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absolutely, closed road, controlled conditions, professional stunt driving monkey, oh, and no transfercases were harmed in the making of this movie!
(mainly because I fitted a steel head Evo II transfer after splitting the stock alloy one in two!)
 
is this do-able for a long term driver, or would best best we north south mount it and do it right? cheers
 
That's fucking awesome!



Another thing to add onto my 'things to do to the VR4' list now. :D
 
you just need one of these to replace the viscous unit in the box.

then remove your front shafts and off you go

cvap sells them
 
any long term damage with the VCE?? parts that may need frequent changing with that setup, besides tires of course LoL :twisted:
 
Now that the Gearbos is 2wd, are the gear ratio's the same as if its still 4wd. When disabling the gearbox to 2wd for a fwd conversion or a rwd conversion, is the overall gear ratios changed.
 
3diamond said:
Now that the Gearbos is 2wd, are the gear ratio's the same as if its still 4wd. When disabling the gearbox to 2wd for a fwd conversion or a rwd conversion, is the overall gear ratios changed.


I had a FWD GSR galant, and it still did 100kph in 5th @ 3000rpm, with a locked 3.545 VR4 gearbox
 
jase said:
http://www.evolutionoz.net/forum/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=16496

hey guys, got a Locked coupling to suit VR4/EVO1-3 gearboxes. Is an easy conversion, and replaces your viscus coupling. has done low km's and is in perfect condition. Made by PPG.

looking for $250.

cvap also sells them but for $175 change over
 
DOUGMO said:
jase said:
http://www.evolutionoz.net/forum/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=16496

hey guys, got a Locked coupling to suit VR4/EVO1-3 gearboxes. Is an easy conversion, and replaces your viscus coupling. has done low km's and is in perfect condition. Made by PPG.

looking for $250.

cvap also sells them but for $175 change over

CVAP are machined done factory ones.. they are welded together then machined down.. not as strong as what jack is selling.. one piece full billet, cnc machined! now thats tough.,

Jon
 
With a vce eliminator your not eliminating the weakest link, that being the spider gears in the centre diff. I've had the side gears in the centre diff welded completely to the diff (not just tacked) so it's plenty strong.

mattrat said:
is this do-able for a long term driver, or would best best we north south mount it and do it right? cheers

I drove it for about a year with the locked centre and still 4wd, which puts much more stress on everything.

I did manage to destroy the stock transfer case (split it in half!) however, that was dropping the clutch at the revlimiter - in 2nd - whilst the car was rolling slightly backwards :oops:
(it handled plenty of 2nd gear rev limiter drops from stationary or rolling forwards though).

Realistically, unless your being very silly, there's not really enough grip to break anything :lol:

GVR40 said:
what diffs, and lsds do you have, pm me if you want

Welded centre diff, (v/c unit is in my shed now) and the rear is a plate LSD out of an 88 RS vr4 - 3 bolt axles - and has been shimmed tighter.

The only real downsides (apart from tires) are that it's easy to forget you no longer have masses of grip, which makes pulling out onto busy streets "interesting" and it's much slower over my favourite twisty roads.

and that it is very loose in the wet (as in, it'll step out sideways in 4th if you happen to be turning and hitting full boost at the same time, say for instance - pulling out to pass someone :shock:
 

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