said. You need to determine if its white, blue or black smoke and smell it to see if its normal smell, burning oil smell or rich fuel smell.
Maybe you got a bit eager when you washed the car and hosed some water into the exhaust system/ muffler

 

[brownsound79]

lol.. you got me there..
anyway.. the intercooler pipe were flooded with oil..
except for today when i try to drive it..
the clutch were gone.. no resistance at all.. demmm..
waiting for that tow truck to come...