Turbo Charger Question.

[lefty]

Alright, I know the basics of how one works, but I dont know where the lines all go unfortunately. I raise these questions because mitsu has changed something on my car and i dont know if its right or not, and would like to know myself once and for all.

I've tried to draw a diagram of the way the car looks/seems to be connected. Mitsu removed my bleed valve (pink dotted lines), and instead has connected from the T piece this red hose drawn in the picture which seems to go to the air intake of the turbocharger. Is this correct? If not, what is the connector on the intake there for and why has mitsu connected it there? From memory, im fairly sure this was blocked while i had my bleed value, but not entirely sure because i never paid much attention.

heres my leet diagram [updated slighty]

 

[GSRSOL]

i thought thats the way you were supposed to hook up a bleed valve? How did you have it hooked up before?>
:?

BTW it took me like 30 minutes to work out your diagram LOL :lol:

 

[brisvr4]

Looks like they have taken it back to stock from that diagram?
Are you sure that you have 2 vac lines running to your bov?

Here is a diagram that might help

 

[lefty]

what are those diagrams :S?
they are too small and hard to follow, and im not that smart with cars :S

They just removed my bleed valve (which ive put purple lines around) and instead connected a hose from that spot where the bleed valve was connected to (a T-Piece), and connected it to the intake side of the turbo charger. Note that the other part in blue from the turbo discharge to the wastegate is still there, they just removed my bleed valve, and connected a hose from the t-piece to the intake side of the turbo and im wondering if that is normal?

"Are you sure that you have 2 vac lines running to your bov?"
I think you've misread/interpreted my diagram. Ive uploaded this pic to help. It does make sense. The pressure from the intake manifold goes back through the bov, through the plumback hose when you change/take your foot off the accelerator so it doesnt go back into the turbo & damage it/spin it the wrong way. Im assume the vac line is what detects this change and opens up the bov to let the air go back to the intake pipe and this makes your woosh sound?? Actually i might be wrong on what the vac line does :S



this is how a boost controller from gfb is installed, exactly like how mine was but now mine has a t-piece going from there back to the intake, and i have no idea if that is normal :S

 

[brisvr4]

I'm pretty sure from your description that your car should now be running stock boost.
See if one of the Melb guys can take a look at it for you. (NOT Mitsubishi!)

 

[lefty]

I'm pretty sure from your description that your car should now be running stock boost.
See if one of the Melb guys can take a look at it for you. (NOT Mitsubishi!)

yea but i just dont understand it though. If my bleed valve was there, then say the wastegate on a tdo4 is 7psi, and my bleed valve was 7psi leak, then that would be a total of 14psi boost.

although now theres no bleed valve, but instead goes straight back into the intake, so is half the air is bleeded into the intake and half into the wastegate still making it 14, or am i really confused here :S?

 

[brisvr4]

It will run stock boost.
Somewhere between 10-12psi I would expect.
You did say that you have a boost gauge didn't you?

 

[lefty]

It will run stock boost.
Somewhere between 10-12psi I would expect.
You did say that you have a boost gauge didn't you?

no i dont, when i bought the car, i was told that my bleed valve (thats been removed) was exactly made so the car ran 14psi.

Therefore...
A. I need to get a boost gauge so i know wtg is going on (so now i have to figure out where the fark u connect the lines, but shudnt be hard)
B. If its back to stock (thats fine for now, no probs)
C. In the future ill buy another fckn bleed valve from GFB (Gay because my old one was awesome and looked v.stock, looked like a pipe)

I just made this post to make sure that whats been changed wont damage my turbo etc, because atm, it is very very whistly (accelarating & decellerating) and i asked mitsu to check it and they've done this :S

 

[brisvr4]

When you do get another boost controller I would buy this one.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Turbotech-ma...3QQihZ010QQcategoryZ43808QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

A lot of the guys on here run them and love em!

Get a boost gauge asap as your FIRST purchase

You will be an expert on these cars before you know it!

 

[lefty]

When you do get another boost controller I would buy this one.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Turbotech-ma...3QQihZ010QQcategoryZ43808QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

A lot of the guys on here run them and love em!

Get a boost gauge asap as your FIRST purchase

You will be an expert on these cars before you know it!

yea i know, ill figure out the boost gauge later though, because i need a dam custom A-Pillar and have nfi where to get that done

but i have a question, if they wanted to remove the bleed valve, why not remove the t-piece and connect the output from the turbo to the wastegate, then it would be set to stock right?

Does anyone have a gsr that has the stock boost running and tell me if their lines run like mine or where does this small intake pipe connect/lead to?

 

[Richard]

Just a quick question; Why was the bleed valve removed?

From what I can make out by the picture the wastegate is hooked up incorectly, my car is a GSR so could be slightly different (your a VR4 right?) but to run stock boost there is a factory solienoid valve that plumbs in to let air into the line between the turbo boosted air and the wastegate. I was under the beleif that the line going back to the inlet side(atmospheric) from the solenoid was only plumbed in there for emisions If there is as you suggest just a tee piece allowing unrestricted leaking of boost pressure to the wastegate it will never open?

