NEW FMIC, NOW CAR STALLS. NO OIL PRESSURE

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EVOLVED95

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Joined
Dec 19, 2010
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23
Location
ipswich
Hi All

I have just had a fmic, boost guage and IC piping installed. When i picked the car up i drove it for about ten metres and it stalled when i pushed the clutch pedal in.. The closer the pedal gets to disengaging the clutch the lower the revs drop untill it cuts out (stalls) not violently just stops. Im hoping its just a loose connection as when i rang him the following day it wasn't happening so it is random. The oil pressure light was also on and the tapping was heaps worse than normal..This hasn't gone away. Any help would be great..
Thanks Luke
 
have you checked all your intercooler pipes for leaks

and check your oil levels etc

plus check that the oil pressure switch plug isn't half hanging off
 
What Trav said.

There's no reason at all for oil pressure issues when all you've had done is an intercooler/piping/boost gauge setup done. I'd be checking the oil levels ASAP to make sure nothing has happened in the workshop.

You've probably got a boost leak somewhere which would result in your stalling issue.
 
ouch....


no oil pressure = crank walk = noisy lifters = seized engine..

hopefully it is not th case...
check your dipstick..
check your head for evidence of oil...

has the shop still got the car?
 
ouch....


no oil pressure = crank walk = noisy lifters = seized engine..

hopefully it is not th case...
check your dipstick..
check your head for evidence of oil...

has the shop still got the car?
Yeah.. still got it..
It went in with a boost leak so i got the intercooler and piping replaced. It now has the stalling issue, oil pressure light is on and its really noisy.. Hopefully just some loose connections. Fingers crossed.
 
The shop says that there isn't any boost leaks, Ill get them to check again. The clutch was making a fair amount of noise (sounded like the T/O bearing) when i took it in.. Could this have shagged itself and be causing the stalling. Please let it be loose connections, Just had a full head rebuild, new manifold, new intercooler, piping and boost guage. would i need to reset the computer?
 
Yeah.. still got it..
It went in with a boost leak so i got the intercooler and piping replaced. It now has the stalling issue, oil pressure light is on and its really noisy.. Hopefully just some loose connections. Fingers crossed.

hhmm not by the sounds of it with the oil light coming on :(
 
Did they Dyno the car? Hope they didn't thrash it while road testing or something!
Seams strange that you have a noisy clutch, ticking lifters and stalling all at the same time ??
 
Gee I hope the shop didnt thrash the engine/take it out for a spin without you knowing about it (then deny it and say everything was fine when you picked it up) :blink:
If they were mucking around with the intercooler piping they could have damaged the TPS or Crank Angle Sensor wiring. Is the CAS wiring good and not explosed and freyed?
If its not firing properly you can get similar symptoms and sounds :) ie when the revs drop the engine cuts out ;)
Also on the off chance, Im not sure how your intercooler piping is setup or what they touched, but make sure there is nothing on the oil pressure wire/alternator loom shorting out.
 
did they plug the correct wires onto the power steer pump and oil sender,

if they broke them off while doing the install and installed them in the wrong positions then it will stall as the Idle up for the pump will be recieving
an oil pressure signal and vice versa

just a thought!

with regard to "crankwalk" when mine failed I had 120 thou play and I didn't have the squirters touched, yes the bearing was shot to shit and the crank had a huge wear mark but I just re-bearinged it and went again(did a mod to the T bearing) and 10K later pulled down the motor to fit new crank and there was NO wear to the thrust! And I was still using my big ugly single plater clutch.

so as a bandaid you can replace the bearings in car with out removing the gearbox, and still drive the car!

If the squirters have been damaged the oil pressure shouldn't change from original. (that is if it is the dreaded "Crankwalk" causing the noise
but the crankwalk won't change the oil pressure neither.

open the oil filler cap and see how much oil is flicking around up there?

good luck!

it sounds like you might need it!
 

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