86psi
Member
I'm running forged pistons and I don't get no awfull sounds til it warms up
Ticking/Tapping on Start Up
- Thread starter Hyper_Mike
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captainTeeBag
Donating Members
dont waste your money on adding crap additives to your oil. get good quality oil and the right viscosity. these days good performance synthetic oils have friction modifiers in them anyway and youll just fuck up what these guys have maded to help you by pouring additive in them. Check out the dsm guys in the states they have their heads around the correct oils and oil weights weights for older 4g63 engines. do some research dont just ask on forums you will get some bad info.
with your oil the number on the rating you need to look at is the cold viscosity rating. 10w30 is way to thin for our motors once it heats up. look for something with a low first number so it flows up quickly to the top of the motor under cold start up but a decent enough hot number to protect the motor when its running hot. 5w50 full synthetic with full zinc or even the penrite full zinc 5w60 full synthetic is great oil and not too thick! im using brad penn oil in mine now and i wont go back
with your oil the number on the rating you need to look at is the cold viscosity rating. 10w30 is way to thin for our motors once it heats up. look for something with a low first number so it flows up quickly to the top of the motor under cold start up but a decent enough hot number to protect the motor when its running hot. 5w50 full synthetic with full zinc or even the penrite full zinc 5w60 full synthetic is great oil and not too thick! im using brad penn oil in mine now and i wont go back
+1 to that adrian, however to free up a sticky lifter that is potentially blocked it's the best way to clean it out, free it up, without pulling the lifter out and cleaning or replacing them. Having said that, you wouldn't go ruining a great oil that your that your only using to unclog a lifter. You'd use your common sense and put cheap oil in?
Forums are a great place for info if your wanting a specific answer, they have their problems, but eventually you get to the point, and on the same token, so is researching I've always found.
I think I already said, I run 10-40W semi synthetic Penrite now.
When I first had the car (HSG) it had a terrible tapping noise and it took a good 1000kms with the additive and some cheap oil, then changing the oil and filter without the additive and running the penrite for the ticking to stop completely. It was suggested by my mechanic to run the additive again till next oil change, but I didn't think it was necessary in my case as it had gone away.
5-60 would be too thick though for where I live IMO. Brisvegas it would be alright, but not the low end of Aus I would think, like tassie.
Worth noting that in the owners handbook I have, albeit from a 98 HSG, says when heading into snow season, change your oil to a thinner 5-30 and in the summer back to their recommended 10-30. These weights are spec for Japan, where the climate MUST be colder than here in Aus.
Forums are a great place for info if your wanting a specific answer, they have their problems, but eventually you get to the point, and on the same token, so is researching I've always found.
I think I already said, I run 10-40W semi synthetic Penrite now.
When I first had the car (HSG) it had a terrible tapping noise and it took a good 1000kms with the additive and some cheap oil, then changing the oil and filter without the additive and running the penrite for the ticking to stop completely. It was suggested by my mechanic to run the additive again till next oil change, but I didn't think it was necessary in my case as it had gone away.
5-60 would be too thick though for where I live IMO. Brisvegas it would be alright, but not the low end of Aus I would think, like tassie.
Worth noting that in the owners handbook I have, albeit from a 98 HSG, says when heading into snow season, change your oil to a thinner 5-30 and in the summer back to their recommended 10-30. These weights are spec for Japan, where the climate MUST be colder than here in Aus.
captainTeeBag
Donating Members
was just saying dont believe everyone. i fijd most advice on here very easy. have you considered running some engine flush through under idle. that would be more effective than additive. yes in tassie that would be to thick. if your running a mineral or semi you should probbe changing it every 3000k. have you considered the penrite racing 10w40 full synthetic? pretty sureits zinc optimised and shear free and only about $80 for 5l
I have been using HPR10 10W50 for a while now, quietened it down dramatically
I have also tried other oils such as Castrol Edge 10W-60, Mobil 1 Extended Life 10W-60 and Shell Helix Ultra Racing 10W-60 but didnt improve the noise
I have also tried other oils such as Castrol Edge 10W-60, Mobil 1 Extended Life 10W-60 and Shell Helix Ultra Racing 10W-60 but didnt improve the noise
brisvr4
Member
I've had the revised lifters in mine for about 7 years now and it commonly sits unstated in my garage for anywhere from 1 to 6 months at a time. NEVER has lifter tick when restarted.
If the 1mm lifters were a perfect unit Mitsubishi would never have changed them.
