Rollcage - Cost

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Hypo

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Joined
Jul 18, 2006
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What prices have people been quoted or paid for a rollcage.

I had a price today of $2700
Includes

  • 6 Point Roll Cage
  • Side Intrusion Bars from the rear legs to the front legs
  • Harness Bar
  • Hoop Brace bar
  • Roof Brace Bar
Opinions comments?
 
yes fully check the cage before you use it,

i was at brown davis and they pulled out a cage which was half welded where you could see it, the other side was still open (no welds) and would have become more of a hazad them a help, they have kept it to show other customers
 
SIVART said:
yes fully check the cage before you use it,

i was at brown davis and they pulled out a cage which was half welded where you could see it, the other side was still open (no welds) and would have become more of a hazad them a help, they have kept it to show other customers

that would be more common than you think trav, thats why its worth sticking with the good,reputable guysand ask them how they weld over the top of the cage.

there are a few ways to do it like removing the roof skin completely(like daves) or you can have the cage lowered through the floor so its sits down from the roof allowing more room to weld it properly

either way its a very important decision
 
SIVART said:
yes fully check the cage before you use it,

i was at brown davis and they pulled out a cage which was half welded where you could see it, the other side was still open (no welds) and would have become more of a hazad them a help, they have kept it to show other customers

9 years ago, I was working for a chassis builder /race car fabricator, and In the space of 12months we pulled out 3 full cages that had all been knocked back by scrutineers and they came our workshop to get a real full cage fitted that passes certification by motorsport governing bodies.

He's got a awesome tricks & methods for welding in cages ;) I learnt lots off him in 4 years I was working there!

Mostly there are more people than you think that have no idea and a tonne of cash to waste building fantasy's without research and hard facts.
 
yeh its not to bad, it depends on what other bars etc you get with it..

I paid $2800 installed for the cage in the new Evo.. its full tower to tower. From Walker Chassis in Adelaide. Its CAMS approved and made of fully compliant mild steel, with the correct lager diameter main hoop. (no need for A FIA cage unless you are running a homologated car in events where that is required)
IMG_0509.jpg

Image008-1.jpg

Image023.jpg

cost included everything, i just took the shell to him and picked it up 4 days later.
cheers
Lewis
 
DOUGMO said:
there are a few ways to do it like removing the roof skin completely(like daves) or you can have the cage lowered through the floor so its sits down from the roof allowing more room to weld it properly

the last cage I had to fit there was about 1/2" around the top each side ( main hoop to front legs )that I couldn't mig
that small section was done with a stick welder and a mirror

I prefur to do my own cages and I trust my work
in fact I made my own mandels to bend 38.1 and 44.45 tube
 
If you haven't already Hypo, talk to Keith from KCF about side intrusion bars and the recent problems with the Qld Police.
Also, decide on whether you want to keep the factory inertial reel seatbelts as that can determine hoop position and a couple of other things.
For what you do with the car, do you want the intrusion bars for strength (chassis bracing) or safety? I would imagine the chances of you going sideways into a big tree would pretty fairly slim?

Be prepared to strip the car bare before you give it to someone to put the cage in. I have heard of several people that spend ages trying to track down electrical gremlins only to find out that bits of welding splatter have burnt through wires and causing them to short out.

And once you get the car back, then there's the fun part of cleaning the cage and painting it.

And I wish I paid that much for my cage, If I had, I might have gotten a decent job of it and not have to fix up alot of it.
 
Anywhere between 2-3 grand for a 6 point roll cage, mine was double that but mine is pretty comprehensive

MMS FTW
 
rob323 said:
If you haven't already Hypo, talk to Keith from KCF about side intrusion bars and the recent problems with the Qld Police.
Also, decide on whether you want to keep the factory inertial reel seatbelts as that can determine hoop position and a couple of other things.
For what you do with the car, do you want the intrusion bars for strength (chassis bracing) or safety? I would imagine the chances of you going sideways into a big tree would pretty fairly slim?

Be prepared to strip the car bare before you give it to someone to put the cage in. I have heard of several people that spend ages trying to track down electrical gremlins only to find out that bits of welding splatter have burnt through wires and causing them to short out.

And once you get the car back, then there's the fun part of cleaning the cage and painting it.

And I wish I paid that much for my cage, If I had, I might have gotten a decent job of it and not have to fix up alot of it.

I was out at Lakeside on the weekend and the fact I was doing 190ish through the kink it has hammered home that if I wish to continue then I am going to need a cage.

The guys name who quoted this cage is Nathan and he used to work for KCF before recntly starting his own business.

I will be removing everything from the car including all wiring so that he can have free reign.

I might give KCF one more call as this was last year and maybe the GFC will have softened his prices a little bit.

Also just spoke with QT and they stated that side intrusion bars are allowed in the event that they do not obstruct the entry and exit to the vehicle which is impossible.

If I have restricted registration can I then have the full kit?

Wondering if it would be better to have a race car and not worry about a street driven car.
 
Hypo said:
The guys name who quoted this cage is Nathan and he used to work for KCF before recently starting his own business.
Yes I know Nathan, he used to have a shop in Brendale, not sure where he is working from now though.

I might give KCF one more call as this was last year and maybe the GFC will have softened his prices a little bit.
Unlikely but you never know.

Also just spoke with QT and they stated that side intrusion bars are allowed in the event that they do not obstruct the entry and exit to the vehicle which is impossible.
The only way you can do it is to have bolt in intrusion bars, but after a while, your holes will not line up and you won't be able to bolt them in anymore. Again, worth talking to Keith about all this.

If I have restricted registration can I then have the full kit?
here's the bullshit part - No. Well not entirely true. If the car was brought in "for race/ rally only" then yes you can as you don't have to comply with ADR's. If you have an Aussie delivered car (like I do), then no you can't cause the ADR's apply. As far as an imported car goes, then I guess it would depend if it was brought in as a personal import (therefore no adr's) or whether it was complied here. Bit of a grey area that one.

Wondering if it would be better to have a race car and not worry about a street driven car.
In a perfect world..... you already know the answer to that.
 
Why would the holes for bolt in side intrusion bars eventually mis-align? Reason I ask is that I'm thinking of this option in my car.
 
ENGINR said:
Why would the holes for bolt in side intrusion bars eventually mis-align? Reason I ask is that I'm thinking of this option in my car.

Cars flex and change over time. I'll only take the bolt hole to shift 2mm and you wont be able to get the bolt started. Of course you could try slotting the hole in the bar, but i'm not sure how legal that'd be.
 
As mentioned above, cars sag and flex over time. One rally is usually enough for the bolt holes to misalign and require slotting, you may get away with it in a road/ strip/ track car as it certainly wouldn't cop the pounding that a rally car gets.

You would have to look at the ROPS section of the CAMS manual to see if slotted holes are allowed, but, if you got those intrusion bars for the purpose of adding to the rigidity of the car, then a slotted hole is going to stuff that idea.
 
Hypo said:
Wondering if it would be better to have a race car and not worry about a street driven car.

as said on Evo Oz, yes x10,000... spend a few extra bucks and get a cheap tow car.. (you can get a ELfalcon or somthing like that cheap.. ive got one forsale if your keen) and hire a trailer.. doing that your much better off in the long run.. not to mention safer by having a propper cage..
 

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