Oils and Brake Fluid - EVO II

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Hypo

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2006
Messages
1,309
Location
Brisbane
I have been through and read the threads and seen peoples advice. Just wanted your take on these oils and if they will be any good .

For the Gearbox and Transfer case I bought

Penrite Manual gear Oil 70 SAF 70-75

http://www.penrite.com.au/files/EW3TGZ8DY7/MANUAL GEAR OIL 70.pdf

For the Rear Diff I bought

Penrite Limslip 85w-140 Gear Oil

http://www.penrite.com.au/files/PF285522M8/LIMSLIP 85W-140.pdf

Brake Fluid

Motul RBF 600 FACTORY LINE

http://www.motul.com.au/product_line_up/fork_brake_others/others04.html
 
I use Nulon Dot-4 brake fluid in my EVO3 calipers, it's about 1/3 price of the Motul for the same size bottle. I've done 4x track sessions at Sandown (very heavy braking course) without any dramas.
 
what boiling point is the nulon

i know the rbf600 can take up too 340degrees celcius i think

but then i cant remember if rbf600 is a synthetic brake fluid if it is you'll want too rebuild or change every component from callipers too mastercylinder or suffer loss of pedal once hot
 
i thought they stop making castrol super response as noone can get any and everyone has told me castrol stopped making it
 
Not sure what the Nulon boiling point is, but I haven't reached it in any of my 4x Sandown track sessions sofar.
 
I use Dia Queen 75W/85 which is the specified weight for the M/T and almost any 80W/90 gear oil for the transfer.

I think the M/T oil you have will be too light for summer here in Aust.

My 2c!
 
the reason i ask is its running on castrol edge 5w30 and its using oil soo im about too give it a service and see if thats stops burning the oil
 
cblancergsr said:
the reason i ask is its running on castrol edge 5w30 and its using oil soo im about too give it a service and see if thats stops burning the oil

DUDE!
5w30 is too thin for GSRs.
Esp if its a worn out tired/old engine!
10w-40 or 15w-40 is about what you should be using...
 
Hypo, I found it was cheaper to use "normal" Dot 4 brake fluid and give it a good flush before events than to use the likes of the RBF600 etc (which you should still bleed before events anyway). I used to use cheap Valvoline from Supercheap fluid in my rally without dramas. The only thing I did look for was a foil seal on the container when you open the lid to keep moisture out.

Tate, you don't need to change calliper/ mastercylinder seals if you use Silicone based fluids.
 
rob323 said:
Hypo, I found it was cheaper to use "normal" Dot 4 brake fluid and give it a good flush before events than to use the likes of the RBF600 etc (which you should still bleed before events anyway). I used to use cheap Valvoline from Supercheap fluid in my rally without dramas. The only thing I did look for was a foil seal on the container when you open the lid to keep moisture out.

Tate, you don't need to change calliper/ mastercylinder seals if you use Silicone based fluids.

A few people said the same thing so I changed to Penrite Sin.

Will find out in a couple of weeks out at QR :)
 
I managed to fade my DS2500 pads on the front of my vr4 on the 5th lap at a sprint day at QR, the fresh cheap Valvoline fluid however showed no signs of boiling. The brakes got so hot that the heat from the disc transferred to my Oz racing wheels and yellowed the white paint in the centre of the front wheels.

Have you removed the shields from behind your discs for extra ventilation yet?
 
Nope I haven't removed them yet.

I do have QFM Pads and RDA slotted rotors to go on.
Formulation - Cold Friction - High Friction - Temperature (C)
AFM A1RM - 0.40 - 0.48 - 0-780

This one is all about learning before I hit the Gatton Street Sprints.
 
Do you guys have any issue with boiling power steering fluid? I solve mine with RL D4 ATF for power steering fluid.
 

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