Oil leak on RVR ><!

4GTuner

Help Support 4GTuner:

Brian I've allow some space between the bar and the floor, it still won't open. I have look at so many vids on youtube, those bolt come loose after turning the key..... could it be my battery? ive charged up my car batt, and have another car doing jump start the same time. Or could loctite be the issue stopping me from opening the crank bolt, I don't know did the previous builder put loctite on the thread....
 
I reckon you might need one of these.
http://www.pbtusa.com/pdfs/70865I.pdf

They are available here in WA
I saw one advertised in a car shop in bunbury, but I didn't get it, I haven't tried it.
I think it was $70 ish. It looks like the business, use a big hammer, lol
 
:lol: thanks Jack! I hope it will get the bolt loosen! Is there any in Perth, I ain't going to Bunbury that far hahhaa....ohhh hey are those powerbar guaranteed not to bend, has any one use them before?

If I do end up buying one of those bar, then i'll need to get something to hold on the crank sprocket from moving right? I still got my old timing belt on, how about a big adjustable spanner holding onto the inlet cam shaft + a block of wood pushing against the rad support and the spanner, and give the poewrbar a big hit, will it loosen the crank bolt?

BTW I've found one cheaper...anrd 55usd.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LASER-TOOLS-HAND-IMPACT-WRENCH-1-2-DRIVE-USE-A-HAMMER-/180703108295?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2a12be9cc7#ht_2257wt_952

Wae
 
I dont think a timing belt will hold it.
I would try it without holding it, then if it doesn't work I'd pull the sump off and put a piece of wood between crank and side of block, try to spread load as much as you can and hope you don't split the block.
There would be a powerbar in Perth, but I dunno where, you have to ring around. Toolmart is probably a yes, but pricey.

Another choice is to find a well equipped mobile mechanic to loosen it for you.
 
BMGTZ said:
have you got a decent compressor? where are you located...I could come and do it with my rattle gun.
Click to expand...

Hi Brian,

I do have a compressor Ingersoll Rand TM 300 and it has an air regulator on it, regulator leaks abit... I can't find any spec on the compressor on the net, will probably see better tomorrow morning.

The car is located in Riverton, about 10 - 15mins reach to my house if u take the roe hwy. If you do come with the rattle gun, do you want me to leave the timing belt on, or take the oil sump off (I tried it before cant get the transfer case off after removing the 5 bolts :lol:) or you got a better idea to remove the crank bolt with the rattle gun? I might need extra 1/2 drive extensions, better breaker bar (im using my torque wrench not a good idea uh), I got 2 meters solid pipe here if that helps... let me know. Thanks!!

Wae
 
There are plenty of things still holding me back lol...I need to get speed density for my ecmlink gonna run map sensor :D
 
Sorry for the bump, I've started to get the oil on top of the water pump, 240,xxx kms now.

Would it be the Cam shaft seals as well ? part # MD133317 ?

Thanks
Pete
 
Hey Pete you're looking at cam seals there mate, possibly the rocker gasket leaking, check by knocking off the top timing case cover and having a look with a torch. The cam seals cop a bit of heat and harden pretty quick.

Get some high temp seals for it if it's them.

The ones i got were blue and the crank seal was brown. Although you prob wont have to do the other seals, but that's just an assumption, can't hurt to spend the time to check the other seals, but in my case it was the cam seals that were well hard compared to the rest. You never know it could have been that the mechanic didn't replace the cam seals at the 100 000 belt change though, which I doubt cause no-one could be THAT stupid..... I hope...

Without reading this entire post I don't see why you didn't make this a new thread. Either way all good mate.
 
Django said:
Hey Pete you're looking at cam seals there mate, possibly the rocker gasket leaking, check by knocking off the top timing case cover and having a look with a torch. The cam seals cop a bit of heat and harden pretty quick.

Get some high temp seals for it if it's them.

The ones i got were blue and the crank seal was brown. Although you prob wont have to do the other seals, but that's just an assumption, can't hurt to spend the time to check the other seals, but in my case it was the cam seals that were well hard compared to the rest. You never know it could have been that the mechanic didn't replace the cam seals at the 100 000 belt change though, which I doubt cause no-one could be THAT stupid..... I hope...

Without reading this entire post I don't see why you didn't make this a new thread. Either way all good mate.
Click to expand...

I had a timing belt snap within the first 4 days of buying the car which took out the CAS as well. So i changed belt a + b, water pump, CAS and few other pieces, but didn't know anything about the cam seals, which have already started to leak, and this thread seemed to be up with what my problem is. I'll rip the front cover off again and see if I can find it. Do you have the part numbers?

Thanks
Pete.
 
Nah mate but they are very common, just ask your local parts dealer for some galant cam seals, they should have them in stock, try get the high temp ones. Did you do the other seals as well when you did the belt change?

BTW all this trouble with the crank lug nut for this guy could have been so much easier with heat on the lug nut! Then just a rattle and walla!
 
Django said:
Nah mate but they are very common, just ask your local parts dealer for some galant cam seals, they should have them in stock, try get the high temp ones. Did you do the other seals as well when you did the belt change?

BTW all this trouble with the crank lug nut for this guy could have been so much easier with heat on the lug nut! Then just a rattle and walla!
Click to expand...

Yep, I got a creme brulee blow torch thingo in "the magical isle of random" in Aldi and use it for any nut/bolt combo that ever exists if I need to remove it, other wise it's the 510nm torque rattle gun and swearing
 

Similar threads

B
Evo 1 Upcoming works
Replies
3
Views
1K
GSR94T
G
VIN18M
Satria GTi - Built 4g93t
Replies
5
Views
6K
danielwells2210
D
Taz
Forged 7 bolt + turbo package
Replies
6
Views
2K
Conveyorbelt
C
VIN18M
4g93t head gasket options
Replies
15
Views
2K
bj
B
BMGTZ
EVO 7 GTA
Replies
2
Views
1K
BMGTZ
BMGTZ

Latest posts

Back
Top