Turbo boost...

[Jack]

Just wondering how one goes about changing the turbo boost on an RVR.

I was told by someone that I must fit a turbo boost kit, (electronic or manual) before the boost can be changed?

What is a good boost to use for just running around town?

Cheers,
Jack.

 

[vr401]

Just wondering how one goes about changing the turbo boost on an RVR.

I was told by someone that I must fit a turbo boost kit, (electronic or manual) before the boost can be changed?

What is a good boost to use for just running around town?

Cheers,
Jack.

Manual boost controller will do the job for you. You can run around 13-15psi depending on what fuel are you using.

 

[CDJ84]

If you're just driving around town you probably should just leave it at stock, that way your turbo will last longer (hopefully :unsure: )

 

[milkandoj]

If you're just driving around town you probably should just leave it at stock, that way your turbo will last longer (hopefully :unsure: )

RUBBISH! hahah
Mitsi turbo's are very reliable, running 12-15psi isn't going to kill one.

These are good boost controllers for quite cheap. Because they aren't a bleeder type they get boost on a bit quicker to. Don't get put off just because they are cheap, they work great.
Turbotech manual turbo boost controller.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Turbotech-manual-turbo-boost-controller-ORIGINAL-/220630394267?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item335e98a59b

A reason to go electric is so you can have a few different settings. But as long as the cars not knocking (a data logger to confirm this wouldn't hurt) there no reason you can run say 14psi daily. The Gizzmo boost controllers are a good price, look great and work well.

I have the Turbotech one atm, Now im running 21psi i do get a 2psi spike if i drop it down a gear quickly. But when i was running 14psi, it held very flat all the time. I like the small spike it give a bit more mid range lol. But for yourself it shouldn't do it.

 

[MattL]

I just ordered one of those boost controllers, I get serious boost spikes with my current unit, so this should hopefully sort it out, and for the low price I wont argue!

Will keep everyone updated!

 

[vuonguz]

hey man i boosted mine to 16psi but didnt want to stuffed my turbo and the problem is that i turned down the boost it still boost at the same psi so im thinking my bboost controller is shit my get electronic like eboost or something cheaper ahaha or the t-piece as the others said its good too!!!

 

[tborvr]

I'm using a Gizzmo boost controller witch has 4 different settings but I only use 2. One is set to 14psi and the other is set to 18psi, I get boost spike 3 or 4 psi when it's set on 14 (then bleeds back )but not when it's on 18 :blink:

 

[MattL]

Steve, I go from 14PSI to 18PSI spike, then levels at 10PSI.... when it's meant to be holding 14PSI constant.

 

[milkandoj]

That's spiking pretty hard guys, 3 and 4 psi :huh:
I only started doing it when the boost was cranked up past 18psi. If the fuel system and tunes up to it enjoy the mid range, but is 18psi safe on your setups in terms of the stock injectors?

But still worth checking your knock levels and injector duty cycles with a data logger if you running on a jap ecu tune.

 

[MattL]

I have a custom tune from VR401, knocks aren't high.

 

[mattrat]

everyone thinking they have skyline turbos????
we can run upto 20 or more on a 16g reliably, i run 22 daily for the last year and a bit and so did the guy before me and no shaft play at all
the smaller 14bs are also ok upto about 15-16psi as i had this on daily for a long time aswell.
dont underestimate the mitsus

 

[milkandoj]

Im talking about if they have a stock ecu, that tuned for jap fuel it would be worth checking with a data logger for knock.
What you talking about i run 21psi daily lol. But its tuned for it.

 

[vr401]

I run 1.5 bar for last 2 years.

I just think that his turbo exhaust housing may have a small crack and the boost controller is not as good as it should be. Also, the small waste gate may be a reason too.
It shouldn't have nothing to do with the tune, if it knocks the ECU will retard the timing but turbo should still boost the same unless ECU cuts off the fuel.

 

[milkandoj]

For the ecu to retard timing it has to have spikes of knock in the first place before the ecu acts to retard timing from the targets in the high octane map.
Over a period of time it will move towards the low octane map if it has large amounts of knock for a long time.
But id rather be safe for the small cost of data logging setup.

Of course im talking about they guys running stock ecu maps, such as Jack, who asked the original question, not the guys with vr401's tunes.

 

[vr401]

For the ecu to retard timing it has to have spikes of knock in the first place before the ecu acts to retard timing from the targets in the high octane map.
Over a period of time it will move towards the low octane map if it has large amounts of knock for a long time.
But id rather be safe for the small cost of data logging setup.

