RVR Serviced, Timing Belt Loose??

[penngwyne]

Had a look at the belt after driving round for a while and found I acn easily move the belt up and down about 2cm with not much pressure between the cam sprockets

This doesnt seem right

I can slide it sideways on the sprockets too

 

[Richard]

Fuel Filter?
Spark Plugs?
Be prepared to need a timing belt tensioner,
It's a prick of a thing to work on so lucky your getting someone else to do it.

 

[Jonson]

Mechanics get tripped up doin 4g63 DOHC belts. Make sure he gets the balance shaft and oil pump perfect. I would be replacing the hydraulic tensioner as more than likely the car has hit 200,000k's not 100,000k's. Import K's can never be trusted.
As for Driveline, whatever an Evo 3 takes.

 

[EVO-00X]

Yeah timing belt kit, waterpump, fluids all round, plugs, oil/fuel/air filters, disassembly and cleaning of the internals of the intercooler and pipes too, brakes should be looked at if you havent already done so, and a full radiator flush and clean, run a check on the 02 sensor, and a visual inspection of the spark plug wires as well.

Just some info that might help you on your way with the fluids:
* Castrol VMX-M 75W/85 API GL-4 or Syntrans 75/85 GL-4 for non LSD AWD or FWD gearboxes (or Syntrax 75W/90 if LSD) - 2.2L AWD
* Castrol LSX-90 SAE 90 APL GL-5 for the transfer case - 800ml
* Castrol SAF-XA 80w/140 GL5 for the mech LSD rear diff; or LSX-90 with Mitsu friction modifier (MB664682) - 800ml
* Castrol Sport Edge 10w-60 for the engine - 4.5L
* Castrol Response Super DOT 4 (grey bottle) - Brake and clutch fluid - 500ml
* Castrol Anti-Freeze/ Anti-Boil - Radiator - 1 bottle to cover 5L radiator and 650ml overflow.

 

[milkandoj]

Castrol Sport Edge 10w-60 for the engine - 4.5L

I would think that a 10W60 would be a bit too thick for a street car, might be the goods if your racing and the oil is getting real hot, so you go a bit thicker to start with, or got only an oil cooled turbo.

If im not mistaken the '10w' is the viscocity when the oil is cold for eg, at startup. (off memory its measured at 40*C) This is good for our motors.

The '60' is the viscosity of the oil when its hot, the running temp of the oil. (measured at 100*C)
This would be way too thick when its warm. You want somehting more around the 40 value when its warm.

Wouldn't you be looking at somthing more like a 10W 40 or, 15W40.

Or even in you handbook, or download th evo 3 one, and look at the temperature range chart. If you live where it snows it will ask for something like a 5W30. And where its boiling hot a 15W40 (or maybe even 20W50). 10W40 or 15W40 would make sense.

On the other hand, Castrol edge 0W40 is too thin on startup for our cars, would be fine once it heats up.
It would be great in a newer engine that asks for it, or if you live where it snows.
I dont think anything in the castrol edge range suits an early 4g63 driven on the street.

 

[brisvr4]

I'd be replacing ALL of the bearings associated with the timing and balance shafts as well as the tensioners ( you may already have these )
As far as engine oil goes I just use Magnatec.

 

[SIVART]

cam and crank seals

 

[Entaran]

I'll dig up the major service checklist for you over the next few days. It includes a few seals, for sure the mitsub will have a couple of minor oil leaks by now such as the rocker cover gasket.

Also, if you don't put a full timing belt kit into it (pulleys, tensioner etc) you're asking for a failure.

 

[mannynz]

you should replace thermostat too.

 

[EVO-00X]

I would think that a 10W60 would be a bit too thick for a street car

Yeah the list I did was a direct copy and paste from my own coupe fluids. Its intent was to show an example of the kinds of fluids and volumes he will be looking at replacing

 

[penngwyne]

Thanks you all for all of that. It's just getting more and more complicated. I'll dig back into the ASA and have a look for the extra parts. Have so far been able to source all the bits from a (nearly) local Mitsi dealer. (I was pretty damn pleased with myself just for getting the correct radiator cap)
It is quite hard to find specifics on the web.
Look forward to seeing the checklist.

