New clutch what to get

[WindeX]

Hey guys,

I am up for a new clutch as my current(stock) one is toast. My car(Evo 3) is running about 190awkw and it runs very well. I drive my car daily at times so it needs to handle traffic as its not a track car I am considering just replacing it with a Exedy HD item but not sure it will handle the power, I think I should avoid going with something with too high a clamping force, as I want to avoid any chances of crank walk. I dont think I will push more than 220 through it as to get more I would need to do some internal work. Are there any other options I should consider from the US?

Cheers!

 

[DOUGMO]

Exedy sports organic will do the trick for that power , cheap locally from the right place

 

[BMGTZ]

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/280795639820?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

worth a look?

 

[WindeX]

Exedy sports organic will do the trick for that power , cheap locally from the right place

Haha, thought I'd need someone to fit it too mate!

 

[EVO-00X]

The Exedy HD brass cushion button is good, but they are really heavy on the pedal. Not a good idea if you have an Evo or RVR block (crankwalk).
My brother EVL20T has been using one and it walked in around 40k use after a full engine rebuild with new internals including fully checked and balanced crank.
And the Exedy wasnt even in there for that whole time - he had a different lighter clutch in beforehand.

 

[4piknup]

I don't like button clutches. The buttons don't wear out, the friction material becomes the flywheel and the pressure plate.

 

[DOUGMO]

Maybe nothing to do with the clutch then Rob?

 

[ENGINR]

Speak to Jim Berry - he'll set you straight on the causes of "crankwalk" (if you've spoken to him you'll know why I've put "crankwalk" in quotations!)

 

[Ian91]

I got a clutch for my gsr made by Jim berry, my mechanic ordered it when mine needed replacing, now my car is only standard but he should be able to make something up, it feels good to depress, nice and firm but not too firm wasn't overly expensive either

 

[EVOCPE]

Speak to Jim Berry - he'll set you straight on the causes of "crankwalk" (if you've spoken to him you'll know why I've put "crankwalk" in quotations!)

I think my problem was starting the car with my foot on the clutch, mainly because i was so used to doing it in my work van for the past few years, they need the clutch disengaged to start

 

[Ian91]

I think my problem was starting the car with my foot on the clutch, mainly because i was so used to doing it in my work van for the past few years, they need the clutch disengaged to start

Is it bad to start a car with your foot on the clutch?

 

[oggy]

I currently have a xtreme 6 puck button in mine with the heavier pressure plate option. I would not recommend that for a daily, it's a fair bitch to drive haha! but you do get used to it.

I had a excedy cushion button in my last car and that was much easier to drive than this, it was fine as a daily

 

[Craig_CD9A]

I run a Centerforce dual-friction clutch from the US. Great clutch that doesn't slip and has a nice and light pedal.

 

[WindeX]

Thanks for the tips guys, going to do some more browsing as there are a few names I had not considered there. I never tend to have my foot on the clutch when starting or sitting at the lights only when actually changing gears.

Care to share with us what Jim Berry thinks of the reported crankwalking issues associated with high clamping force?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CTF-DF536010/
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/ecldrivetrain.htm

Both the above links have some details on the Centerforce clutch and the pressure plate etc.

 

[ENGINR]

Care to share with us what Jim Berry thinks of the reported crankwalking issues associated with high clamping force?

It wasn't really associated with high clamping force - he went into quite a bit of detail around the fundamental design of a clutch and gearbox arrangement. It has more to do with crank misalignment and an unsupported length of input shaft. He certainly knows what he's talking about though.

In all seriousness though Andrew - I'd speak to Jim about a clutch for your EVO3. The clutch in my Coupe is a Jim Berry one that Andrew Vibert had him make for it years and years ago when it was a road car. It supported 220kw atw last tune, but I just think this new turbo setup has proven too much for it and it's no longer upto the new role the car has.

 

[EVO-00X]

My clutch is a Spec Stage 3+ from the US.
Almost stock like pedal feel and bites great. Nowhere near as hard to depress the pedal as an Exedy hd.
The Spec never slipped at all during my 10 runs down the strip earlier in the year and they handle heat well.
It has a sprung fully faced clutch disc and is slippable too.
Ive done 4000km with it and no complaints other than I can hear a louder drivetrain 'almost dogbox like" noise through it. Will see if the noise is clutch related or gearbox related when I swap to my rebuilt gearboxes soon.
Theyve got some mixed reviews but mine went in with new flywheel and engine setup and no complaints thus far.

