to all you master tec's did i forget anything will this set up work

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jace4321

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Joined
May 12, 2011
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93
Location
vic
hey got evo 2 7 bolt forged conrods +pistons+balance shaft removed +272s+adjustible cam gears+springs+stainless valve 1mm over +1.3mm head gaskit +arp head bolts +big intake +80mm throttle body +1000cc injetors+-6 fuel lines+fpr+aem fuel rail +summit high flow fuel filter+oil cooler and -10 lines +cusco super single clutch and flywheel+greddy e-manage blue+greddy e-01 +tune length exhaust mani+kinguana turbo with garrett 60-1 wheel 3 inch stainless turbo back high flow cat +hotdog+duel hks hi power mufflers(cannons) have i done some thing wrong if so have i missed some thing what hp and et's should i expect and is it to much for just rwd or should i change it back to all 4 after the dyno
 
0330chewbacca.jpg
 
sorry to sound like a prick but all you have done is listed a bunch of parts that "might", if put together right, give you a combo for between 400-600HP. The right way to do it is set out what YOU want to achieve from the car and then buy/build to suit. Only you can answer that.

Buying parts is easy - getting it together successfully is another story.

Buying modestly, thoughtfully and well matched will beat name-brand $ slapped together. As an example, ask yourself why you have chosen an aftermarket fuel rail and 80mm T/B ? Looks, performance benefit or ? There is no such thing as " doing something wrong", there's just more or less expensive ways to achieve the same thing. I've seen too many young people blowing money on forged set-ups running std turbos and then selling their close to stock power set-up 6 months later when the money has run-out.

The start should be :

street, drag, track % ?
driving style?
HP/TQ goal ?
budget/time?
workshop or home build ?
Fuel/air to suit ?
Mechanical to suit ?
Electrical to suit ?
Engine management to suit ?

The right machinist will mean everything.

Good luck.
 
to be honest just trying to get as much power without having to fix something every weekend oh standard crank in it tho not worred about time and money got most of it done starting to put it together slowly due to work and why chubucka i am currious
 
lol... watch this and you'll understand: http://www.southparkstudios.com/clips/103454/the-chewbacca-defense
When I was reading your first post in the wee hours of this morning I was saying WTF?? get some punctuation and shit in there as it just does not make sense!! lol TIC :)

With what you have listed you'ld want to have a welded centre diff in the gearbox if running in RWD as No.1 priority!!!.
The package is good for over 300kw at the rears easy but you'll find you'll need some fat rear slicks to get good tracton, but you'll probably end up breaking transfer case shafts and rear axles anyway.
 
^^^^^^^ his a wookie but lives on the planet ewoke..... THIS DOES NOT MAKE SENSE! ( head explodes )
 
first E-FAIL BLUE??? bin that, and buy a haltech
second, you have only listed parts. have you run them through an engine build program?
your crank should be de-stressed, blasted and linished, then ballanced with all other components
the head should have the ports filled in and re-shaped, 8+ angle valve job.
check your comp ratio (9;1), squish area and have the motor blueprinted...

but you should not be asking us, you should be asking your ENGINE BUILDER!!!
ive seen a 4g63 make 325hp, and ive built one that made 660hp both had similar internals and turbo, but the other was built in a backyard with happy-slap parts
 
There is a really good builder on middlebourough rd blackburn. His attention to detail is fantastic. I've heard very good things about him. He even built my freinds supra motor.


Gown-Hindhaugh Engines
 
lol not a fan of south park but yea fair enough not the best with typing and grammer do center diffs give trouble and yea wasnt going to leave it rwd for long just for dyno up here no 4wd dynos
 
no offence but builderin bendigo is cluess when it comes to anything that ant standard or v8 and whats wrong with the e manage
 
well closest 4wd dyno would be at least an hour away how would you do it as a fwd leave the lock viscos in there and drop the transfer and tail shaft isnt that the same thing tho
 
[quote name='jace's evo' timestamp='1337594771' post='256235']
no offence but builderin bendigo is cluess when it comes to anything that ant standard or v8 and whats wrong with the e manage
[/quote]
well, then i think you should take a day off and drive to a good engine builder who has experience in these motors, or freight the motor to them... its alot of money to waste if not done right....
emanage blue is a fucking shocker, any good tuner wont tune it cos its rubbish... its hard to explain unless your into ecu programing
haltech intercepter and emanage blue are the same cost, but its comparing a ferrari to a getz in performance...
 
like your reference herd a rumar that chasers tune them we do lots of shit at my work but yea sadly my bosses knowlege is limited when it comes to tuning 90% of what i know is self taught so yea wanna learn but how is the thing
 
If you need to lock your drive train to fwd or rwd, I have a viscous locker for sale. Very easy to install. Pm me. As for tuning, find a tuner in your area and ask them what ECU they know how to tune... Or get one that is already setup for your car and most tuners should know how to map an ignition and fuel table... Setup is the key imo..
 
, find a decent engine builder, get the engine and parts shipped up to them and
get it back completly assembled.
Then find an ecu that works(haltech/microtech)and find a tuner that uses the ecu that you want.
The parts are not the problem its the quality of the workmanship that counts.
I was using the same $400 rods in my 9 sec evo for over 100 passes and general driving etc.
If set up well you will make over 400 hp quite easily.Then your clutch will let go.
 

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