Starting my Automatic swap on the AMG Galant

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bazeng

bazeng

Gday maaaate
Joined
Apr 2, 2005
Messages
9,899
Location
Melbourne
Hi Guys,

So I'm starting the swap.
I currently have:
- Auto shifter and related mechanical cables / electronics etc off a GALANT SE.

My options are:
- Purchase a Galant VR4 Auto gearbox and bolt it straight in (locking the centre diff).
or
- Purchase a Galant SE Auto gearbox and bolt it straight in.


Kiggly believes that the stock flex plate and box will be fine with the power I currently have (300 front wheel kw).

It is a daily driver and I just want a simple easy to drive car. No shift box wanted, simply put it in D and drive.

Anybody know if this is achievable with the standard fwd Galant SE gearbox? Or does it have to be a VR4 box?

Any advice appreciated.

(CALLING ALDO!!!)
 
Ok. Update. Galant gsr auto box conversion completed. Tcu and transmission components.

Drive well on light throttle (up to 4000rpm. It broke coming onto boost.

Car starts but has no drive.

I believe something broke related to the converter.

Next option, Mitsubishi Magna transmission. They are bigger and better.

The plan is to see if a stock one fits and works it should. If successful, find another and build with goodies.

New donor box has been removed and will be installed very shortly.
 
c47c720c38826c53ae4d1c4bed4474dd.jpg
314b7ae081e9ca663d8d67bb1a0eb0e9.jpg


The TR runs a 6 bolt too!!

Sent from my LG-D802T using Tapatalk
 
Baz I have a VR4 flex plate here & it has the 6mm offset that your pic shows
in the centre, but it doesn't have the extra pressed offset that your pic
has on the 4 legs. You will have to measure your clearances for that.
Maybe the TR Magna bell housing has a different length & (starter motor throw)
The VR4 flex here has 2 of those 95mm diameter discs to suport the flex plate.
One has a surface rust round mark of the dowl hole from the crank. But no hole.
So the VR4 ran a 95mm disc on the crank & on the other side of the flex plate.
Not that it needs the extra disc on the crank. Discs are 1.5mm & flex is 2mm
The flex plate is meant to flex so the convertor doesn't chew inside the pump.
Make sure you have at least 5mm of slack between the flex-convertor-pump.
The box I built for Scott in Tas used a Kiggly flex & the convertor chewed
inside the pump bush & lost pressure & 3rd fried etc. Ongoing probs with it.
You can grind your manual crank dowl pin level or you could drill through
the 2mm flex & the inner extra 95mm disc "if you use one" Not the outer disc.
That is only 3.4mm of dowl if you use the inner disc behind the flex plate.
Think twice, grind & drill once. A one off AMG fwd auto sounds ok to me!!
Aldo
 
Hi Ben, I haven't removed an RVR flex from an RVR. One on the convertor side is enough.
The RVR flex can be put on either way. The 2 offset presses end up making it flat anyway.
Aldo
 
Hi All,

I'm pulling the F4A22 gearbox and putting in the F4A33.
I'm sussing out the wiring.

Now, the plugs are different on the TCU.
One is a 2 plug and the other is a 3 plug.

Which one is the better one to use?
Which ones can be modified (shift map).

The current F4A22 one is the 3 plug. The F4A33 is the 2 plug.
How many plugs on the RVR TCU?

Also, what is the role of the pulse generators and temp sensors with regards to the TCU?

Trying to learn about these autos a bit more so i get this conversion right.
 
RVR has 2 plugs Baz
Difference I dunno, I'll be trying to get out there today an trying to pick up where I left off
 
I'm not sure which models have it but I recall ya having to take the cover off, the eprom ones have the chip MD65
 

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