 

[Jonson]

the numbers in the oil relate to the ambient temperature....so 10w40 means that it is recommended for low temps of 10 degrees celcius and the highest temp of 40 degrees celcius ambient temp. Obviously the numbers can be directly relayed to thickness/viscosity, so the higher the number the thicker the oil needs to be due to the thinning of the oil by the higher temps it would be running in.

 

[penngwyne]

OK I didn't really want this thread to be a discussion on oil viscosity but I did a little research and found that:

"The temperature requirements set for oil by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) is 0 degrees F (low) and 210 degrees F (high)." (Approx -15 deg C and 100 deg C).

There are 11 grades 0w,5w,10w,15w,20w,25w, (Winter grades) &
20,30,40,50,60 summer grades.

Note: The "W" stands for Winter & we are only talking about engine oils

Oil weight, or viscosity, refers to how thick or thin the oil is and is based on how long it takes oil to pass through a specific standard size hole at a specific temp (usually 100 C). Therefore 10 flows faster than 40.

Multi-grade oil is made to be thinner at low temps as we need it to run freely when our motors are cold. At the higher temps it has to be thick enough to protect the moving parts.

So a 10W30 would be thinner at high temperature than a 10W40 and the same viscosity at the lower temp.

You should always stick to the recommended viscosity rating for your engine. (Which is why I asked in the first place)

Although you guys with the big Kw and highly stressed engines would obviously need something a bit better?

Note that the way gear oils are rated is different from engine oils. Apparently a 75W90 gear oil is similar in viscosity (but NOT interchangeable) with a 10W40 engine oil.
(Wikipedia is full of good info)

Good grief why am I not in bed sleeping?

 

[penngwyne]

Damn I wish I had gone to Meek first I would have saved a few $$.
Got all the bits now (less plugs),tensioner, seals, pulleys, I'm glad it only happens every 100,000
I'm getting a bit paranoid looking at other threads about belts breaking close to 100,000. Booked in for next Monday.

 

[Jonson]

It's always better to be safe that sorry mate. Good on ya for caring about your car. Let us know how it goes and how much they charge ya.

 

[penngwyne]

Done. All I have to do now is hope it lasts for 100,000km
Pity the speedo has the trip meter reset in the way.
I'll have to crank up the GPS one quiet night.
Parts cost lots, still waiting for the labour bill.
Wasn't too much (but there was some) swearing coming from the garage, so I think he got on OK with it.
Next trick is probably a cruise control and an immobiliser?
Maybe 3" exhaust as doom wants me to do?

 

[Entaran]

I loves my cruise control lots and lots.

Also, well done. Mitsub recommends 15w50 for early 4g63's.

 

[penngwyne]

By the way how slushy are the auto boxes?
Mine seems to take a while to engage after starting (especially reverse) and when cold doesn't want to do too much under 2000 rpm.
Would a larger turbo kill the AT?
I'm a bit pissed I didn't look into it a little more as the manual has bigger turbo and more Kw. (Not that I'm a rev head but it's nice to know you can go when you need to)
Thought the wife would want to drive it but she's not at all interested.

 

[penngwyne]

What kind of cruise control? Is there a standard Mitsi one or do I need to go after market? I'd like something that looks as if it should be there if you know what I mean. Are they hard to fit or should I leave it to the experts? I really can't keep the damn thing at a constant speed in slightly hilly country.(but I do like it lots)!

 

[penngwyne]

More help wanted about timing belt

OK so I decided to have a quick look at the (new) timing belt after driving round for a while after the service.

I can deflect the belt about 2 cm between the cam sprockets with very light pressure between my thumb and finger.
I can also slide it sideways on the sprockets
Is this too loose?

I would have expected it to be somewhat firmer?

:unsure::unsure::unsure: