Quote on engineering
- Thread starter Gianni
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khubner1
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god i love qld $350 get you all plated up and ready drive
depends on the engineering place, some places charge on flat rate and some do per item.
got a quote for $900 for 20v 4age into an ae86 (+ suspension, brakes, seats, half cage, etc)
another one for $550 for just the efi to carby conversion (4ac to 4age).
can't remember which place but they came from the list from vicroads.
got a quote for $900 for 20v 4age into an ae86 (+ suspension, brakes, seats, half cage, etc)
another one for $550 for just the efi to carby conversion (4ac to 4age).
can't remember which place but they came from the list from vicroads.
Engineering costs depend on who does it, number of mods and what tests you need to have done to prove compliance to the ADR's that are effected after modification. Engineers pretty much run their own business so they can charge whatever price they want. They have to be a recognised signatory by your state's motoring authority. Look up VICROADS engineering signatories list to find out who in your area has the authority to certify your car. Costs have historically been as little as $300 to about $2500 or more. New rules have forced certifiers to take lots of photo evidence and document better as they are held more accountable nowadays and need to increase their insurance cover resulting in higher premiums. Be prepared for the costs to rise across the board as new laws spread throughout the states requiring certifiers to hold onto photo/document records and maintain incurance cover for every car they certify for a period of 7 years!!
Always speak to an engineer first to get the general gist of what they need you to do to prove compliance. Basically you will need a few tests carried out to validate your claim for certification. ie if an engineering signatory doesnt at least perform a physical inspection of the modifications and welding (if any), inspect a change of crossmembers and engine mounts, or requests a list of the modifcations carried out, results of a brake test at >40kmh, weighbridge docket, exhaust noise test and IM240 or equivalent emissions test, then I'd be consulting the engineer or looking for a better one. A good engineer will ask you many many questions about what you have done and what supporting evidence you have to back up why you think your vehicle would still comply to the ADR's... ie brake upgrade for example would be a manufacturer substitution from OEM GLXi small rotor single caliper setup to the larger EVO diameter rotor and twin piston calipers and brake booster etc that bolts on without modification if using GSR/EVO hubs. The more info you can provide to your engineer to back up your mods the better it would be for you as it saves you and him time and money. You learn along the way and the engineer would know he's not dealing with just another dead shit who just drove off the streets lol :lol: Read the new National Code of Practice for Light Vehicle Modifications which was reissued in January 2011. Read it entirely, without the motorbike and bus crap, and you would be in a better situation to understand what the engineer will be looking for plus it's good for your own personal development.
Here's some other helpful info for you: http://www.4gtuner.com/topic/14240-need-engineer-cert-in-nsw/page__p__184404__hl__engineering__fromsearch__1#entry184404
http://www.4gtuner.com/topic/14167-emissions-testing-in-nsw-where-how-and-what-to-expect/page__p__183260__hl__engineering__fromsearch__1#entry183260
http://evocoupe.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5745
http://evocoupe.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6678
Always speak to an engineer first to get the general gist of what they need you to do to prove compliance. Basically you will need a few tests carried out to validate your claim for certification. ie if an engineering signatory doesnt at least perform a physical inspection of the modifications and welding (if any), inspect a change of crossmembers and engine mounts, or requests a list of the modifcations carried out, results of a brake test at >40kmh, weighbridge docket, exhaust noise test and IM240 or equivalent emissions test, then I'd be consulting the engineer or looking for a better one. A good engineer will ask you many many questions about what you have done and what supporting evidence you have to back up why you think your vehicle would still comply to the ADR's... ie brake upgrade for example would be a manufacturer substitution from OEM GLXi small rotor single caliper setup to the larger EVO diameter rotor and twin piston calipers and brake booster etc that bolts on without modification if using GSR/EVO hubs. The more info you can provide to your engineer to back up your mods the better it would be for you as it saves you and him time and money. You learn along the way and the engineer would know he's not dealing with just another dead shit who just drove off the streets lol :lol: Read the new National Code of Practice for Light Vehicle Modifications which was reissued in January 2011. Read it entirely, without the motorbike and bus crap, and you would be in a better situation to understand what the engineer will be looking for plus it's good for your own personal development.