 

[7zark7]

I agree with George; Exedy Sports Organic FTW
I use these in all my cars because I think the clutch should be the weakest link.
Soooo much cheaper to replace a clutch assembly than a whole gear-box/drive-train if you do get it wrong

 

[EV0300]

Is it bad to start a car with your foot on the clutch?

yes it is very bad.

I had a sports organic in before i change to the HD push button because the clutch destroyed itself, i must say i dont like the HD too much its noisy but it holds pretty well ive only had it in for about 4-5k though.

 

[bazeng]

My experiences on the vr4:

1. Exedy hd, good but died very quickly after a couple of big launches. Make sure you let it cool down.
2. Exedy sports, simply a heavier version of the hd (same disc, heavier pressure plate). Took me a bit to get used to the heavy pressure plate (noob manual driver). Burnt out the disc after a couple of 13 second runs/160aw kw /1.8 60s. Once again let it cool.
3. Fidanza alloy flywheel/direct clutch carbonic single plate with heavy exedy modified preassure plate. It was a very light setup, clutch was heavy being a single disc. Very revvy. Held 290 front wheel kws. Ran it down the 400m once but broke a drive shaft in fwd mode. It broke from wheel hop i believe. Never slipped but upgrade to a twin plate to be safe (during a motor rebuild because there was a noise that was annoying me.. Turned previous engine builder was sloppy. The engine build tolerances were loose as a pro).
4. Os giken ts2b. Twin plate, never used it. Had some measurements taken and i was informed that the preassure plate was very heavy and it needed a special clutch fork bearing. I ordered the bearing and sold the clutch. I spoke to the Os Giken rep and he said it won't handle the power i was chasing.
5. Direct clutch twin plate: still in use to date. Very light pressure plate. Can ride. Not grabby. Holds on the dyno after multiple runs. Ran a 10.9@135mph. Noisy when clutched pressed in. Fantastic unit. Well never go back to single. 360aw kw.
6. Amg also runs the exact same clutch. I daily drive it. Noise is the only negative. Sounds like i have a bad release bearing. 290 fw kw.

 

[milkandoj]

Ive read very good things about the south bend, (the kevlar disk on both sides looks the same as design as my clutchnet unit) the link below has very good descriptions with personal experience of the setups by TMZ. The owner Tim Zimmerman is very well regaurded in the DSM drag racing community so its worth a read. He talks about setup's with lighter plates to prevent crankwalk. Its very similar to the clutch i run - the disk friction surface looks the same design to me, just no enclosed springs though.

He decribes the kevlar disk on both sides as; "The Kevlar material allows the clutch to be slipped like a street disk, but engage like a puck-clutch when you drop the hammer!" i couldnt say it better.

There is even higher load capacity disks compared to kevlar on both sides, ones with other materials on one side, that can be used with their lower 2200lb plate, worth a look.

http://www.tmzperfor...h%2520Kits.html

Ive been running a clutchnet 2500lb presure plate and sprung (enclosed springs so they cant pop out) kevlar disk (on both sides) in my vr4.. Running a 20g with cams up to 24psi.

Ive antilag launched it a lot with the antilag setup on differnt settings from 15-22psi. The clutch is perfectly slippable off the line but grabs where you want as you let it out. Pedal feel is no where near as heavy as other setups ive driven, but is firm enough to know you in a performance car, i like it that way. I do get a bit of a rattle on run decel and at each "rot-rot" idling with the lumpy cams, but not as loud as ive heard screeching twin plates, but you have to decide if you want to live with that, same as the spec clutch mentioned, the other option i was going to go.

Clutchnets sprung 6 puk disk is also gets good reviews from my reading, as being progressive in their take up. However im pretty sure Brisvr4 toasted one on hi vr4 running 50 trim on kill mode before going twin plate.

Read TMZ's description of the kevlar disk, for your setup id run that or the dual kevlar/ceramic or the clutchnet setup i use, 2X (2500lb) pressure plate and their sprung disk- has enclosed springs that im running.