Oil Pressure Readings

[EVO-00X]

Ive collected some oil pressure readings and temps from my own car as I noticed when I was looking for this type of info in the forum for my brother (who recently installed gauges) and realised info was almost non existent.
It would be good to see what other guys get and how it differs with their mods and oil selection.
Obviously different engine mods and locations of the oil pressure switch and even the type of oil is going to give different results however having something to compare to similar to yours is better than having nothing to compare to at all :lol:
Tests will need to be done on 'non leaking engines' with your oil on the 'full capacity line on your dipstick' otherwise you're readings are going to be lower than normal.

This is merely an exercise to gather some comparisons and share info amongst members for this seldomly discussed topic - especially when you fit a set of new gauges and are wondering whether your readings are OK for the mods you've done to your engine. Info shared can also be used to alert you if you're getting too high or too low a reading and need to address it before premature engine component failure occurs.

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TEST CASE - OIL PRESSURE AND TEMP READINGS

What oil temp and pressure sensor gauges are you using?
Gloshift 52mm blue digital LED oil temp and digital LED electronic oil pressure gauges and sensors.

Where are your oil temp and oil pressure sensors fitted?
Im running a sandwich plate to an aftermarket remote oil filter housing. The digital oil pressure and oil temp sensors are mounted in the 1/4" fittings in the aftermarket oil filter housing.

What type of engine oil are you using?
Castrol Edge 10W-60 Fully Synthetic. When I had my EVO IV front bar with fully exposed oil cooler and outside ambient temp 21'C
Penrite HPR10 10W-50 (plus). Now I have my new front bar with half exposed oil cooler and outside ambient temp 28'C


What is the oil pressure sensor reading at cold startup?
90psi at dead cold morning startup
78-80psi at dead cold startup

What is the oil temp reading at normal operating temperature whilst driving?
After about 5 minutes of normal driving teps read:
Between 60-70’C and maintains that temp during normal driving (Ambient temp: 21’C)
Between 75-85'C and maintains that temp during normal driving (Ambient temp: 28'C)

What is the oil pressure reading at idle under normal operating temperature?
At 70’C idle with the 280 cams at 1100-1200rpm, oil pressure sits between 26-28 psi
At 76'C idle with the 280 cams at 1100-1200rpm, oil pressure sits between 26-28 psi. Also sits at 24psi at 85'C

What is the oil pressure reading range during normal cruising?
At 80kmh its 77-80psi at 70’C in 5th gear (approx 2,250-2,500rpm)
At 60kmh its 52-53psi at 70’C in 5th gear
At 80kmh its 74psi at 77’C in 5th gear (approx 2,250-2,500rpm). Also 70psi at 90'C.
At 60kmh its 58psi at 77’C in 5th gear. Also 50psi at 90'C

When does oil pressure hit 100psi when revving the car in neutral at normal operating temp?
I reach 100psi at wide open throttle at approx 4000rpm in neutral - no load at 80'C
I reach 100psi at wide open throttle at approx 5000pm in neutral - no load at 88'C

What is the maximum psi you have witnessed at wide open throttle (WOT) under load whilst driving?
Hits between 100-109psi at 7500rpm wide open throttle under load. Havent had time to look at the gauge at 8000rpm+
Hits 104psi at 7500rpm wide open throttle under load at 82'C

Have you carried out any i) oil pump, or ii) oil filter housing pressure relief modifications?
i) No. Its an OEM VR4 oil pump and it has not been modified, bored out or hi-flowed in any way.
ii) Not yet. Due to obtaining 100psi+ oil pressure at WOT at 7500rpm, I will need to consider porting the oil pressure relief valve in the oil filter housing to let more oil flow through at high rpms, which in turn reduces psi levels.

Where is your turbo oil line feeding from and are you using a turbo oil restrictor?
A braided turbo oil line feeds off the side off the head then screws onto an oil restrictor, then the oil restrictor screws into the centre cartridge of the Garret BB Turbo.

