Roof rust dilemma

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bennygsr

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2006
Messages
148
Location
Melbourne
My otherwise very good condition evo1 has the dreaded roof rust. (Small brown specs now showing through the top of roof) .

I've read nearly every roof rust thread and the consensus is that is something one can do themselves, but frankly I think it's above my level - and I'd like to get this done properly. Not only that, the time is an issue too.

What I'd like to know is: if I can do some basics, like taking seats out etc. how much could I expect to pay, and can anyone recommend a melb workshop that would do a good job and charge fairly?

Then comes the issue that I am not sure how much longer I will keep the car- and the answer to above may help paint my picture. So, do I consider selling now (to someone who'll look after it and keep it original!!), and save myself the hassle? However it's fair to say I'm pretty attached to the car and not sure I'm quite ready to part with it!

Last question is : are the proton parts still easy to get and stiill the way to go?
 
is it a genuine evo 1 or a mocked up gsr? the answer to the above will dictate my answer

if gsr. removing the roof lining etc and treating it from both the under and over side will make it "ok" for quite some time done porperly

if genuine evo 1 do it the right way. this is somewhat expensive but if it's a genuine evo it deserve this treatment. buy a brand new roof skin and turrets and replace the roof completely.
 
Hey Bjorn, I have a panel beater in Braeside who is great. I can PM you details if you like. Anything you can do yourself will save money. I always try and keep the work to be done by the professional to what they do professionally.
 
Hey Bjorn, I have a panel beater in Braeside who is great. I can PM you details if you like. Anything you can do yourself will save money. I always try and keep the work to be done by the professional to what they do professionally.
 
But breaking the rear glass will not help anyone.

Would think you can replace roof without removing seats.
Talk to the panel guy, he will tell you what he can get you to remove for him. Probably not even the roof lining, as it may have to go out through the windscreen.
If you have to drill spot welds, get the 10mm hole saw on ebay. Use with cordless drill, slow but lots of pressure. They work real good.
 
Its usually the front glass that breaks...not the rear. When I did my Evos roof the rear window came out no probs.

I would remove the seats if you want to preserve the material from burns, dust etc but any good panel beater should cover the interior with fire proof blankets etc.

Unless you know what you are doing I would not be drilling anything off by yourself especially if it needs to be driven somewhere afterwards.
 
bennygsr said:
I've read nearly every roof rust thread and the consensus is that is something one can do themselves, but frankly I think it's above my level - and I'd like to get this done properly. Not only that, the time is an issue too.
This is where my comments stemmed from George.
 
Drilling a roof off, and potentially damaging windscreens is too much for me I reckon. Doing bolts and nuts etc. for seats etc, yeah sure but even those little plastic clips for holding carpets and plastic mouldings that break easily give me the shits! So I might get a couple of quotes.

The thing is, I am worried that panel beaters won't care enough about it because it's not like a A 1960s classic and when they smash my rear window with the original ralliart sticker, they'll just be like "oh we'll"

Thanks for the info . If it's too expensive for me given I might sell it one day anyway, the for sale forum will be first to know! :)
 
that rear window is pretty hard to get...last quote I had was 1200 ex japan. local lancer doesnt have the wiper hole but is cheap and insurance will cover that.

The rear windows are just toughened glass one piece so are pretty good to get out unlike a laminated screen
 
IF you get it done and the panel beater breaks the rear glass, my mate has 2 spare EVO rear windows with wiper holes he may part with
 
I did mine five years ago by simply cutting the braces down and sand blasting out the rust. Had it bogged sanded and resprayed and new selastic installed and the. The roof bars welded back up. Cheap and cheerful and it hasn't returned.

On another note when you sell a car you can't dictate the outcome. If someone wants to paint it link and put tri chrome wheels on it that is their decision.
 

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