Here's some other helpful info for you: http://www.4gtuner.com/topic/14240-need-engineer-cert-in-nsw/page__p__184404__hl__engineering__fromsearch__1#entry184404
http://www.4gtuner.com/topic/14167-emissions-testing-in-nsw-where-how-and-what-to-expect/page__p__183260__hl__engineering__fromsearch__1#entry183260
http://evocoupe.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5745
http://evocoupe.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6678
This is the link for certified engineers in melbourne
http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/NR/rdonlyres/37B5A06A-8707-4B8A-B008-61E41411EC29/0/VASSListforpublication16Feb2011.pdf
This is the email I sent him. Anything else I should tell him Rob. U know my situation
Hi ......
My name is Gianni. I'm a friendsig ....... She recommended you to help get my car engineered
The car is a Mitsubishi cc coupe 1995. Current modifications are:
momo steering wheel leather (has soft centre so fairly sure it's ADR compliant)
17" wheels which will need to be engineered because the car cane stock with 14's
Fiberglass body kit
The car was originally a 1.5L 4g15
The motor going in is a 2L 4g63 (turbo)
The motor is from a Mitsubishi Evo 3 which has the same engine bay so no engine mounts need to be changed. The gear box will be upgraded to the larger Evo box aswell. Again mounts are the same.
Going from na to turbo I need an intercooler. I have stock Evo 3 cooler pipes. But still trying to find a cooler so may need to go aftermarket which means the cooler mounts may need to be changed
Radiator is upgraded to Evo 3 which again fits into original mounts
Front Brakes are already upgraded to the single pot lancer gsr brakes with slotted and drilled rotors. All bolt on. No modification needed
Rear brakes have been upgraded from drum to disk and larger caliper. All bolt on no modification needed
Drive shafts upgraded to the Evo driveshafts.
No welding or cutting is needed. The only difference is that the chassis is 10mm shorter.
Intake pipe is stock aswell. I can run a stock box or open pod filter (let me know which one you would prefer)
Exhaust will be a 2.5" dump pipe back. I'm sourcing a cat converter still (what would u prefer highflow, ceramic, ect)
Engine itself is stock. With no mods. Standard 2d05 turbo. Standard injectors. Stock ecu. Stock fuel pump
Any questions please let me know
Regards Gianni
http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/NR/rdonlyres/37B5A06A-8707-4B8A-B008-61E41411EC29/0/VASSListforpublication16Feb2011.pdf
This is the email I sent him. Anything else I should tell him Rob. U know my situation
Hi ......
My name is Gianni. I'm a friendsig ....... She recommended you to help get my car engineered
The car is a Mitsubishi cc coupe 1995. Current modifications are:
momo steering wheel leather (has soft centre so fairly sure it's ADR compliant)
17" wheels which will need to be engineered because the car cane stock with 14's
Fiberglass body kit
The car was originally a 1.5L 4g15
The motor going in is a 2L 4g63 (turbo)
The motor is from a Mitsubishi Evo 3 which has the same engine bay so no engine mounts need to be changed. The gear box will be upgraded to the larger Evo box aswell. Again mounts are the same.
Going from na to turbo I need an intercooler. I have stock Evo 3 cooler pipes. But still trying to find a cooler so may need to go aftermarket which means the cooler mounts may need to be changed
Radiator is upgraded to Evo 3 which again fits into original mounts
Front Brakes are already upgraded to the single pot lancer gsr brakes with slotted and drilled rotors. All bolt on. No modification needed
Rear brakes have been upgraded from drum to disk and larger caliper. All bolt on no modification needed
Drive shafts upgraded to the Evo driveshafts.
No welding or cutting is needed. The only difference is that the chassis is 10mm shorter.
