Other 7-bolt engines compatible with Evo1/2/3? 1G in a 2G?

[evopwr]

Hey guys,

Topic may have been covered to some extent (and I do recall reading about it sometime ago) but I can't find any useful info!


Looking at purchasing a cheap engine to 'rebuild and drop in'. It needs to be compatible with Evo1/2/3 chassis and auxiliaries (electrical, cooling, gearbox, etc). Or at least as minimum fuss as possible.

VR4/6-bolts are out of the question as there seems to be a fair bit of work required to drop this into a 7-bolt car. Is it worth considering from an ease of installation point of view?

What about RVR engines? Non-turbo vs turbo ones? If the engine is going to be completely stripped and rebuilt, these should be OK?

Or the Nimbus 4G64? What work is involved in prepping that up?

I guess my main concern is the electrical components will be incompatible.

Any help, or links, would be much appreciated!

 

[EVO-00X]

Alex, youve got a GLXi 4G93 EFI SOHC in it still eh?
The easiest conversion will be the 4G93T from a GSR.
You use a GSR engine bay loom and GSR ECU. The GSR engine loom plugs straight into the GLXi interior loom behind the glovebox. Its a very easy and straightforward conversion.
Next will be 4G63 EVO 4G63 7 bolt.
The VR4 will be the next easiest where you would only change the throttle body and CAS to EVO items.
Following that RVR because even though people think its close to an EVO engine, most of the RVR engines you see (other than the Hypersport model) are actually Eclipse motors with the bullet style oil squirters and had an auto behind them. These are the engines highly prone to crankwalk with a manual transmission and heavy duty clutch behind them. (See the 4G63T into GSR DIY sticky in this section to answer a lot of questions). This conversion will require a lot of additional parts, sensors and wiring adjustments to suit the CC Lancer
The 4G64 from a Nimbus is only SOHC EFI and you will need to block off some deck jackets in the 4G64 block before putting an EVO DOHC head on it. You will then need intake manny, zort manny and others.
Obviously all will require the appropriate engine mounts to fit the CC Lancer.

 

[EVOCPE]

Rob, Alex has an EVO 4G63T engine, he converted it years ago before he did the AWD conversion

RVR Hypergear will fir but you will need to change a few things such as the CAS, TB, INJ etc

If you just want a long block then the RVR engine will be fine and bolt all your existing EVO gear onto it

 

[evopwr]

Mike's on the ball, come on Rob! haha

I'm running CE9A evo2 engine/drivetrain/electronics.

Wouldn't mind giving rebuilding from the ground up a go. Just thinking what the most suitable option would be to reduce car operating downtime whilst not having to go through the expense of buying another evo engine (ease of compatibility).

Regarding 6-bolt engines (VR4). What about the engine mounts, do they need to be changed? In other words, if I have a bare VR4 engine and swap over the TB and CAS to evo-spec items, will it drop in and bolt up to all the other evo-specific items (engine mounts/gearbox/loom)?

Might just need to keep my eye out for a bargain!

 

[evopwr]

Bumpage regarding VR4 engine (6bolt) into a evo1-3 (7bolt).

I've found an article (attached - 1G in a 2G).

Seems the work to do this is much more comprehensive then just swapping the CAS/TB?

 

[EVOCPE]

Sensors are different, the sandwich plate between block and box is different, theres a list

Reason I said just build a rvr long motor and whennyour ready just bolt your intake and thermostat housings on

 

[EVO-00X]

I wouldn't even piss on some RVR motors with Mikey's dick... that's how much I despise them lol.
Hypergear RVR engine is the same as EVO so yes - that's the one you want. But the RVR Sportsgear (actually a 2G DSM engine) not one fukn chance!!
It'll be a waste of time and money unless you have an auto transmission behind it.

Alex, just build a complete VR4 bottom end. Then when you are ready to do the engine conversion, put your existing EVO head onto the VR4 block. Use VR4 head studs so that will mean you will need to make the holes in the EVO head 1mm larger (from 11mm to 12mm) to fit over the VR4 headstuds. That way you get the best of both worlds = A reliable bottom end, especially if you fit a girdle, plus the design of the EVO head. Plus all your existing electrics and manifolds etc will bolt back on. Just do it.... do it.... dooooo iiiiiiiiit,

 

[4piknup]

I was thinking this too ↑

http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/161107528656?nav=SEARCH&sbk=1

Just need some turbo pistons

 

[evopwr]

Did some scouting around, seems like Shayne (ENGINR) was asking about evo head on VR4 block years ago (around 2006)..

Seems like only the evo head bolt holes need to be drilled out to suit VR4 head studs, and the evo passangers side engine mount needs to be shaved a little to accomodate VR4 water pump.

Also for ease of transferring VR4 block into evo shell, I think a J-spec VR4 block is preffered as it has provision for external oil cooler (like the evo) as opposed to the AUS spec VR4 block which is cooled via coolant.

 

[EVOCPE]

You also need to modify the water pump pipe to thermostat

You can use any vr4 block, just use a jdm oil filter housing

 

[evopwr]

Thread revival!

May be a long shot, but is there a way of determining if a long block (engine minus intake/exhaust/etc) is EVO1/2/3 or RVR? Both a 7-bolt so looking at the crank end won't help.

