P.O.S Balance shaft belts!!! :(

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kayarubin

4G63-T
Joined
Dec 30, 2005
Messages
544
hey guys.. update on my vr4

recently put a new timing belt and tensioner on my old girl along with the non grinding gearbox and fidanza fly and exedy clutch etc...

anyway, driving home the other day and i hear a little sound come from the front left hand side of the car after a had given it a bit of stick from second to third (never took it over 6k) thought it was a bit weird.. so i gave it a rev and noticed the engine was alot rougher than before... so anyway this happened JUST around the corner of my place.. thank god.. and when i pulled up home i let her idle for a bit and gave it a couple more soft revs... then realised... shit... this is the same feeling my old nimbus motor had when i just pulled the balance shaft belt off and didn't disengage the oil pump one... :( i shut her off as quick as possible.. then pulled the top cam cover off and saw that the timing belt had been fouled by the balance belt..

also just before i shut her off it started making a hollow tapping noise, like the belt got wrapped around the crank and started slapping into everything and the car was running quite rough like it had a vac leak... i think (but i don't hope) that the belt has skipped a tooth or two and got dangerously close to bending the valves in the head... :(

at this stage if the valves are bent its not the end of the world as i have a spare good cond head sittin in the cupboard at home and some arp head studs from the old vr4 motor i have in peices for a rebuild, i have the balance shaft elim kit for it too... all i need is some oil pump, intake/exh gaskets and a mitsu metal head gasket to make her a bit more safe on high boost..

so work will start on finding out the extent of the damage asap... i will keep you guys posted on the progress...

any advice on anything make sure to tell me... as i dont want this thing to keep shittin itself... lol i know its a big ask for a galant... but hey... its worth a try! lol.

cheers guys!

kaya.
 
very bad, why dont you take it above 6 k lol?
i happily take it to the limiter every day ahah

anyway buy a b shaft elim kit, put one in my n/a ggsr and its brilliant, nothing to worry about and increases oil pressure aswell.
 
Sounds like you were lucky Kaya. Time and time again the ol' balance shaft belt or balance shaft bearings cause grief. When you redid the timing belt recently did you use a complete new timing belt kit which included balance shaft belt and pullys etc? Lots of guys just change the timing belt (cheapest thing to do) and forget about the rest. Problem is a timing belt could have been changed 4 times already and the balance shaft belts could still be the original! Unless you know the history of the engine best to change the lot including a new waterpump whilst you're there. Better yet, remove the balance shafts out of the equation with an eliminator kit IMO. I hate the bastards as I have seen what the damage they can cause so I refuse to install them in engines that have had some $$ spent on them with forgies etc. I hate the way the bearings install into the block and especially hate the way how frikken tight the shafts are when you knock them into the fresh bearings... no wonder the fukkers spin if the tolerances are too tight.
 
.. no wonder the fukkers spin if the tolerances are too tight.[/quote]

this is exactly what happened on the white lancer I bought...spun a balance shaft bearing.....then nipped the big ends.

what is the best fix for the oil pressure issues people "talk" about after the balance shafts are removed? is there an issue or is this just forum crap?
 
to4garret said:
i was running over 130psi oil pressure till i ported my pressure relief valve.

now i barely see 100psi

Did you also have to shorten the relief valve spring? and is this a must do with the shafts removed as I have just fitted an eliminator kit.
 
marinetowing said:
Did you also have to shorten the relief valve spring? and is this a must do with the shafts removed as I have just fitted an eliminator kit.

i did mine, and its perfectly fine... holds 100psi at cold start and doesnt go over.... no mods to oil filter housing...
 
Having too greater oil pressure can be as harmful as low oil pressure.

Rule of thumb is 10 psi for every 1000rpm with a base of about 1 bar...

So by 7000 rpm you should have around 70 - 80psi ideally...

I too ported my oil filter housing relief hole... only slightly..
 
bazeng said:
Having too greater oil pressure can be as harmful as low oil pressure.

Rule of thumb is 10 psi for every 1000rpm with a base of about 1 bar...

So by 7000 rpm you should have around 70 - 80psi ideally...

I too ported my oil filter housing relief hole... only slightly..

really baz, i have bloody 45psi warm idle and like over 100 (top of the gauge) at like 5k
what do i need to do
 
bazeng said:
Having too greater oil pressure can be as harmful as low oil pressure.

Rule of thumb is 10 psi for every 1000rpm with a base of about 1 bar...

So by 7000 rpm you should have around 70 - 80psi ideally...

I too ported my oil filter housing relief hole... only slightly..

i've had no problems so far from n/a-> supercharger-> turbo
 
Im puttin cams in soon and was planing to do it with the motor in, and replace the timing belt obviously, and blance shaft belt and water pump. While the side cover is off.
Should i look at doing the balanch shaft bearings? can it be done with motor in?
And the balance shaft delete, is it a take the motor out job? Space is pretty tight in there.

Reading this made thread me reconsider just doing the balance shaft belt
 
balance shaft belt should always be done when changing the timing belt.

that or taking the balance shafts out, which can be done with the motor in the car. it involves a hack saw :)

its way easier to take the balance shafts out with the motor out, however its not impossible to remove them when the motors in either.
 
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