What hydraulic lifters are installed and do they tick?
OEM VR4 lifters. Hard to believe but true as they were out of a low 40km VR4 frontcut back in 2000 when I purchased the engine. No noisy lifter ticking. Been meaning to change these small pin hole lifters to 3G lifters that I have here in waiting on the parts shelf. Will change when I get the time and tool to do it lol :lol:

Have the balance shafts been removed?
Yes. BS eliminator kit fitted with stubby cut-shaft at the back of the oil pump.

What 4G63 engine is it and are there any other engine mods that may affect oil pressure?
VR4 Galant 6-bolt block and head, OEM oil squirters. No oil gallery modifications in engine block. No oil feed modifications to head except braided oil line to Garrett turbo centre cartridge via a restrictor. Remote oil filter relocation kit and large aftermarket oil cooler setup using -10AN lines and fittings increases oil capacity. 280 camshafts at 1100-1200rpm idle affecting warm engine idle pressure to 26-28psi.

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MY OIL TEMP READINGS DURING DRAG RACING FEB 2012

My modified VR4 engine and aftermarket oil cooler sits around 75-85'C during normal driving on hot days around town. With spirited driving and sitting idle it climbs up to the mid 90's.
Ive only experienced it pass 100'C (max 104'c) when I was sitting idle waiting in between some consecutive runs at WSID when it was around 32'C ambient temp outside.
The temperature would then come back down into the mid to high 90's after a run... then hit 100'C again sitting idle just before my next run.

 

[EVO-00X]

Other info of benefit which may be referred to in discussion:

1. You can purchase an HLA oil pressure regulator to restrict oil pressure to 15psi at the head: http://www.kigglyracing.com/parts/HLA_Pressure_Regulator.htm
This is something definitely worth considering in a competition car.
Info on the HLA Regulator:
Actively Regulates Lash Adjuster Supply Pressure to a Constant 15psi.
Accomplishes this by Restricting Flow Instead of Dumping Extra Pressure like the JDM Regulator.
Reduces Oil Flow Into the Head, Keeps More Oil in the Pan.
In Some Instances can Greatly Improve Oil Pressure at the End of a 1/4mi Pass. See Results from the Kiggly Racing Drag Car.
Air Bleed at the Highest Point Helps Oil Quality and Aeration to Lash Adjusters.

HLA Regulator:

Proven Results:

2. Porting the oil filter housing's pressure relief valve:
If your oil pressure gets too high in the upper rpms with 100psi+, you should consider porting your oil filter housing relief valve area.
Causes of higher oil pressure can be as a result from removing your balance shafts. Porting the relief area will help lower the oil pressure.
A DIY thread can be read here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/319342-oil-pressure-relief-valve-porting.html

Pic of ported oil relief:

3 - The head bolt closest to our driver's side headlight in our 4G63 engines has a specific clearance between the headbolt and the head to allow oil to pass through (Thanks to Aldo for pics)
When using larger diameter head bolts, the hole in the head should be counterbored about 20mm deep at a diameter to maintain the same clearance to the standard oil flow up into the head.
Here is a pic of the oil flow through a 4G63 head. Also an extra porting job in the pic.

4 - Balance Shaft Eliminator Kits
Balance shaft removal requires an obvious removal kit you can find just about anywhere for sale these days. Ensure you get 2 nicely chamfered edged bearings otherwise they are an absolute $%^& to knock into place. The 2 bearings need to be spun around 180 degrees to block off the oil gallery holes (or use 4G61 bearings that have no holes in them). It has been claimed that removing balance shafts alone can increase oil pressures by an extra 20psi. There are two different types to BSE kits to choose from - 1) Kit with a short stubby shaft or 2) Kit with a lathed down balance shaft to prolong oil pump life. Whichever you choose is your own personal preference.

5 - 2.0 & 1.8 Oil Feed Diagrams

6 - Oil filter housing ports explained

7 - Pic of Turbo Oil Feed Restrictor for GT BB Turbos

 

[OLDIE]

Remember pressure is resistance to flow and high readings are not always a good thing.10/40 oil is not thicker than 10/60 grade. They both flow the same( same viscosity ) when cold ,but when at operating temperature the Castrol will have a thicker viscosity and almost certainly will have higher pressure readings

 

[bazeng]

Great post Rob.

