Rewiring!

[Entaran]

Has anyone else attempted to rewire their headlight looms?

Got photos of the final job with the connectors and stuff? I'm doing mine atm and I want to compare my workmanship!

My stuff's all connected via molex connectors and colour coded according to where the wires go, you can follow each connector from the original cut all the way out to the lights wherever they are.

Soldering takes a LOT of time!

 

[Entaran]

This is a picture of the first connector in the parker light rewire loom. Prior to being conduited and elec taped at regular intervals.

I'm using green for parkers, red for headlights, I don't have to touch the highbeams so that'll be unmarked.

Same with indicators, don't have to touch those either.

 

[JayRome]

reason for the re-wire? was planning to re do mine but with HID's...

 

[Entaran]

a spec bar to jspec facelift bar.

New foggies etc.

HID's will be done eventually. but it'll be a plug and play job then

 

[JayRome]

ohhhhh cools well in that case i have done it already, aspec (i think) bar on a GSR, no wires at all on the car so its basicly a new loom from scratch. just remember to ground all the lights well, try and keep the ground short, and use thick gauge wires on the foggies.

 

[bazeng]

i was about to do this but decided to retain the auspec lights..

 

[tharaka]

are you going to do a projector retrofit to use HIDs?

 

[Entaran]

Nope. Direct swap with the installation of remote ballasts.

 

[tharaka]

Nope. Direct swap with the installation of remote ballasts.

you do realise they will be almost useless in halogen reflector housings right?

 

[Entaran]

Actually they aren't. I already run a similar system on my landcruiser and they made a remarkable difference.

Maybe some brands are, but this brand actually works well.

 

[tharaka]

Actually they aren't. I already run a similar system on my landcruiser and they made a remarkable difference.

Maybe some brands are, but this brand actually works well.

http://www.intellexual.net/hid.html

 

[bazeng]

I've installed a HID kit into a HONDA ACCORD, the differences included

cool blue light and power up..
thats it!

i think visibility is meant to be poorer (but thats what ppl say)
i didn't actually test it at night

it was more for rice purposes..
the customer drove a HONDA, what do you expect?

 

[tharaka]

4300k is the best temperature
anything higher and the light becomes more blue, which is useless in the rain and not as bright

also, because the hid bulb is longer than a halogen bulb, putting it into a halogen refelctor, or even a halogen projector gives you horrible glare, and hotspots
so basically, the light wont be on the road, it will just be everywhere

 

[Entaran]

4300k is the best temperature
anything higher and the light becomes more blue, which is useless in the rain and not as bright

also, because the hid bulb is longer than a halogen bulb, putting it into a halogen refelctor, or even a halogen projector gives you horrible glare, and hotspots
so basically, the light wont be on the road, it will just be everywhere

And somehow this has gone wildly off topic, but in any case.

I believe I said that I -already- run one of these systems in my landcruiser and it produced a noticeable effect. I really don't give a flying **** what a website says when I have real world proof right here in my driveway.

If it doesn't do **** on the vr4 I really don't care, I'll look into a projector retrofit at a later stage.

As for your comment on lighting heat ranges, it's obvious you failed physics. True daylight is 5900 kelvin which means 6k is the best heat range for perfectly white light. Cheers!

Back on topic, rob323... you've done something like this haven't you?

 

[Entaran]

In the interests of not looking like a complete cockhead I will agree with the site and say that glare will be produced, but the vr4 won't be used for extended nighttime road trips so it's a nonissue AT THIS STAGE.


In the interests of fairness, the landcruiser runs late model projector style headlights which are designed for a HID enclosure and thus it works wonderfully. I hadn't really looked into the effects of the standard housing. Looks like I will have to retrofit at some stage.

 

[tharaka]

4300k is the best temperature
anything higher and the light becomes more blue, which is useless in the rain and not as bright

also, because the hid bulb is longer than a halogen bulb, putting it into a halogen refelctor, or even a halogen projector gives you horrible glare, and hotspots
so basically, the light wont be on the road, it will just be everywhere

And somehow this has gone wildly off topic, but in any case.

I believe I said that I -already- run one of these systems in my landcruiser and it produced a noticeable effect. I really don't give a flying **** what a website says when I have real world proof right here in my driveway.

If it doesn't do **** on the vr4 I really don't care, I'll look into a projector retrofit at a later stage.

As for your comment on lighting heat ranges, it's obvious you failed physics. True daylight is 5900 kelvin which means 6k is the best heat range for perfectly white light. Cheers!

Back on topic, rob323... you've done something like this haven't you?

i really would've expected you of all people to know better

mmm, looks blue to me? :roll:

 

[Entaran]

Read following post while you were still writing this.

I concede defeat.

 

[tharaka]

anyway back onto the topic of headlights
are you using the single bulb corners?
how are you going to wire the projector foglights?

 

[Entaran]

I have single bulb amber corners. The factory aspec loom to the indicators is long enough to pull back through and reroute where it has to go. Add some conduit for protectiona gainst sharp edges and you're done.

You have to make some minor cutting mods to the connector on the actual indicator globe then attach some tape so it won't vibrate loose. You physically cut off the "clip" part of the connector or the connector won't go on. Otherwise there's no mod involved there.

The projector and e0 headlights (which have the internal parker) have the parker loom jumped at the corner connection (aspec have parker corner) and the green wire terminated as the jspec use standard +/- not +/+/- switched connectors. The red/green is pos, red/white is neg and I ran those wires down to the "round" bulb on the projector foggie and the parker globe in the headlight. So the headlight will light up a little bit and i'll have a full beam parker for cruising in twilight.

The headlight loom was cut and jumped about 2 inches prior to the plug intot he actual globe of the headlight. You need ot be careful because it's +/+/- switched yet both +'s are constantly on. If you grab the wrong wire, it'll superheat the jumped wire heading down to the "rectangle" light on the foggies as it's the 12/12 low/high switched wire. The wires you want are red/white negative and red/green (central one) posiitve. The one that is red/green and loops around the plug on the far side (you'll know if you look), is the one you do NOT want to cut or change. I cut both on one side because I was figuring this out the hard way.

Everything is molex connected and has strips of coloured gaffa around it so you can trace wiring looms back to where I cut into the factory loom. From what i've seen, full operation on the car standing still doesn't overheat any loom for 2 hours at least until they start to get noticeably warm. So with some airflow it should be fine for any use.

I posted some pics in my entaran.team4g.com site to show which way the lights are going to work. except the parker is just sitting up ontop of the battery facing at the driver because I was fiddling with the headlight switch and taking photos at the same time.