Speacial rear brake tool?

4GTuner

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Sulusi Eteru

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Joined
Aug 4, 2014
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198
Location
Melbourne VICTORIA
Has anyone here actually compressed the rear caliper piston when changing pads/rotors?

Its the last job on my frickin' overhaul thats taken way too long to do (Im over it) and from my little research that Ive done it looks like the rear caliper piston needs to be slowly twisted in, not pushed, by using a special tool that matches the pattern on the piston itself.

Can anyone confirm this?...actually, I probably already know that this is the case but has anyone had any experience with this and where they got this special tool from??

FRICKEN HECK!?!?!!!! AAARRRGGGGHHHHHH'!?!?!?!!!!
 
I totally cheated when I did mine and used a G clamp. I put the screw in part of the clamp on the piston and used that to screw the piston in. The friction of the clamp head on the piston face was enough to make it rotate as I wound the clamp in. I take no responsibility for anything that should happen if you use this method.

Everyone else feel free to call me as bodgy as hell and tell QUKNEZ not to do this.
 
Cheers guys for that. After spending all last week doing the front rotors/pads, lifters/head change, oil/coolant flush and refill and gear linkage fix, this was the last leg of the journey and to come to this!!! Aaarrgghhh! lol

I have to grab this tool first thing in the morning and do these rear brakes quick-smart before avo shift!

Cheers again guys :thumbsup:
 
if you do need to wind the piston back in you can use the tool that you use to tighten a grinding wheel onto a grinder
 
So now I gotta take it all apart again coz I didnt reset the handbrake properly :fuuuuu:

Just to clarify guys, I release the handbrake, loosen the handbrake nut, take calipers off, handbrake cables, wind both piston's in, pump brakes to reset calipers (for how long exactly??...not sure) I'm assuming once that is all done then I reassemble calipers, handbrake cables, tighten handbrake nut to allow for around 5-6 handbrake clicks?
 

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