I'll get some log files from my MOTEC SDL for you.
Your readings do seem high at WOT but overall are pretty good.
I'm with OLDIE, to drop your pressures you would want something thinner.
0-40 or 0-30 would be ok imo.

 

[runuts]

Also note, the Kiggly HLA Flow Restrictor is not a replacement for porting the oil filter pressure relief area of the housing. If anything, oil pressure will increase with the Kiggly restrictor in place. It does do a very good job of keeping oil in the pan, and not pumping so much into the head.

If your oil pressure is going above 100psi, its too high and can potentially cause you some issues. Oil leaks, Oil pressure unit damage etc.

For those interested, this is the oil requirements for Garrett GT series CHRA's.

 

[bazeng]

Hi Rob,

Where can I purchase these restrictors also?
The last one I made, but I'd rather buy one... It could solve my oil consumption problem on the VR4! lol

 

[Hypo]

I can tell you that at the end of 5th gear and jumping on the brakes my oil pressure drops below 40psi in my Evo.

Thats where my alarm is set at.

 

[EVO-00X]

Yes, you try typing all that sh!t out at 3.30am in the morning with the flu and lack of sleep and get your 'thinner/thicker' right lol :lol:
I was going to move to the Motul Chrono 10W40 next but now leaning more toward the 0W-40 Edge to compare results to the current 10W-60 in it.

Baz, do you have a leaking turbo seal from too high a pressure?
Those restrictors can be purchased anywhere that sell turbo products. Do a quick Google search or EBay search on 'turbo oil restrictor' and you'll find several suppliers.
If you're getting your oil feed from the head to your BB turbo then you need to install one.

Are you guys going to share what oil pressures you're getting in your setups or what? :lol:

 

[lozza]

very interesting thread thanks. i will be sure to when i have mine running with a ported oil relief housing! i have read that most leaks were from the front cover gasket at above 100psi. When I built my 2.3 i kept my oil squirters in just to prevent even higher oil pressure - not sure if people do this for the same reason?

yes the kiggly will definitely make a high oil pressure situation worse since it restricts flow total flow to the head but good if you want to maximise pressure/flow to the big end bearings.

 

[JETGSR]

I find 0 weighted oils tend to give oil leaks too easy and as I am in sunny queensland 15/50 weight is more than enough

as far as oil pressure goes I'm pushing 90 psi from about 3000 rpm up (yeah I think it is a bit high too!)

Oil to the turbo is good (GT3082 BB) pressure is about 14psi max


I have ported the housing and reduced the spring pressure on the bypass but it still is high - O btw I have no balance shafts which could account for it being extra high too.

might look a thinner oil?


edit: the oil is only hot if you put your finger in it!!

 

[JC evo1]

1. You can purchase an HLA oil pressure regulator to restrict oil pressure to 15psi at the head: http://www.kigglyracing.com/parts/HLA_Pressure_Regulator.htm
This is something definitely worth considering in any competition car and beats the sh!t out of (and is easier to do) than porting out your oil filter housing
Info on the HLA Regulator:
Actively Regulates Lash Adjuster Supply Pressure to a Constant 15psi.
Accomplishes this by Restricting Flow Instead of Dumping Extra Pressure like the JDM Regulator.
Reduces Oil Flow Into the Head, Keeps More Oil in the Pan.
In Some Instances can Greatly Improve Oil Pressure at the End of a 1/4mi Pass. See Results from the Kiggly Racing Drag Car.
Air Bleed at the Highest Point Helps Oil Quality and Aeration to Lash Adjusters.

Agree with Todd 100%, the HLA restrictor is not a substitute for porting the oil relief valve, 2 completley different things.

The Kiggly regulator is a good idea although the noise from the lifters was pretty crazy on the car I've heard running.
Another thing to consider is how much does the valve train rely on the splashed oil from the HLA for cooling and lubrication?
Sure the cam journals still receive full oil flow and maybe the valvetrain gets enough oil from there but whos to know?
For a drag car its a great idea but for circuit it maybe fixing one problem while creating another.

