Short shifter
- Thread starter Michael
- Start date
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4piknup
master of none
cut and shut yours?
i know its not as good as a short shifter though. i been looking at the gsr shifter on my wreck and thinking to cut it down
apparently proton ones fit and work fine
http://www.4gtuner.com/topic/11903-gsr-short-shifter-cusco-4-point-bracemore/
i know its not as good as a short shifter though. i been looking at the gsr shifter on my wreck and thinking to cut it down
apparently proton ones fit and work fine
http://www.4gtuner.com/topic/11903-gsr-short-shifter-cusco-4-point-bracemore/
mymidlifecrisis
Dean
Mine came from NZ. Try their Trademe site, I seen them there before.
Cheers
Cheers
khubner1
Moderator
i'm using one like evocpe posted and love it.
I wa thinking of building it myself from a stock shifter. Gonna start by shortening the stick. Chop a little out of the middle and move it down a bit so the stick is short.
Then with the east/west pivot. I'm going to extend the rod a little so that less movement means more pull/push of the cable.
With the north/south pivot. Same idea is to extend the rod so less movement means more push/pull of cable. Problem is that I can't go down too low or it'll hit the chassis. But also it cuts very close to the east/west rod at some swing points so might need to drop it down more to avoid or something similar.
I might try it this weeken with my old shifter
Then with the east/west pivot. I'm going to extend the rod a little so that less movement means more pull/push of the cable.
With the north/south pivot. Same idea is to extend the rod so less movement means more push/pull of cable. Problem is that I can't go down too low or it'll hit the chassis. But also it cuts very close to the east/west rod at some swing points so might need to drop it down more to avoid or something similar.
I might try it this weeken with my old shifter
khubner1
Moderator
most "short" shifters are the same length as their standard counterparts it's the pivot points that are different. my shifter only does north south movement (forward backward) and has made a significant difference to my shifting behavior used to grind gears alot. but my dodgy pivot ball and fork could have contributed to that. for the best results move the north south pivot point upwards leaving the stick as close to stock length as possible
khubner1
Moderator
yep
there's not alot of movement in the east west anyway.
there's not alot of movement in the east west anyway.
Fig 1 is my original idea for north/south movement. Notice pivot point in same place but by extending the bottom you shorten the distance it needs to pivot to reach the gear select spot. Also in doing so the throw of the hand is shortened as well atthe same height. That's if you extend the bottom. But if you move the whole rod down the same amount instead off extending you then get the same as above but a shorter stick at the top end so less hand movement again.
Fig 2 is k's idea as I understand it. Moving the pivot point up to me it looks like the grow and everything is the same. Just that the stick will be higher up (still same amount of hand movement). But from here we can shorten the stick down to original length and the throw will be reduced. Bottom end movement is still the same just less length on top. So same as just chopping the top like most people originally do. But instead of s really short stick it's still the stock length.
I think there are pros and cons to both.
Fig 1 you don't need to chop the stick just move it down so it'll be stronger. But modding you east/west so it avoids the née north/south will be needed.
Fig 2 is shortening the top of the stick (cut a section out and reweld so you still have your thread) which can be weaker. Also I have heard that it can put more stress on the rods but I don't see it being that bad.
On closer inspection. If I do a bit of a mix. Start by moving the pivot point higher using the frame of the shifter. Instead of shortening the whole rod, I can grind it off and then reweld it sitting at original hight. That dramatically changes the throw and keeps the same strength. I'll draw up an image soon
4piknup
master of none
steel ones from malaysia are only $30. i just waiting for a postage quote to come back. ali ones are $50 i think and adjustable ones are $60. divide myr by 3 to get roughly aussie dollars
let me find link.
here.
http://list.lelong.com.my/Auc/List/List.asp?DA=A&SubmitButton=Search&TheKeyword=proton+shifter&x=24&y=15&CategoryID=&PriceLBound=&PriceUBound=
i going the steel, because of what peasoup was saying, so i can weld if need be. my ali welding is still very sub par
let me find link.
here.
http://list.lelong.com.my/Auc/List/List.asp?DA=A&SubmitButton=Search&TheKeyword=proton+shifter&x=24&y=15&CategoryID=&PriceLBound=&PriceUBound=
i going the steel, because of what peasoup was saying, so i can weld if need be. my ali welding is still very sub par
khubner1
Moderator
simple as remove trim unbolt and swap( while your in ther install new/improvised bushes)
