Timing belt replacement question

[Siret]

I'm just about to do the timing belt on my car and i just need to know if i need to buy a 1/4" drive tension wrench.

How critical is it to torque the tensioner pulley to the correct setting using the special tool, or am i able to get it back as close as possible to it's original postion and then just measure the push rod position between tensioner arm and body?

Any help is much appreciated. Finding a 1/4" tension wrench which measures as low as 2Nm is impossible at local auto stores so i need to order one and get it here this week.

Also does any one know the thread diameter for the other special tool needed? Not willing to fork out $60 for one so i will just use some threaded rod. I'm assuming the pitch is 1.25 like every other bolt on the car.

 

[brisvr4]

I just use the drill bit method to set the correct spacing. It's outlined in VFAQ. I've never used the special tool for the tensioner although I think I have one in a drawer somewhere!

 

[bazeng]

Drill bit method here also...

Works well.

 

[Siret]

Cheers guys. Will see how i go.
I just exposed all timing components and found the previous owner snapped a bolt on the balancer. Was going to change seals while i'm in there so crank pulley is coming off anyway. If i can't get the snapped bolt out with a pair of pliers i may have to drill it out. I was thinking i might need to unicoil it. I'm also changing the water pump and all bearings. I'm just in 2 minds on whether i should buy a new tensioner. It's not leaking any oil but i've really got no idea how old this engine is. I would say it's getting pretty close to 100 000 kms. Anyone have any idea on the life span of these tensioners?

 

[blackvr]

Replace the tensioner ! A pretty good percentage of the dozens I've done fail over the following week after a waterpump and or belt replacement. The seal must mark up on the piston somehow when removed? i just put new ones in every time now, as its a bit of a pain having to pull covers off again !!

 

[4piknup]

the bolt that i use is the altenator adjuster bolt. the long one.
mine is a 93t, but im sure it works on the 63 as well

 

[Siret]

Having a problem with the crankshaft main sprocket. The previous owner had snapped a bolthead leaving only 3 bolts holding the harmonic balancer. I thought i would be able to get the remains of the bolt out of the sprocket but 3 drill bits later...actually i tried one of those reverse bits that bites into the bolt in the direction of removal, bolt remover bits or whatever they're called. Nearly fried my drill and then the bastard snaps. Went through 3 drill bits getting it out as i think it's hardened steel. Anyway i've put a hole through the bolt, i've used pretty much every tool i have that might be able to turn the bastard but it's stuck like the threads have fused.

I'm not too fussed if i only use 3 bolts to hold on the balancer but i'm just wondering if i use a unicoil whether it would cause any balance issues? Also is the sprocket material easy to drill and tap? There is not much material that can be taken out so i'm not too keen on doing this. My only alternative is to replace it but i'm wondering how closely matched these things are to the crank. I need the belt back on by the end of the weekend so if anybody in sydney has a vr4 crank sprocket they'd like to sell, let me know. Cheers.

 

[bazeng]

Replace the sprocket.. you'll be fine.

 

[Siret]

the bolt that i use is the altenator adjuster bolt. the long one.
mine is a 93t, but im sure it works on the 63 as well

Tried this but the 63 alternator bolt is too long, won't fit.


I finished doing the timing belt, took the car for a drive and everything seems ok. But my paranoia is now getting the better of me and I'm fighting the urge to take the front cover off again to check it's all hunky dory.

The space between tensioner arm and body should be between 3.8-4.5mm. I just managed to squeeze a 4mm allen key in there, and i could slide the pin in and out with a little bit of friction.

Just one question. Is 3.8mm a tighter belt? Or is 4.5mm a tighter belt? If i dive back in there i'd just like to know which way i should go because i suspect the belt is too tight for my liking.

 

[ctrimble92]

Tried this but the 63 alternator bolt is too long, won't fit.


I finished doing the timing belt, took the car for a drive and everything seems ok. But my paranoia is now getting the better of me and I'm fighting the urge to take the front cover off again to check it's all hunky dory.

The space between tensioner arm and body should be between 3.8-4.5mm. I just managed to squeeze a 4mm allen key in there, and i could slide the pin in and out with a little bit of friction.

Just one question. Is 3.8mm a tighter belt? Or is 4.5mm a tighter belt? If i dive back in there i'd just like to know which way i should go because i suspect the belt is too tight for my liking.

I dont think the belt tension will change 'significantly' with the change in the hydro-tensioner plunger stick-out.
The idea of the hydraulic tensioner is to keep a specified tension on the belt over its life span.
I believe the 3.8-4.5mm spec is just to ensure there is enough travel-room left in the unit, to take up the belt stretch.

But 3.8mm would be the tighter side.

 

[Siret]

That's good to know. I checked the belt anyway and realised i stuffed up. Like an idiot i tightened the crank bolt with the screwdriver in the side of the block thinking i could get the required torque holding the balance shaft in place. Turned out the oil pump sprocket had jumped 2 teeth. Didn't really notice it when i was driving. Ended up taking the flywheel cover plate off underneath the engine. Much better getting torque on that bolt jamming the flywheel in place.

Does anyone know if this crank sprocket would be suitable for a vr4?

http://www.ebay.com....=item2c5c1bdca6

 

[bazeng]

Looks the same...

Do you have balance shafts removed?
If so, the oil pump alignment doesn't matter..
If you still have it, then it does matter..

 

[Siret]

Yeah still have the balance shafts so i had to correct it. Engine feels great now, very smooth.