Of course im talking about they guys running stock ecu maps, such as Jack, who asked the original question, not the guys with vr401's tunes.

I know that you were referring to stock ecu's being boosted over 13psi. I've dattaloged so many and all stock with boost over 13psi are knocking over 10 counts (some reading over 25 on evoscan), especially if stock exhaust is still on the car.
But on the other side, I've never heard of a healthy engine running 13psi , stock ecu and 14b turbo to melt the piston or rings which leaves only one conclusion, stock ECU is capable of retarding the timing down to the point that it doesn't do it but doing so you loose a lot of a "free" power.
PS:
Commenting my words from above, It is always better to dattalog and set the car so it doesn't knock then be unlucky and feel sorry for not doing so.
Just an example: running 15psi with a lot of knock ECU will use low octane map (very retarded timing) which will produce very low power that may even be equal to or lower then 10psi and high octane map timing.
Anything over 5 knock counts ECU will start retarding and I've seen on stock RVR ECU loggs even -1 and lower.

 

[MattL]

Got the Turbotech Manual Boost Controller, much better than my old, spikes much less, comes on about 200rpm Earlier too. pretty happy

That said, 22PSI accidentally is an impressive boost over 14PSI... but now I'm on 18 and it's running great!

 

[Jack]

Ordered a Turbotech controller earlier this week.

What sort of boost gauge do people use and where are they situated in the car?

 

[milkandoj]

3 knock counts = 1 degree of timing pulled by the ecu.
Its a different measurement for the same thing, like cm and inches. You’re not logging how much knock is there but your looking at how the ecu is reacting to how much knock it heard.

So 30 knock counts your pinging so bad the ecu acts by pulling timing 10 degree from the target.
25 counts you pulling timing by 8.3 degrees.
It pulls timing to be safe but you are getting an initial spike in that pull for the ecu to react. So the motor is getting a fair bit of knock for that to happen.
I have my CEL light set to flash on at anything over 2 degree of retard, that’s the same as 6 counts

How are you losing free power, if you have a timing target of 30 degrees advance, and it goes "ping!" and you see 30 counts its retarding timing down 10 degrees and you get 20 degrees advance. That’s what the motor in that case should be running anyway.

Im not trying to have a big tuning debate, but my car when i turned the boost up on an aggressive chip ages ago before i started using ecmlink, i got 20-30 counts of knock, so i turned the boost down to where it wouldn’t knock until i could tune it properly. Rather than drive around with it constantly reacting to the knock it was always getting and hoping that was safe. (especially as the chip had octane reset so it would always end up running the higher octane map rather than interpolate between the high and low in response to all the knock, so it would never learn and keep banging its head off as the timing targets would never get lower.
I didn’t know at the time how the counts related to timing pulled but I wanted to be safe as it was seen as a lot. Later on when I looked at RS maps which the chip ran (the pic of the maps vr401 provided me, thanks) I could see the timing targets on boost were 30-31, and then I was getting 30 counts the timing was going down to ~20-21 degrees so it all makes sense to me later on now actually tuning the car not running an rs map. Im glad I turned the boost down till I had the tools to tune it properly.

Maybe the guys getting a bit of knock there should get one of you chips written up if they want to run more boost?

 

[Jack]

I don't want to run very high boost but do want to be able to set it to a good setting for normal driving. I was thinking around 12PSI?

The car does have a K&N pod filter and the exhaust has the large muffler at the back removed and a straight through one fitted.

 

[milkandoj]

Ordered a Turbotech controller earlier this week.

What sort of boost gauge do people use and where are they situated in the car?

How about an autometer gauge bought from an american ebay seller. You'll pay about 40 bucks to ship it so the prices are much cheaper than in Australia once you add the price of the gauge and the shipping up.

I would get a data logger setup happening and keep tuning the boost up till you get some knock. Its only knock or running lean that will kill your motor not the extra airflow from turning the boost up. Running more boost presure has the effect of creating more heat in the inlet air, so that brings you closer to the knock limit.
Run as much boost as you stock fuel system will allow, so look at you injector duty cycles and how much knock you get. If your not blowing some black smoke out the exhaust on boost (drive behind the car while somone else drives the rvr and have a look) from being nice and rich (safe) and you wanted piece of mind, throw it on the dyno for a power run to check you afr's.
Thats why you can make more power at less boost on a bigger turbo, you flowing more air and less heat so you can run a more aggressive tune and not knock.

If you cant be bothered doing all this, like vr401 said hes seen rvrs showing a bit of knock around 13psi, so 12 would be pretty safe.