I'd advise people to look up engbldr on Ebay and but the revised ones from him. Same supplier that Mitsubishi gets theirs from at a much better price.
But hey, people are free to do what they like in the end.
Personally I'd rather save some money on a known products rather than give it to Mitsubishi for their obscene markups...
That said, there is always products that are better off purchased from the manufacturer.
evo-gsr
Well-Known Member
Well said Tim.
Hyper_Mike
Well-Known Member
Hey guys,
Thanks so much for this wealth of knowledge, so for now I have bought some Magnatec 10w40 and the Liqid Moli additive. I am ordering a set of the 3mm lifters from engbldr as suggested, he seems to be the cheapest around as well.
How much should a mechanic charge to swap these out approx? I'm quite happy to work on my daily driver (S12 Silvia) however less enthusiastic about messing the with the 4g63.
Cheers, Mike
Thanks so much for this wealth of knowledge, so for now I have bought some Magnatec 10w40 and the Liqid Moli additive. I am ordering a set of the 3mm lifters from engbldr as suggested, he seems to be the cheapest around as well.
How much should a mechanic charge to swap these out approx? I'm quite happy to work on my daily driver (S12 Silvia) however less enthusiastic about messing the with the 4g63.
Cheers, Mike
evo-gsr
Well-Known Member
I put magnatec in my previous 4g63t gsr, ages ago and the engine didnt like it...was a bit smoky with that oil in it. Something to be aware of..
Benzo4gT
Operator
I drop the oil, put the plug back in and run diesel in my engine at idle (do not rev) for about 5-10 mins, let it drain very well at least for a beer or two then change filter etc. I got this tip from the head BMW mechanic in X city, might sound crazy but it works very well.
Yeah cool, no ticking, Tim i take it? I looked up your contact and could not find him on there mate 'engbldr' isn't on there, how much does he sell them for? If others have the same issue, I'd recommend just going to your local engine rebuilder and sourcing them OEM there.
My boss looked into the lifters and found they are OEM revised lifters. Haha, so there you go, his rant was with no purpose and hence so was mine. I'd imagine what he's said might apply to other engines more so or that he really didn't want me to buy somewhere else! But he's a knowledgable person whom I'd believe before someone typing it into a computer as I'm sure you all would aswell, cause 1st hand is just better.
My boss looked into the lifters and found they are OEM revised lifters. Haha, so there you go, his rant was with no purpose and hence so was mine. I'd imagine what he's said might apply to other engines more so or that he really didn't want me to buy somewhere else! But he's a knowledgable person whom I'd believe before someone typing it into a computer as I'm sure you all would aswell, cause 1st hand is just better.
brisvr4
Member
Oops! It's actually engnbldr!
And I'd say that he was thinking of older style v8 lifters that did used to have a habit of bleeding down!
All good.
Cheers
Tim
And I'd say that he was thinking of older style v8 lifters that did used to have a habit of bleeding down!
All good.
Cheers
Tim
evo-gsr
Well-Known Member
Well there you go..maybe now that you have your facts straight you might believe what we all have been trying to tell you all along :blink:
Hyper_Mike
Well-Known Member
Damn, so i have already bought the Magnatec 10w40
Anyway, back to my question about the install, anyone had this done know approx how much i should be looking at to have the 3mm lifters put in once i get them?
Cheers, Mike
Anyway, back to my question about the install, anyone had this done know approx how much i should be looking at to have the 3mm lifters put in once i get them?
Cheers, Mike
Get over it Jamo, I already explained myself, no need to be down right dickhead about it mate .
Don't worry about the Magnatec Hyper_Mike, just see how it goes for you. You just need the tool for it and most Mitsi places will have them and would take an hours labor I'd say maybe 1 and a half tops, or you can do it yourself with relative ease. Or simply buy one from meek and get your local to put them in.
Here's the link for the tool at Meek,
http://www.meek.com.au/index.php?_a=product&product_id=188
.Don't worry about the Magnatec Hyper_Mike, just see how it goes for you. You just need the tool for it and most Mitsi places will have them and would take an hours labor I'd say maybe 1 and a half tops, or you can do it yourself with relative ease. Or simply buy one from meek and get your local to put them in.
Here's the link for the tool at Meek,
http://www.meek.com.au/index.php?_a=product&product_id=188
evo-gsr
Well-Known Member
Only one dickhead here "mate" .. :w00t: You win that award, hands down.
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