Pics of my Evo 1 Rally Car + questions (56K beware)

[deviantek]

Hello again everyone. As always thanks in advance as the TEAM4G community is fantastic,

I just got my car back from the paint shop, and I'm fairly satisfied with the job for what I paid, but it would seem they didnt put enough coats on as there's some red showing through in areas. In any case, here's some before and after shots.

The important things I need answered are:

1) confirm that the shots of the areas circled by my control arm are in fact the rear control arm bushings. My bushings are shot and it's causing extreme knocking/wobbling of the rear wheels and it's starting to show on the tire tread.

2) Would anyone reccomend I change the BOV to something like an SSQ for the sound? Any negatives to doing so? Anyone have any links/suggestions for what's the best sounding recirculating BOV?

To start, here's the pics of the busing I'm referring to (both left and right rear wheels):

Results of bad rear control arm bushings: Rear tires, especially the rear right is getting chewed up:

Just changed the car fluids and went with these, hopefully all good choices for the 4g63 engine:

The car before (red, had nasty rusting & clear coat issues)

And the car now:

The list of the car as I purchased it:

This is one of the few real imported Mitsubishi Evolution 1 GSR in
United States. It was imported from Japan few years ago. It was
originally set up for Rally, but is using a street set up
currently. Below is a list of parts and modifications that have been professionally done by one of the Japan's tuner shops (ALEX). This car is amazing and is perfect for what it has. It is very fast and quick for being light weight and decently tuned.

Lancer Evolution GSR CD-9A (October, 1992)
Engine
* Rebuild by ALEX 3,000Km (1,875mile) ago
- Mitsubishi piston rings, thrust bearings, main bearings,
front & rear main seal
- Mitsubishi Evo new turbo
- Power Enterprise 1.5mm metal head gasket
- Power Enterprise timing belt and balance belt
- Rally Art engine mounts
* NGK racing spark plugs
* NGK racing spark cables
Transmission
* Rebuild by ALEX 4,000Km (2,500mile) ago
- Mitsubishi ALL new bearings, synchro-mesh rings
Suspension
* Replace stabilizer and lower arms from CD9A (Evo 1) to
CE9A (Evo 2, 3)
* KYB Rally / Gravel springs
- Front: 4.2kg/mm
- Rear: 3.5kg/mm
* KYB Gravel shock
- Front: Rally Special
- Rear: Rally Special
* Rally Art suspension upper mount bushings
* Rally Art front tower bar
* Rally Art rear tower bar
* Cusco Type 2 lower arm bar
* Jspeed (Car Station Marche) fender brace
Differential Gear
* LSD with ALEX custom setting
- Front: Cusco LSD RS 1 way 4,000Km (2,500mile) ago
- Rear: Cusco LSD MZ 1 way 3,500Km (2,188mile) ago
* Evo RS front LSD conversion parts
* Evo RS rear LSD conversion parts
Exhaust system & Air cleaner
* Fujitsubo RM-01A Exhaust system
* Fujitsubo racing down pipe
* After market stiff muffler bushings
* M's air cleaner
Clutch
* Cusco Hyper clutch cover
* Cusco Hyper light weight metal clutch disc
* OS Giken light weight fly wheel
* Knight Sports stainless steel mesh clutch hose
* Mitsubishi new clutch master cylinder
* ALEX stiff clutch pedal bracket
Brake
* Brake pad
- Front: Delphi Lockheed ZR (for racing track)
- Rear: Delphi Lockheed MT (for Rally and Auto-X)
* Brake calipers Rebuild by ALEX 3,000Km (1,875mile)
ago
* ALEX brake piston position helper springs (inside of the
front brake calipers)
* APP stainless steel mesh brake hoses
* Cusco brake master cylinder stopper
* Mitsubishi new hubs and knuckles
For Rally
* SAFTY21 (Cusco) 14 points CDS roll cage with
SAFTY21 roll cage sleeve (order made)
* SAFTY21 (Cusco) A and B pillar reinforcement plates
* Carrosser (Cusco) front skip plate
* Carrosser (Cusco) gas tank guard
* Carrosser (Cusco) differential gear box guard
* Carrosser (Cusco) Rally mud flaps
Interior
* Driver side
- SPARCO Corsa 2000 model black seat
- LaStrada Rally Super Low position seat rail
- Sabelt racing seat belt (3 inch / including shoulder pads)
- Carrosser (Cusco) Rally foot rest
- ALEX custom eye ball mounts for 4 points seat belts
* Passenger side
- SPARCO Evo2 2004 model black seat
- LaStrada Rally Super Low position seat rail
- Sabelt racing seat belt (2 inch / including shoulder pads)
- Carrosser (Cusco) Rally foot rest
- ALEX custom eye ball mounts for 4 points seat belts
* OMP Velocita 35cm black suede leather steering wheel
* Rally Art manual shifter bushing
* RAZO WRC style shift knob
* Rigid Alpha break and clutch pedals' covers
* AC, CD, speakers, radio units and floor cover are
removed
* Blitz turbo timer
* Inter Trust interior rear wide view mirror
Others
* Mine's race tune ECU
* YOKOHAMA ADVAN A035 (195/65 R15) tires
* Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 3 stock OZ white wheel
* Power Enterprise MAG Power 2 oil filter
* Mitsubishi Evo 1 rain guard
* Mitsubishi fuel filter 500Km (313mile) ago
* Mitsubishi cam shaft position sensor 600Km (375mile)
ago
* Red Line engine, transmission and LSD oil

