Starting my Automatic swap on the AMG Galant
- Thread starter bazeng
- Start date
Help Support 4GTuner:
That is the plan. Just going to get it running to obtain shift points required. Unless you think it can be done prior?
I'm planning to rewire the blue wire to my ecu also. At WOT it will trigger the relay which will activate the blue wire mod giving full pressure. Off wot it will retain the standard pressure that the tcu is targeting.
Let me know your thoughts.
I'm planning to rewire the blue wire to my ecu also. At WOT it will trigger the relay which will activate the blue wire mod giving full pressure. Off wot it will retain the standard pressure that the tcu is targeting.
Let me know your thoughts.
khubner1
Moderator
Would you mot be able to do that via a momentary switch on the accelerator pedal or a voltage switch attached to the tps.
Momentary on throttle when wot trigger the seitch and blue wire or for 15 bucks ill send you the jaycar voltage relay switch that i built to trigger mivec off the tps signal at wot dial in a tps voltage between 1 and 5v and the relay turns on.its also a 1 or the other relay so you could plug in the blue wire and run like factory when under wot and the flip it an earth when you need
Momentary on throttle when wot trigger the seitch and blue wire or for 15 bucks ill send you the jaycar voltage relay switch that i built to trigger mivec off the tps signal at wot dial in a tps voltage between 1 and 5v and the relay turns on.its also a 1 or the other relay so you could plug in the blue wire and run like factory when under wot and the flip it an earth when you need
That would work well but my Ecu can use the tps signal to do that already. Is an autronic so plenty of unused outputs available. Plus then I can program it to see wot and engine temp and trans temp before it allows high pressure shifts etc.
khubner1
Moderator
Well thats good
khubner1
Moderator
Nah not running aut also the f4a33 is also found in auto cc lancers
Rockabilly
Well-Known Member
Pressure rises with rpm. Your WOT pressure is your max. Adjust that valve body allen bolt to a 3mm gap.bazeng said:
A resistor on the blue wire is to make the PCS stop bleeding slightly earlier.
eg: At say 3k std the PCS bleeds off for 2sec & zero at 6k
Ad a resistor prob makes it bleed for 1.5sec at 3k & >>> zero at 6k
TCU remapping the min upshift points higher like mine = gear shift speeds as if you were driving a Manual mild
Aldo
So that adjustment you were referring to its the reducing pressure? I did see that on the valve body but didn't adjust dammit. Sump already sealed. I'll do it next time. Unless you think it is something worth doing? I was thinking I had to adjust the other one on the top of the valve body which required removal.Rockabilly said:
khubner1
Moderator
Cc fwd 1.8l auto sedan or wagonbazeng said:
The box is in the car . I'm having clearance issues. Seems like it is a 2G dsm style box but without the mounts on the bell housing.
There are a few options but I'm hoping that it is a change of engine brackets (front and rear). I'll need to make custom upper gearbox mount either on the gearbox side or chassis side. Then I'll need 27 spline cups into the front diff to mate to stock axels.
Clearance from TC to flex plate is good (about 5mm).
Lucky I have a heap of engine brackets on the shelf. I think I have the right combo to make it clear the k frame. The existing F4a22 brackets foul the rear kframe and side chassis rail .
Wish me luck.
There are a few options but I'm hoping that it is a change of engine brackets (front and rear). I'll need to make custom upper gearbox mount either on the gearbox side or chassis side. Then I'll need 27 spline cups into the front diff to mate to stock axels.
Clearance from TC to flex plate is good (about 5mm).
Lucky I have a heap of engine brackets on the shelf. I think I have the right combo to make it clear the k frame. The existing F4a22 brackets foul the rear kframe and side chassis rail .
Wish me luck.
Ok so I got it all to fit. The front roll stopper had to be swapped to a shorter one ( picture above... 2nd to the left)..
The rear block bracket stayed as per F4a22 which is the far left bracket in the picture above..
I had to change the mount on the kframe though to a shorter one..
This fixed all clearance issues..
Now I just need to finish welding the top trans mount to chassis..
I used a Vr4 Base plate and a Magna bush section to line it all up.. Now to Weld..
Then getting towed tomorrow to Havoc Fabrications to touch up the exhaust, redo the cold side intercooler pipe (transmission too big , needs new route), intake pipe, maybe redo airbag and catch can setup.. also adding a mid muffler or resonator.. Not far now.
The rear block bracket stayed as per F4a22 which is the far left bracket in the picture above..
I had to change the mount on the kframe though to a shorter one..
This fixed all clearance issues..
Now I just need to finish welding the top trans mount to chassis..
I used a Vr4 Base plate and a Magna bush section to line it all up.. Now to Weld..
Then getting towed tomorrow to Havoc Fabrications to touch up the exhaust, redo the cold side intercooler pipe (transmission too big , needs new route), intake pipe, maybe redo airbag and catch can setup.. also adding a mid muffler or resonator.. Not far now.
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