What about the engine numbers on the block?

cheers
alex

 

[evopwr]

OK So I've found some information on how to determine E1/2/3, most of which is common knowledge:

Check the body code:

EVO 1 --CD9A-SNGF
EVO 2 - CE9A-SNGF
EVO 3 - CE9A-SNGF

EVO 1,2 turbo no. 49178 0145
EVO 3 turbo no 49178 0147
EVO 1 and 2 : intercooler size r same
EVO 3 : intercooler bigger than EV0 1/2
EVO 1,2,3 ECU number 7701 (all same)

EVO 1
1992
MITSUBISHI LANCER CD9A
Engine: 4G63 (2000 cc, I-4, Turbo 250 hp)
Layout: Front / 4WD

EVO 2
1994
MITSUBISHI LANCER CE9A
Engine: 4G63 (2000 cc, I-4, Turbo 260-270 hp)
Layout: Front / 4WD

EVO 3
1995
MITSUBISHI LANCER CE9A
Engine: 4G63 (2000 cc, I-4, Turbo 260-270 hp)
Layout: Front / 4WD

U can also check

1) Engine head code beside distributor.

EVO1 - G6K - 1 or 2
EVO 2 - G6K - 3
EVO 3 - G6K - 4 or 5

2) turbo

EVO 1 - 45
EVO 2 - 46
EVO 3 - 47

3) ECU code

E1 - 7701
E2 - 2468
E3 - 2364

4) Piston ( if engine dismantle)

EVO1 - H1
EVO2 - H2
EVO3 – EV

I don't know how accurate this information is, especially relating to the pistons, and cylinder head markings.

 

[evopwr]

More information from DSMTUNERS:

1. Visual inspection quick reference:

-all EVO 1-2-3 have a black CAS sensor part no: MD184529;
-all EVO 2-3 have black color revised ISC sensor;
-if the engine has a cyclone intake it is not a evo motor;
-evo 3 had stock white color dip sticks only; (but it can be any color of course)
-evo 3 had silver top valve cover; (but it can be any color of course, red top I saw them before);
-evo 2-3 have a specific TB that is part number MD322173;
-intake manifold should be silver with short runners;
-there should not be a radiator fill cap on the water neck;(it’s located on the radiator);
-the IGN coil pack should be placed upwards on the intake man;
-the turbo for an evo 3 should be stamped: 49178-01470, for EVO 2: 49178-01460, and for evo 1: 49178-01450; (OEM turbo part numbers, of course they can vary)
-yellow top injectors should have a 540 mark on them or 585 mark on some RARE models(585 some U.K models);

2. More detailed information:

-The timing belt cover should have the part number stickers on them: on all evo 1-2-3 motors you should confirm MD191805 for the top cover, and MD191807 for the bottom one;
-THE MOST IMPORTANT detail it’s the IGNITION COIL and POWER TR: All evo 1-2-3 motors ignition coils should have a silver sticker between the no 1 and 4 coil reading MD192126, SHOULD also have RED and BLUE only wires to each coil; and the connector should be a Triangle shape 3 PIN!!! IF it is different then IT IS NOT an EVO MOTOR!
-the Power Tran on evo 2-3 models should only have 3 pins followed by 4 more and you should be able to read MD192127 on it!( not sure yet what PR on evo 1, I will check and update)!
-another important clue it’s the injector resistor box that should be engraved: MD099628;
-If you happen to buy the ecu/tranny combo then the ecus in evo 2-3 are ALL EPROM and should all read MD322364!
-the transmissions VARY but here is the trick to find out if it’s an evo tranny or not:
All transmissions should be stamped- ex : W5M33-2-ABCX!!!
The 4th letter of the second part (marked X in my example) represents the mounting location(vehicle type) the tranny is designated for, and should always be the letter
“ E” (evo lancer) any other letter M, K, or D represent different vehicles:M=Galant etc etc;

 

[EVO-00X]

Thread revival!

May be a long shot, but is there a way of determining if a long block (engine minus intake/exhaust/etc) is EVO1/2/3 or RVR? Both a 7-bolt so looking at the crank end won't help.

What about the engine numbers on the block?

cheers
alex

Alex, look at my description and photographs regarding the difference in the position of the welsh plugs on the RVR and EVO blocks here:
http://www.4gtuner.com/topic/2906-2lt-conversion-faqshelp-ideas/?p=223893

Its a quick and easy visual inspection if the long block doesn't have intake or turbo on it.

 

[EVO-00X]

Ah here's the pic I'm talking about mate.

RVR Sportsgear (same as DSM Eclipse in the US with bullet style block) = the kind of block you DO NOT want to run in a manual transmission car with h/duty clutch due to crankwalk.
Its welsh plugs are basically horizontal on both sides of the engine block.

The RVR Hypergear and EVO blocks are the blocks you want. They use the proper oil squirters and the welsh plugs on the intake side are in a big "U" shape.

 

[4piknup]

Guru ↑↑
We are not worthy.

 

[EVO-00X]

lol Jack. I look back now thinking fark I rebuilt a few 4G63's in my garage over the years :thumbsup:

 

[GeoKez]

Quality info, should be sticky.

 

[EVO-00X]

Differences according to the U.S boys, but we have cars like the GSR, RVR and GVR4 which throws a spanner in the works over here.
i.e. NRBE is a GSR Lancer transmission code. It ends in "E" but it is far from an EVO gearbox.
The "E" signifies it comes from a 92-96 "CC Lancer" chassis based vehicle like an Evo I-III, GSR, Mirage, Cyborg, and Libero.

 

[evopwr]

Sweet as, this was EXACTLY what I wanted to confirm! I tried your post earlier Rob but the pics weren't loading up. Anyway I got it now!

Rob for president.