A boost guage would be prolly the only way to see what is happening, this is best hooked up via a tee piece directly connected to the inlet manifold, either the line that goes to your fuel pressure regulator or the blow off valve would be the places I would recomend.

The pic I have quickly drawn shows how I think the factory setup is:

 

[lefty]

yea mines a gsr...

solenoid ey.. it would make sense then i guess... so if my wastegate never opens, that means too much boost = bad = tnxs mitsu.

they first told me 'my wastegate was missing', i was like wtf & it was $30 so i was like wtg but ok, then when i picked it up they said 'your wastegate never opened because your missing a hose", and when i had a look at home they have taken off the bleed valve, grrrrrrr.

i actually found this... (http://www.rtec.ch/turbo_basics.html)
"Usually the Compressors output will be connected by a vacuum hose to the wastegate-actuator. Therefore the bigger the boost of the compressor the more the wastegate opens and the less boost will be produced. But less boost means closing the wastegate more and therefore more boost will be produced. To get more control for opening and closing the wastegates, the 3000GT/Stealth are having a solenoid valve that, activated by the ECU, releaves some of the boost out of the hose that runs to the wastegate acuators. This circle regulates the boost our car needs to go that faaaaast This is the basic functionality for getting more boost."

So am i right in assuming that...
1. I now need a solenoid if i want to run stock boost or remove the hose mitsubishi added, and close/block the hole in the intake side and one part of the t-piece.
2. The solenoid was there to release the boost in the hose and mitsu decided to put it back into the intake (which sounds right).

3. So if my wastegate cannot truely see how much pressure there is from the compressor outlet because of a constant bleed, it will not open/bleed air properly, thus my car will be running alot of boost? Inture mitsu replaced my precise bleed valve with just a pipe where air flows out/loosing pressure so the wastegate wont open properly? Great.

http://www.xmission.com/~dempsey/perform/bleed1.htm
Thats what my car was like, before... gargh this is hom if everything ive said is becoming true.

Fckn i think im just going to ring my mechanic tomorrow & book the dam car in.

 

[Richard]

Yeah I think your getting the idea, that link you just posted shows the setup, basicly tho instead of the valve you have an electric solenoid and the "bled" air does'nt go into the atmosphere rather back into the intake. perhaps when Mitsu said your wastegate was missing ($30) they were refering to your wastegate soleinoid.

I have one if you wanna have a go at hooking it up on the weekend..

 

[matress]

hey man,
check out this diagram

if you're looking for a new bleed valve, those turbotech ones off ebay are great, and very cheap!

 

[lefty]

hey richard, can you show me a pic of what this solenoid looks like?

ive booked my car into my mechanic for thurs, the car doesnt sound right, sigh [somehow i think my turbo is on its way out]

turbotech ey, seems the GFB isnt anywhere near as good apparently to peoples comments. what about the turbosmart bleed valve? they look the same :|

heres a pic of my T-Piece, the left side connects to the wastegate.


heres the hose from the turbo output into the right side of the t-piece


heres the hose mitsu put in and connected from the t-piece to the intake, instead of just leaving my bleed valve (gr)

 

[Richard]

Pic tomoro, it is bolted to a braket under the battery tray, has conection with 2x wires going into it. Yeah I don't think the vacumm lines are hooked up right by your photos.

Edit: Pic as requested, Yours is probably still bolted there just cant see it! mine is disconected as I have installed a variable boost controler,

 

[lefty]

tnxs richard
i dont think i have that

ghey

going to look @ boost gauges tomorrow

i wanted a pivot but too expensive
apexi one i like but prefer 52mm
so proberly the hks one

and then i guess ill need a turbosmart bleed valve or the one from ebay but i need to be able to get it before wednesday :S

 

[lefty]

time for an update
alright, got my apexi el2 mechanical boost gauge

was connected via here.. correct? (99% sure thats right)


I also got that bleed valve off ebay, although i think hes connected it backwards? Is it just me or what? Atm car was boosting to 1.5Bar which is extreme (my aim is to set it to just less than 1bar), only tried it once, anyways im 99% sure its the other way round? I guess ill be changing it around tonight.




btw, car seems to go flying now
had a crack in the engine pipe/flange, so new piping from the exhaust place + fixed one bolt that was broken on the manifold

 

[lefty]

update again

yay fixed it, pulled the bleed valve off (fckn tight to pull the hoses off from those connectors) and put it the other way round (the right way), and now its boosting to .9bar (~13psi) max and drops off in the higher rev range which is normal after reading the skyline forums...

so its now working correctly. Happy, now i know my car is working correctly

finally after 2-3 weeks i can ease my brain, i suppose i learnt alot from this but

got the apexi el2 boost gauge
might have to find someone to make me a custom pillar.

 

[Richard]

Update? Does that boost control valve work well? does it hold boost steady?
and did sombody say custom guage pod, pft...