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onionevo

Active Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2010
Messages
28
Location
Melbourne
Hi guys,

New to the Evo world (GSR rather). Mate's recently purchased a evo III GSR mock (original CE lancer with engine conver with FRP bits). Basically, has problems, and would like to hear from the experts with the 4G93T engine (1.8L).

Modifications include:
- AVC-R - No setting.
- SAFC-II - No setting.
- Atmo Turbosmart BOV.
- TRUST FMIC.
- TRUST OIL COOLER w/relocation kit.
- 3" HKS dump-back exhaust.

Problems:
- What could be causing white puffs of smoke on LOAD? Doesn't really smoke on idle, only when LOAD is applied.
* I have changed oil/filter, spark plugs, filled with premium 98octane. Still no luck yet.
- Rough-ish idle after a drive, stays around 1100rpm.
* I have tried to adjust the idle valve adjustment screw, but it does nothing so I'm assuming this has something to do with the SAFC-II? I have reset ALL settings on the piggy backs.
- What is the standard BOOST for this engine? 7psi?
- Are GSR brakes, all disc brakes all the way round?
- Fuel gauge not working, is there a fuse I can check? An EL DASH is installed, but it is the 100% GSR dashpod, it has the BOOST indicator light etc.
- Clutch makes a whirring noise on idle, when depressed it goes away? I'm thinking it's the thrust bearing?

Main concern for me at the moment is the smoking, I need to get rid of that before other things can be cleaned up. Hopefully someone can pin point the exact problem, and maybe point me in the right direction of getting that fixed. I'm thinking it's the stem seals being worned, but I have read that common for these bastards to have worn/cracked piston valves? :(

WTB:
- EVO3 front bar wanted if anyone has one lying around. Cause the one I got is broken and is GAY.

Thanks for your help in advanced, any replies will be greatly appreciated!

Onionzzzz.
 
Assuming that you mean cc lancer.

White smoke insinuates water - possibly a head gasket. If it were valve stem seals, it would be puffs of black smoke after the car had been idling for some time.
The wastegate opens at 78kpa (11.3 psi)
Yes the gsr has disc brakes all around. The Evo has a larger twin-pot caliper up front (276mm disc). Rear brakes are identical
Could be the sender unit which is causing the gauge to not work

Also, is it a genuine front bumper or a fiberglass copy - there is a difference in how the align with the guards (e.g. genuine evo guards are flared, hence you will need to match a genuine evo front bumper with genuine evo guards, or a fiberglass copy bumper with gsr guards).
 
:O Head gasket? There definately isn't any water in the oil or anything like that, and wouldn't a blown headgasket give you decrease in power dramatically? There are a few blown gaskets which I will replace this week usual exhaust - manifold/turbo in/out.. The car still drives pretty well, doesn't smoke on boost, nor idle. Only on load ie. doing 40 on gear 4 and WOT the accel... especially around the 2,000rpm mark, but when boost kicks in, the smoke stops!

I'm going to block off the BOV and take it for a drive and see how that improves it. Any other ideas?

Fuel sender is really hard to become faulty I think, because i don't think it's got any signal at all, must've been a disconnection behind the pod. I'll double check this this weekend.

Front bar is FRP, so it's probably the copy E3 front bar, as the fenders definately aren't wider.. Anyone know where I could get one?

Peace.
 
white puffs from the exhaust is usually the oil seals going on the exhaust side of the turbo.
rough idle when hot usually means air leak,example cold start has extra fuel to compensate for this but when hot the idle is lean ,so an airleak will make it a lot leaner.
 
It all depends on where the headgasket is failing - I know on my 4g93t there was a hairline crack in between one of the water galleries and cylinder #1. Exact same symptoms as yourself, car drove fine and on WOT i let out a plume of white smoke. The cylinder was from memory about 15psi down on the compression test.

carmate.com will have one of the better priced E3 front bars.
 
So best bet to get a compression test done! Thanks for the heads up, will try to pin point the problem over the weekend! Would a leaky BOV cause such symptoms as well? I'm thinking that the BOV does feel a bit funny, sometimes it would open properly (WOOSH) sometimes it'll just flutter (not opening)..

Any other test that I can do and knock over over the weekend that could determine the problem?

Thanks for the replies so far!

Peace.
 
Leaky BOV, or any leaking vacuum hoses, would cause rough idle, and might also be responsible for the smoke.

Like you said, get a compression test, and also get some soapy water in a spray bottle and spray the vac hoses, looking for any signs of air leaks.

Remove or block off the BOV completely and see if the engine performs any differently under load.
 
