Timing Belt replacement

4GTuner

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Both of those tools would make it easier and more precise than trying to do it with home made tools.

Especially if your doing it all with the engine in the bay.
 
the first one can be very easily made! just a small block with dowels in it and a square cutout for the tension wrench. at work we use this "special tool" with a 3/8" tension wrench. the dowells just sit in the pulley and when using a tension wrench it allows you to get the precise angle needed for the tensioner pulley. Most of the time unless you crack the pulley bolt you never need to adjust it. thats what the hydraulic tensioner if for.

the 2nd one i have no idea what it is. it says to compress the hydraulic tensioner....i just use a vice and slowly wind it in....then use a pin to hold it in place.
 
the 2nd one i have no idea what it is. it says to compress the hydraulic tensioner....i just use a vice and slowly wind it in....then use a pin to hold it in place.
Click to expand...

Timing Belt TSB

MD998738.jpg


Free tip courtesy of Meek Automotive (we just use a length of threaded rod)
 
I'll match your drawing and raise you a page :lol:

UPDATE - Actually here is the whole procedure that you can download in a 400kb PDF: http://www.freefilehosting.net/file/?id=rdn8lK/Y9A==

The best part of the process is when you finally can take the pin out of the hydraulic tensioner. I use a small allen key instead of a pin because you have some grip on the 90' bend :wink:

timingbeltwo2.jpg
 
I have never used the first tool as I don't have a torque wrench small enough and I found a bit of threaded rod the right size and locked two nuts together for the second tool - easy and cheap (just like me :D )
 
Woah this should be a sticky thats brilliant info...

On the other hand made me realise this is a job that needs to be lef tto the professionals :p
 
Yes....timing belts are kind of crucial. unless its a non interference engine like the 4G62 SOHC (Cordia turbo) knock ya self out trying....you wont do damage if you get it wrong.
 
Incase anyone was wondering.
The rod and the offset bearing tool apply to the whole series.
4g63vr4 evo 1-9

My method to timming belt fittment.
Hold the two top sprockets in place with 2 17mm spanners
i find once you time the upper sprockets correctly secure the belt with simple paper clips.
they will hold the sprokets tight.
Then pull the belt tight down onto the oil pump sprocket.
then around the crank.
 
Maybe its just me, but I have always found that I have had to pretension the exhaust cam by two teeth to get the markings on the cams to line up once you have spun the engine over by hand.
 
I have just posted my problems in Members Rides. I had trouble seeing when the cams were in the vertical position as there are no markings. There are only marking on the cam wheels and not the head. The 2 markings on the cam wheels have to face each other, but this is not good enough to make sure the cams are timed correctly!!!!

Anyone else have trouble with this? How do I time the cams correctly the next time, and be 100% sure of this, without having to use a degree wheel and dial gauge?

Once setup, I should probably make some markings myself so I know next time.
 
JonnyRochester said:
I have just posted my problems in Members Rides. I had trouble seeing when the cams were in the vertical position as there are no markings. There are only marking on the cam wheels and not the head. The 2 markings on the cam wheels have to face each other, but this is not good enough to make sure the cams are timed correctly!!!!

Anyone else have trouble with this? How do I time the cams correctly the next time, and be 100% sure of this, without having to use a degree wheel and dial gauge?

Once setup, I should probably make some markings myself so I know next time.
Click to expand...

from what i can gather..if the dowel pins are at 12 Oclock and the cam notches meet each other face to face at 3 oclock and 9 0clock then thats where it supposed to be.

in theory..the notches can only really meet exactly oppsosite and together at one point.

right?
 
rob323 said:
Maybe its just me, but I have always found that I have had to pretension the exhaust cam by two teeth to get the markings on the cams to line up once you have spun the engine over by hand.
Click to expand...

i dont understaned how it could move..the belt is toothed and shouldnt slip...if the belt drives and doesnt move then it should come back to the same spot...
agreed?
 
JAP63 said:
from what i can gather..if the dowel pins are at 12 Oclock and the cam notches meet each other face to face at 3 oclock and 9 0clock then thats where it supposed to be.

in theory..the notches can only really meet exactly oppsosite and together at one point.

right?
Click to expand...


If one cam is at 5min past 12, and the other is at 5min to 12, then the marks on the cams still line up!!!!!! Maybe you would think this was easy to eye ball, but with such big cam gears you can have each cam out one tooth and you would swear it all lined up.

In later model EVOs they fixed this by extending the cam cover high behind the cams gears, and there are timing marks.

But one way we can double check our cam timing on these old engines is to use a straight ruller and hold it horizontal through the centre line of both cams and check the marks.
 
JAP63 said:
rob323 said:
Maybe its just me, but I have always found that I have had to pretension the exhaust cam by two teeth to get the markings on the cams to line up once you have spun the engine over by hand.
Click to expand...

i dont understaned how it could move..the belt is toothed and shouldnt slip...if the belt drives and doesnt move then it should come back to the same spot...
agreed?
Click to expand...

When the timing belt is not fitted, one of the cams will not like to sit in its spot. This is because of the valve springs. The cam will spring around to where it wants to be. You can hold the cam in position and put the belt on but it still maybe out because the timing belt will not have it's propper tension yet.
 
If you put a 1/8" drill bit into the cam gear that has the mark in the recess between the teeth, you can slide the drill bit over until it touches the head and you can tell exactly then if it is lining up with the top of the head. There are no marks on the head because they are to line up with the top of the head.

The reason why you have to advance the exhaust cam is because thats the side that has the tesioner on it. As the tensioner extends and tightens the belt, it pulls the exhaust cam back anticlockwise.
 
wouldnt one tooth off either way would just be like an adjustable cam gear.
you could either retard or advance it and with only one tooth of it wouldnt do any damage. maybe if its 2 or 3 or 4 teeth off it might pose a problem but 1 shouldnt matter should it?
 
1 tooth (zorst side) = noticable power loss, but no engine damage

(thanks to previous "engine builder" for providing me with this practical example).

It ran like a bag of shit till revs built, but when valve train was checked prior to proper resetting, there was no damage.

Actually, this is the reason I now do most/all the work myself. (I don't have the gear for some of the fabricating stuff.) I find it hard to trust some of the monkeys out there. To the point that I got myself qualified as an "Automotive Mechanical Engineer".

Rule of thumb: check, recheck, and then check it again.
 
Do you guys replace water pump timiming belt tensioner and associated pulleys at the time of timing belt replacement. Are these parts common for failing?
 

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