Safe redline for 2.0 (Evo 3)
- Thread starter WindeX
- Start date
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Your pants after you throw a rod/piston out the side of your block :lol: High rpms is the biggest killer of engines so you'll really need to get stronger internals for your bottom end if you want to 'safely' go higher than this.
Its the 'high rpm' that basically means you need to build a strong and reliable bottom end and that means 'the works'. You dont just open the engine up to change to forged pistons and rods either. You should also invest in some ARP rod bolts, main bolts and headbolts as well as a decent headgasket. But it doesnt just stop there, high rpm can also translate into high friction and temperatures so you will need to upgrade bearings as well to ACL duraglide or race series. You have the option to change or modify the crank as well but most people choose not to touch it or knife edge it. If going for high rpm I would also remove the balance shafts. Another option would be to get a lightened flywheel as well. See, it doesnt just stop at the cams and valves eh? :lol:
CLuTZ
Diamonds are forever....
Im using an Eagle crank in my bottom end, along with a main cap girdle courtesy or kiggly racing, to keep those mains tight!
http://www.kigglyracing.com/parts/Main_Girdle.htm
http://www.kigglyracing.com/parts/Main_Girdle.htm
Hey Dre, thats seems like a good idea for hi-po engines as long as it gets a bore line hone 
Seems like any oil splashing onto the side walls of the block can still run straight back into the sump so thats ok. But geesh, Im a bit worried about the main bolts not screwing all the way into the block because of the extra thickness you need to stick out for the girdle; and depending on the material they used the expansion and contraction of the metal might actually provide enough tolerance for the mains nuts to come loose.
Because they use it pretty much for race only purposes where they would tear an engine down and rebuild it often it would be interesting to see how they stand the test the time without cracking the sump off reguilarly and checking the tension of the nuts after many kms
Seems like any oil splashing onto the side walls of the block can still run straight back into the sump so thats ok. But geesh, Im a bit worried about the main bolts not screwing all the way into the block because of the extra thickness you need to stick out for the girdle; and depending on the material they used the expansion and contraction of the metal might actually provide enough tolerance for the mains nuts to come loose. Because they use it pretty much for race only purposes where they would tear an engine down and rebuild it often it would be interesting to see how they stand the test the time without cracking the sump off reguilarly and checking the tension of the nuts after many kms
CLuTZ
Diamonds are forever....
You would want to at least take the sump off and give the bearings etc a check after you put $$$$ into a motor!
Check the install directions Rob~>
http://www.kigglyracing.com/parts/MG_Instructions.pdf
Sorry for going off topic
Apparently 7-bolt motors have these stock......
Check the install directions Rob~>
http://www.kigglyracing.com/parts/MG_Instructions.pdf
Sorry for going off topic
Apparently 7-bolt motors have these stock......
CLuTZ
Diamonds are forever....
Well we all know the VR4 4G63T was over engineered much like the FJ20T, so when they lightened the rotating mass of the 7-bolt motors then perhaps they needed some rigidity to counter act excessive end float?
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