I have checked the spark plugs, they were fine.. All dry, and slightly carbon deposited, but nothing out of the ordinary.. Besides I put brand new ones in!

I will get rid of the BOV and block it all off tonight to see whether that makes a difference, as it seems that everything is pointing back at it! I will try to soapy water leak detection method tonight as well..

Compression test, basically remove a coil pack, screw into plug well, and crank to test for pressure? How would you do it?

Peace.
 
I've done the compression test.. Don't know if I did it with full accuracy as Im not sure whether what would affect the reading.. Used a Supercheap Compression gauge (screw type).

1-4 (from left to right from the front) - 160 160 163 156

Does this remind you of the hairline crack in the gasket from the 4th cylinder? I also blocked off the BOV and removed the TCC WORK BOV, and it runs slightly better.. Didn't notice as much smoke today after driving it, but it's definately still there..

Any ideas guys? I will change the gaskets (as i think this may affect the smoke also) tommorow and see how much better it is, performance wise also..

I've also noticed now that the rocker gasket probably needs replacement, as I see wet oil seeping through the 4th cylinder area..

Peace.
 
So the smoking isn't headgasket or piston valve related right? I removed the BOV, next step is to replace all the blown turbo gaskets. Turbo seals should be ok, because it's not blowing BLACK smoke am I correct in saying this?

What else could it be then! My mates theory, the exhaust leaks cause the engine to have incorrect readings of oxygen, fuel/spark doesn't mix correctly, causing extra fuel to be burnt?

Would an O2 sensor cause such problems as well?

I'm starting to run out of ideasss! ):

Peace.
 
I am in the process of removing the turbo/manifold.. but for some reason... i can't take the manifold out, because of the bracket on the right side of the engine that holds all the belts etc... Can I remove this or loosen it so i can wedge in/out the manifold? The manifold's edge is just hitting the bracket, not allowing it to be pulled out...

And that bracket thing is hard hard hard metal, so I can't really get a chisel and try to hammer it slightly... Somebody help me please!!!

Peace.
 
onionevo said:
I am in the process of removing the turbo/manifold.. but for some reason... i can't take the manifold out, because of the bracket on the right side of the engine that holds all the belts etc... Can I remove this or loosen it so i can wedge in/out the manifold? The manifold's edge is just hitting the bracket, not allowing it to be pulled out...

And that bracket thing is hard hard hard metal, so I can't really get a chisel and try to hammer it slightly... Somebody help me please!!!

Peace.

pictures are worth a thousand words they say............and it would be easier to understand the problem in this case
 
ummm, actually oil leaks and stuff are blue smoke.
black smoke is running very rich.
white smoke is water.
 
So what do you have in mind that is causing this smoking issue? @__@ I will try to get a photo of the manifold stuck problem later today, but it's the power steering pump's bracket that is blocking it probably by 1cm, not letting the manifold clear!

I mean, surely people have a way around this when they change their gaskets etc right? I just don't know why mitsi designed it like this, it's even hard to fit 2 nuts in to remove the stud with such bad clearance..

Other wise, the turbo/manifold removal was alot easier than i thought lol (Yes everything is just hanging atm)

Peace.
 
i would let the engine get fully cooled down, start it give it a reasonable play say for 40 seconds ie. a few revs turn it off and see if the radiator has preassurised. even just a little would possibly indicate a hairline crack in engine or head gasket.
not a garentee but its cheaper to check that than pulling bit of the motor.
 
Since i'm going back to this and trying to fix the issues with the evo, thought I'd update everyone..

I finally managed to remove the manifold/turbo from the engine bay.. I ended up drilling the manifold slightly enough to wedge it from the PS bracket, in which I failed to remove because of a stripped bolt...... Anyway, on the way wedging it out I managed to slip and slightly kink the radiator... So if anyone has a spare radiator lying around, let me know and i'll take it off your hands..

Managed to also break a stud (the very f*n stud that is on the right side where it's hard to access due to the same f*n bracket) Am planning to hook it all back up with the new gaskets (manifold/inlet/outlet) and see whether it imrpoves the initial smoking issue (had all 3 gaskets blown to bits).

Any advice of what else I should do/check before I put it all back together? I've since, cleaned the AFM, replaced the o2 sensor, changed spark plugs, changed oil, removed BOV, disconnected all SAFCII gear, flushed coolant, cleaned the TB, grinded the stock manifold so it can slip in the way IT SHOULD. Oh I bought a new battery, since it died...

Will hopefully get it running again over the weekend.

Peace.
 

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