 

[EVO-00X]

Updated reference post - this is good guys.
Troy are you getting that 100psi @ WOT @ 3000rpm when driving, or whilst in neutral? :blink:

 

[JETGSR]

while driving or free reving,

idle when cold 80psi idle when hot 30-40psi
with the cams and setup i have it idles at about 1000


Troy

 

[JETGSR]

personally there is copious amounts of oil in my topend and i like it that way!

mine takes pretty much 5 ltrs of oil including filter

which is more than normal i think?

the idiot light on the dash for oil pressure ? they normally light at what 15psi? so thats what Mitsubish deems to be too low at the filter housing.

I'd also better check which port i have my guage plugged into too. I think it is the std sensor port? better check me thinks!

 

[Smutt]

4G93T, factory oil pump, Mobil 1 (5W-50)

Remote Oil Filter and Oil Cooler

Autometer Sport Comp Gauge Tee'd into Oil Pressure Switch on Head

Dead Cold start 60psi (winter)
Warm idle 20psi
Full load 60psi
Full load max rpm - nudges 65 - 70 psi

The only time it has dropped below 20psi was "oops... oil level went a tad low" I stopped immediately and put oil in it.. lucky my tools and oil and shit were still in the boot!

Garrett GT3076 (with oil inlet restricter)

I have tried 40 Weight Oil's this was pre-rebuild though.. The tappets were so noisy and the thinner oil found new oil leaks/ weeps.. so I dropped the oil the next afternoon.

 

[OLDIE]

Yes, you try typing all that sh!t out at 3.30am in the morning with the flu and lack of sleep and get your 'thinner/thicker' right lol :lol:
I was going to move to the Motul Chrono 10W40 next but now leaning more toward the 0W-40 Edge to compare results to the current 10W-60 in it.

Given your medical condition and lack of sleep you are forgiven for the typo ,been there done that but wanted to clarify things for those who are not clued up about most things regarding oil viscosity numbers.
So for those who don't know the 0W Edge will flow thru the motor faster/easier at a cold start than the 10w Chrono which is considered to be a good thing, but at the same operating temps all things being equal the Edge & the Chrono should have the identical pressure readings

 

[EVO-00X]

Yep, plus as much as the Chrono is an excellent oil, its probably a bit too pure and a lot too expensive for a daily driver as it wont have as much detergents in it to help soak up impurities. Therefore would require more frequent changes and more $$ out of your pocket :lol: .

OK first up is the oil change to 0W40 and I'll post results in this thread over the weekend.
If the psi is still around the 100 mark at 7000rpm+ (which I suspect it still could be) then I'll be porting the housing the next time I feel like getting under the car and swearing my head off to remove it :lol:

Troy, when driving in gear under load, what rpm are you at when it hits 100psi?
When parked in neutral and free-revving, what rpm are you at when it hits 100psi?

Thanks Smutt. Those numbers look good.

 

[CYBORG-X]

wow rob, 100psi seems a little high...hopefully it comes down when your motors fully bedded in...
i havent got a 4g63, but on TOY 12S with a G13B turbo, it has 50 psi cold start. 5psi at hot idle, cruise at 3k rpm it has 40 psi, and under load 60psi..
this is a good example what oil pressures i look for in engines i build, but also each engine has its own...

 

[JETGSR]

any gear under load 100psi at anything above 3000 rpm

free rev anything over 3000 rpm

pretty simple really ! 3000 seems to be the number!

before i ported the housing and lowered the relief spring pressure it would sometimes bounce the needle in a very unattractive way but this normally only occured at 7000 rpm and 80 + % load

 

[EVO-00X]

Geez Troy yours is hitting 100 pretty early, even with a ported housing. Maybe your relief valve is playing up.
What kind of spring mod did you do? Ive read people cut the relief pressure spring but wouldnt that do the exact opposite to what they want to achieve and make the spring harder to compress? This would mean the pressure relief would stay closed for longer. Replacing it with the same size spring which is softer and easier to compress would be better yes?

Simon, 5psi at hot idle would be deemed too low for these engines. Anything 10psi+ would be the minimum.
Seems the going consensus across a variety of engines is aiming for '10psi per 1000rpm' by looks of it.