Intake pipe is stock aswell. I can run a stock box or open pod filter (let me know which one you would prefer)
Exhaust will be a 2.5" dump pipe back. I'm sourcing a cat converter still (what would u prefer highflow, ceramic, ect)
Engine itself is stock. With no mods. Standard 2d05 turbo. Standard injectors. Stock ecu. Stock fuel pump
Any questions please let me know
Regards Gianni
When I got my coupe engineered as a FWD with the VR4 2.0 in it, the engineer I used (who is no longer in the game) did the following:
I told him that the motor, ECU and engine setup was from a Jap Spec VR4 - he confirmed that there were no real differences between the Jap Spec and Aus Spec emissions wise so no need to re-test.
General inspection of all the anti-pollution gear to ensure it was hooked up.
Noise test for the exhaust.
Brake test (taking the car to a set speed and hitting the brakes to ensure it stopped under a certain number of G's without locking up. This is what drove me to upgrade the drums to the rear to get the brake bias right.
General road test to ensure the speedo was calibrated right and it drove safely etc.
All up the inspection took around 3-4 hrs. The fact I kept everything stock from the half-cut (ECU, pollution gear, turbo, intercooler, etc), had 15" rims on it (2" bigger than standard 13" so OK), a compliant exhaust (cat and noise) meant it was very straightforward.
The only thing that took time was that I failed the initial brake test as I had upgraded to the bigger front brakes and kept the rear drums. As above - when I upgraded to the rear discs it all went smooth.
$1500 does sound expensive for what is a relatively straightforward job (if you do it all right). The fact you seem to be sourcing bits n pieces from various places will probably make it a bit more complicated as it's not really representative of a production built car that he can compare to.
I told him that the motor, ECU and engine setup was from a Jap Spec VR4 - he confirmed that there were no real differences between the Jap Spec and Aus Spec emissions wise so no need to re-test.
General inspection of all the anti-pollution gear to ensure it was hooked up.
Noise test for the exhaust.
Brake test (taking the car to a set speed and hitting the brakes to ensure it stopped under a certain number of G's without locking up. This is what drove me to upgrade the drums to the rear to get the brake bias right.
General road test to ensure the speedo was calibrated right and it drove safely etc.
All up the inspection took around 3-4 hrs. The fact I kept everything stock from the half-cut (ECU, pollution gear, turbo, intercooler, etc), had 15" rims on it (2" bigger than standard 13" so OK), a compliant exhaust (cat and noise) meant it was very straightforward.
The only thing that took time was that I failed the initial brake test as I had upgraded to the bigger front brakes and kept the rear drums. As above - when I upgraded to the rear discs it all went smooth.
$1500 does sound expensive for what is a relatively straightforward job (if you do it all right). The fact you seem to be sourcing bits n pieces from various places will probably make it a bit more complicated as it's not really representative of a production built car that he can compare to.
The motor is all stock Evo. Stock cooler pipes. Still trying to find a stock cooler. Stock ecu.
Brakes and driveline are gsr
Only aftermarket thing is the exhaust. It seams pretty standard and easy to me. I may be wrong. I just thought I'd give as much info as I could so I'm upfront about everything.
By what ur saying all they really need to do is test the braking. Make sure it's all bolted up tight. Check noise and emissions out of exhaust. And check the speedo is accurate. What are ur thoughts. I'll ring around some more
Brakes and driveline are gsr
Only aftermarket thing is the exhaust. It seams pretty standard and easy to me. I may be wrong. I just thought I'd give as much info as I could so I'm upfront about everything.
By what ur saying all they really need to do is test the braking. Make sure it's all bolted up tight. Check noise and emissions out of exhaust. And check the speedo is accurate. What are ur thoughts. I'll ring around some more
one important point enginr made is his engine is the same as an engine that was available in oz.
this then means the engine is ADR compliant which will make it less scarey than an evo engine.
My understanding (from a long time ago) is you should have brakes the same or bigger than the
car that the engine came from?
and what rob said
this then means the engine is ADR compliant which will make it less scarey than an evo engine.
My understanding (from a long time ago) is you should have brakes the same or bigger than the
car that the engine came from?
and what rob said
Oh. Forgot to mention this earlier. Very tired. The block is vr4 so will have vr4 engine numbers. The head is off an Evo. Could I then pass it off as a vr4 motor. Then it'll could be more straight forward like enginr went through.
