Ticking/Tapping on Start Up

[Hyper_Mike]

Hey guys,

So I have read and read and read all different threads and posts on this topic. On initial start up my engine has a ticking/tapping noise that goes away after about 20 seconds OR if i turn the car off and then straight back on again its gone also.

Now my question is, i have read that Liquid Moli Tappet noise additive is a great resolution however was wondering what is actually causing this? My car has done 133915kms and has just had a service/oil change. Im running Valvoline MaxLife™ 20W-50. Im running a Z411 oil filter. Should i be running a thinner oil?

http://www.valvoline.com.au/explore-our-products/all-products/engine-oil/passenger-car-motor-oil/maxlife-20w-50-motor-oil

Any advise from someone who has overcome this would be great!

Thanks, Mike

 

[Django]

The lash adjusters cause this. Very common on 4G63's. You are running a heavy oil being a 20-50W I wouldn't recommend it just for the reason that you want good flow through the oil ports through the motor. I run Penrite 10-40 semi synthetic and get Nolans noisy tappet product, can't remember the exact name of it (tappet stop?). Once you've run that for about 1000kms, change your oil and filter, put more additive in and it should go away. If not and you still have the noise all the time, which you don't anyway Mike, then consider replacing the lash adjusters and do the valve stem seals at the same time. The additives are fine to have in your oil for the life of the oil, eg 5, 000-10,000kms The holes in the adjusters are 1mm diameter standard and get blocked easily.

There are aftermarket ones that you can buy that have a 3mm bleed hole but I don't recommend them because the holes are so big that they bleed while stationary and are more suited for very high performance applications, like a race car or a drag car.

The recommended oil type for the 4g63t is 10-30W

 

[Benzo4gT]

+1 Later models use 3mm holes in the top of the HLAs to put more oil through to the valve gear stuff thingos Aftermarket seems to be the way to go, I'd hate to see the OEM price. Try the oil thing first, but for peace of mind 3mm HLAs would be the better solution IMHO.

 

[EV0300]

had this issue myself using 10-40 sometimes would last longer sometimes wouldnt happen at all, it got worse over time lasting longer and becoming more frequent. had the 3mm lifters put in when i had my cams done hasnt been noisy since.

 

[evo-gsr]

"There are aftermarket ones that you can buy that have a 3mm bleed hole but I don't recommend them because the holes are so big that they bleed while stationary and are more suited for very high performance applications, like a race car or a drag car."

^ what a load of shit that statement is...many people on here use the 3mm lifters to solve the ticking with success...including myself....Meek sell them too and have never mentioned being for very high performance blah blah blah.

 

[CLuTZ]

Proma MBL8- best cure on the market for noisy lifters, without having to spend money and time replacing them

 

[Hyper_Mike]

Hey CLuTZ,

Where abouts can i get it apart form their website?

Cheers, Mike

 

[CLuTZ]

I can get it for you- I think i'm still registered as a Pro-Ma Distributor

 

[Hyper_Mike]

Here is a quick vid of my engine after a 30 minute drive....sounds so horrible, I'm getting the new thinner oil, liqid moly additive and oil filter today just for the time being.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lQ3Ucr711V0&feature=youtu.be

I think the video makes it sound worse, but still shouldn't sound anything like that!

 

[Django]

yes of course Jamo, your ticking will always stop when getting new lifters... 3mm or standard size.... you have such a nice way of putting things... The 1mm diameter is better to run around as a daily driver because they wont bleed out overnight, they cost $180 OEM and I don't see why you would go aftermarket for them, especially for a 3mm diameter hole. The 3mm hole would only be necessary for a race application as I've said. They work well for people mainly because of their lack of maintenance of their oil.

I'd be interested to know if anyone that has 3mm doesn't get ticking upon initial startup after sitting for a while. Replacement shouldn't be necessary though as your situation and most others will just require additives and oil change, with filter.

Cheers

 

[EV0300]

^ pretty sure the later model evos use 3mm from factory mitsubishi actually revised the lifters i doubt the actual company would revise a part and recommend it if there was an issue like the one your stating

 

[evo-gsr]

↑ exactly...Django I dont beat around the bush...I tell it like it is. Like I said plenty of people on here that dont own race cars have the revised lifters so thats where my statement of " load of shit" stems from. Which others have backed up.

 

[evo-gsr]

Also...additives dont fix the problem they mask them. I know which I would prefer. This has been covered many times before and the consensus is that changing them to the 3mm revised lifters is the better option.

 

[deepsouth]

Sounds like a diesel... Check this out for some more info.

 

[Django]

The additives are designed to clean the lifters blocked holes, if you have a lifter that has failed, it will only mask the problem. If you find that you are still getting the tick after this; change your oil and filter, add stop tick stuff, change again after 1,000 kms and add more additive in, then by next change of oil and no additive if you are still getting the noise then you have a damaged lifter and should replace them.

My boss says the 3mm holes aren't necessary for these 2gen motors. He's the local engine rebuilder and does alot of performance builds and has been building there for over 20 years. I trust his word over anyone on here about builds, so I still say they aren't necessary. Mitsubishi will revise alot of things in the motor, mainly specs on sizes directed at power output. Put simply, they may have found that the 3mm were necessary for the later model motors and not so much these ones. But at the same time could be easily the same for what you have said and were actually too small.

I feel that the 1mm weren't so much too small, just that people hadn't been looking after their changes as well as they should have been and they have blocked up the holes, requiring additive to clean them out again.

I was going to go for the 3mm hole at first but he recommended the OEM and explained why so I will take his word for it.

Hence why I'm interested to know if people are getting noise upon initial startup?

Ultimately they are for keeping the valve clearance to zero and act purely as a dampener

Cheers

 

[EVOCPE]

The old 1mm lifters are now discontinued, Mitsubishi now only sell 3mm at $24.52 ea

I'd rather believe people who build/specialize these engines and has been through it all

 

[4piknup]

The hla can get worn in their bores as well and make a racket.

 

[Benzo4gT]

If you are running forged pistons, you'll get an unholy sound till it warms up, so for some of us noises are a daily thing. For most drivers that start their car and instantly drive off (my wife) I guess 1mm would be the way to go if the car was new and proper service intervals were adhered to, however by the time a car has changed hands a few times who knows what care has been taken. We are on this forum as people who modify their cars, so it's safe to assume we either drive them harder or have more goodies stuffed under the hood than the standard item Mitsubishi sold off the floor. Mitsubishi changed the design for some reason, and due to the fact that none of us were on the design team we only assume it is for better oil delivery to the valve move aroundy bits. Either way, with the exception of blocking oil squirters which are a check valve *ducks shit fight* there is no reason that more oil to things that move at the speed of awesome is a bad thing. But realistically, you'll get different answers from different people, personally I'd go with more lubrication, and that by the way applies to pretty much everything you'll ever do in life that is fun.

 

[evo-gsr]

Well there you go hey...thanks Mikey...and Ben.
End of story right there.

 

[Django]

I'll check at the shop cause my boss was saying the OEM ones that he gets are 1mm, so far as I know he still gets the OEM at 1mm, nearly end of story.

Aswell I'd rather shoot my own foot rather than buy OEM direct through mitsubishi! as I've said I can get OEM for $180 full set of 16...