Re-tension the head

[Hypo]

Hi

I want to re-tension my head. Is their a particular order and or process that should be followed in particular around the order for the bolts?

Can someone also advise the torque setting required.


The manual says 20 + 90 degree turns +90 degree turns. Is the 90 degree turns at the maximum strenght or the 78 Nm?


Thanks

Edit 11B-38 tells all. Should I be attempting this at home?

 

[brisvr4]

Are you using stock gasket and head bolts?

 

[Hypo]

Nope has head studs and a Ralliart metal head gasket.

 

[EVO-00X]

The manual shows you which order to do the head bolts - see pic.
The 7 bolt EVO engines use 11mm headbolts. Because you're re-tensioning bolts, the first 78Nm (58 ft/lbs) pre-torque, then loosen to 20Nm + 1/4 + 1/4 method wouldnt be recommended IMO because the bolts are being re-used and would have already stretched a little. Therefore check the bolts for excessive stretch according to the spec. It says if they are 99.4mm+ you need to replace the bolts.
For your info, the VR4 engines (6 bolt) use a 12mm dia head bolt torqued to 95Nm (69 ft/lbs) with no 1/4 turn + 1/4 turn crap. Its a designated torque setting number.
Therefore you DO NOT want to torque the 11mm head bolts to the same spec as the 12mm headbolts!!!
Somewhere between the OEM 7-bolt 78Nm to a fair common medium of 86Nm would be considered the absolute torque limit.

edit: Are you re-tensioning because its leaking? If so, then because you have a Ralliart MLS gasket then why not just remove the head, clean surfaces, check for straightness, insert new ARP head studs, spray both sides of the headgasket with hylomar, then refit according to ARP head stud torque specs.

 

[Hypo]

I was going to try and do it prior to Saturday as I want to go to the track and I am not capable of removing the head.

I was going to have a crack at tensioning the bolts.

Assuming I wouldn't untension them at all but simply apply tension of 80nm.

I am getting pressure in the cooling system on the track. I am unsure if it is due to this or the fact that I should be running a 1.3 bar radiator cap. I figure this can't harm anything redoing them.

 

[brisvr4]

So it has arp studs? If so tension to what they recommend.

 

[robevo]

if its arp studs just tension them to the required specs.You wont be doing any harm

 

[Hypo]

I know that I have 11mm studs but I am unsure of the fastener tensile strength.

http://arp-bolts.com/pages/technical_torque_us.shtml

 

[86psi]

if they are arp it should be stamped on the top of the stud where the allen key goes. that should tell you what type of studs you have

 

[JETGSR]

I've spoken to a few guys about this. and they all said crack the nut back first then retorque to the required torque.
if you just try and drag it around more they wont be right because you have to break the tension on the nut which will probably be higher then your
want torque setting. apparently ......

I would crack them in the correct sequence and retighten each one as you go. ie: loosen one - tighten up to the desired spec, then move to the next one in the correct sequence and so on.

what would you know ROB? its not like you have needed to over engineer anything on your cars. I would love to know some of the specs of your motors!!! if only we all could see 9500 on the tacho (and it hold togeather)
I heard on the grape vine you have down graded??? yellow not your favourite colour anymore?

 

[robevo]

lol Troy, thats the right way to do it.
Still loving the yellow

 

[MDK87]

I'm sorry to talk off-topic but just one quick question and I'll be gone, what do you gurus think is better for use on MLS head gaskets - hylomar or that copper spray stuff that Permatex make?
Cheers!

 

[ENGINR]

I didn't use any spray on my HKS metal multi-layer head gasket.

 

[bazeng]

You don't need to spray anything on most mls gaskets as they usually have their own coating (usually dark colour). No point putting a coating on a coating. If reusing a gasket i would but not if new.

As described above, follow the sequence if the manual (pretty much inside out). Do not let the seal of the gasket break! Complete the below sequence one nut at a time.

1. Undo the nut, turning it so the nut gets to the to of the stud
2. Using a flat headed screw driver to apply moly lube to the bottom of the nut
3. Re torque back down to spec.
4. Repeat for all.

I initially removed the nut, but found it annoying getting it back on. I used a magnet, long nose pliers and it just took too much time. A few drops also gave me a few scares.

Remember to do it cold.

 

[Hypo]

I can't see how I can get this wrong.

Do I need lubricant to retension?

 

[EVO-00X]

Ahah... so now we know you have ARP head studs not oem head bolts lol. Arp do recommend to use the moly lube on the nuts as well. Look in the tech stickies section in this sub forum to find arp recommended torque settings.

 

[Hypo]

Thanks

80ft-lbs of torque.

 

[EVO-00X]

Hylomar spray on reused headgaskets is a must do. Its optional to do on new headgaskets but i still give them a light spray regardless. If you have ever sprayed the stuff you know it sprays on as a fine coat, so IMO its not going to cause any dramas and it serves as some added protection. Its always been one of those things engine builders debate so it comes down to personal choice.

 

[Hypo]

Maybe I am missing something but there is no 7.

Should one of the 10's be number 7?

 

[EVO-00X]

Number 7 should be the one in the far right bottom corner, under number 9 lol