Installed Cusco Zero-2E coilovers. It has an electronic
adjustable controller that can be mounted on the dash and adjusted on
the fly. Also installed is a set of 5Zigen FN01R-C 17x8 wheels with
Falken Azenis RT615 225/45R17 tires.

 

[DOUGMO]

that is your lower control arm mate. as i said that bush on an evo is a rose joint, it just has a rubber dust cover on it...
under there its just metal to metal but has too much play now

if your tyres are weaing like that though it might be the front toe arm
which joins to the inside front of the trailing arm or even the upper rear arm as they also both have adjustments available on the camber bolts

that black thing with e5t06071 is your airflow meter

 

[deviantek]

that is your lower control arm mate. as i said that bush on an evo is a rose joint, it just has a rubber dust cover on it...
under there its just metal to metal but has too much play now

if your tyres are weaing like that though it might be the front toe arm
which joins to the inside front of the trailing arm or even the upper rear arm as they also both have adjustments available on the camber bolts

that black thing with e5t06071 is your airflow meter

I had it looked at, and the techs came to the conclusion of the rear control arm bushings.... though they could be absolutely wrong. Is it not that bushing the stabilizes the horizontal movement of the wheel? That's the problem for the knocking.

I already have this part on order to hopefully** fix the problem:

http://www.priracing.com/product.php/1216/0/evo-3---rear---control-arm-lower---inner---outer-bushes

Am I incorrect in thinking this is the part that will fix the problem? Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you mean by rose joint. Could you help me out with a picture? Thank you.

 

[thirteen]

ECU location:

Looks tough in matt black 8)
(image updated)

 

[deviantek]

ECU location:
Looks tough in matt black 8)

Ah, thank you. Is that inside the drivers side dash, or on the drivers side in the engine bay?

Thanks!

 

[DOUGMO]

the ecu is inside the cabin next to where the passenger would have their left lower leg...

the front leg of the roll cage might be in the way a bit though

 

[DOUGMO]

AND
those bushes you are looking at should work to fix the problem but they wont be quite as tight as the factory type setup in good condition

do a google image search of rose joint and you will see the difference

 

[deviantek]

the ecu is inside the cabin next to where the passenger would have their left lower leg...

the front leg of the roll cage might be in the way a bit though

Gotcha, Thanks. Were you able to dig up any pictures of that 'rose joint' you're referring to? Would love to nail down the part and make sure I'm ordering the right thing.

Thanks again,

 

[deviantek]

AND
those bushes you are looking at should work to fix the problem but they wont be quite as tight as the factory type setup in good condition

do a google image search of rose joint and you will see the difference

Do you happen to know if any of the U.S. Lancers, eclipses, or talons share such a rose joint? I would love to keep with factory, but am having a nightmare of a time finding the parts.

Thanks,

 

[DOUGMO]

those rose joint type bushes would be a evo thing only...

if you have a knock in the rear also its pretty common for the sway bar links to get play in them also and make noise...it would not affect your alignment though.


have you had a wheel alignment done on the back???

 

[deviantek]

those rose joint type bushes would be a evo thing only...

if you have a knock in the rear also its pretty common for the sway bar links to get play in them also and make noise...it would not affect your alignment though.


have you had a wheel alignment done on the back???

I haven't, but it's definitely not an alignment issue causing it. We lifted up the car and pulled on the wheels, and they moved laterally up and down (or in & out depending on how you describe it). The point of contact that looked to be causing that issue was the bushing as you could see it moving and clunking as we shook the wheel.

I'll check the sway bar links tomorrow to confirm there's no issue there, but that should only cause a stability issues with the wheels turning, not going in/out-up-down.

 

[Nick_CD9A]

Loving the matte black loook , did they use a matte clear for it ? Look's really tough dude 8)

 

[tUfRiCe]

awesome colour man mine is black too just not a cool ass black like ures

wouldnt put hks ssq they mess with the ecu flat spot dont boost properly etc on a stock one if u have aftermarket managemnet yeh go for it...

if u want noise upgrade ure cooler piping an dose the thing

 

[deviantek]

Loving the matte black loook , did they use a matte clear for it ? Look's really tough dude 8)

Nope. In fact, it's 1 gallon of Duplicolor Truck Bedliner which you can pick up for around $50 USD. It's more textured then a normal flat paint, but it's 10x tougher.

Only con is that it will fade very slightly as the texture fills with dirt, etc. But I had this in mind and wanted a more grey/silverish color

 

[CLuTZ]

I like it!

Now, all you need to do, is clean that intercooler up!

http://4gtuner.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8444&highlight=intercooler

 

[cbrkp]

looks stealthy 8) your truck bed liner didn;t turn out as I had thought ...a buddy did the same to his wrx and his surface looked like it would easily grate cheese :lolrough and bumpy)

 

[deviantek]

looks stealthy 8) your truck bed liner didn;t turn out as I had thought ...a buddy did the same to his wrx and his surface looked like it would easily grate cheese :lolrough and bumpy)

'

haha, yeah . I had actually seen it painted on an STi, which ended up leading me to paint mine in the same. when you rub your hand over the paint it definitely shows marks due to how rough it is, but it easily washes out.

But with that in mind, this type of paint has what I'd call a "break in period" in that it'll take maybe a month or so for dirt and grime to fill in the texture and be less abrasive/easily discolored by scuffing.

I plan to have the paint sprayed over for another 2 coats and after that I'm going to literally throw dirt all over the car, wash, & repeat a few times for a simulated 'break-in' =)

The car should fade to a solid dark grey silverish color as shown in this pic:

 

[GSRSOL]

that came up great!

 

[deviantek]

that came up great!

Thanks

Taking it in to the shop for another coat. They did a really poor job in areas and it looks like I got what I paid for ($2k USD+tax)... oh well -_-

 

[deviantek]

Could someone please help me confirm exactly what bushes I need to fix this (circled in red)? - (I was told it's a rose joint, though I'd have absolutely no idea where to find that part in the U.S., but I was also told replacement bushings should fix it as well:

Rear control arm, or rear trailing arm bushings?

A list of bushings located here. If you could, please tell me which I should have ordered to replace the bad part:

http://www.priracing.com/section.php/120/1/evo-3


Many thanks as always!