Turbo Ideas

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Callan Bull

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Feb 24, 2014
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Sutherland, NSW
Starting to get deeper in a build idea and knowing a few pieces of vital information is going to determine my turbo choice.

I haven't been able to find much comparative information between GT series turbos from the likes of Garrett or HKS, etc. And our TD05 and TD06 turbos. To cut to the chase, I would like to keep the original housing style and manifold for a semi-stock appearance.

One option I've been thinking of doing, but will end up quite costly but please bear with me. I hate the idea of ebay turbos but i was looking at a Kingugawa TD06sl2 25g, mainly because it seems to be the largest factory fitting turbo available. What I would then do is send it away to a company in QLD who's name I cannot remember right now that deal with "Billet Turbochargers". I have been quoted $800.00 for a billet turbochargers dual ball bearing cartridge in place of the kinugawa's. As far as I'm aware, that would equate to a fairly gnarly turbo.

Or I could go the tried and tested way of a GTX3076R or something.

Size compared to the GT series, how big is a TD06sl2 25G?
 
3076 has a slightly smaller compressor wheel but a bigger turbine wheel and is a better balanced turbo.

gtx3076 will make more power
 
Garret GT3076
TURBINE
Inducer Diameter: 55mm
Exducer* Diameter: 60mm

COMPRESSOR
Inducer Diameter: 57.0mm
Exducer Diameter: 76.2mm

TD06SL2-25G
TURBINE
Inducer Diameter: 54mm
Exducer* Diameter: 61mm

COMPRESSOR
Inducer Diameter: 60.2mm
Exducer Diameter: 78mm

(Copied from evolutionm)
 
+1 for holset with BEP (Bullseye Power) exhaust housing.
Oh and get an O2 housing with an external wastegate.
Turbo will set you back about $500 second hand (they are cheap to rebuild... Like $60 lol)
BEP housing will cost you roughly $350ish
O2 housing with external wastegate flange $400ish
Wastegate $300ish
It is a bolt-on turbo, should produce 20+ psi by 3500rpm (so stock like spool) and can produce around 300kw@wheels.

Want more power? Put the stock housing back on and get a twin scroll T3 manifold and you should get around 600hp out of it (by going twin scroll, you get same spool as the BEP housing) which makes it a GT35 competitor.
And unlike the gt turbos, it is easily rebuild able. Since it was designed for trucks as an OEM, you can get 250,000ks plus out of it before rebuilding.
Need more convincing, check out the DSM sites, they love holsets over there.
 
Holset all day everyday....best turbo I have used to this day. Comes on hard and pulls all the way to redline.
300kw is easily achievable with one too.
 
you can get my turbo (borg warner s259) with the .55 bep housing too but that's what chokes them.

I made 385awkw with a .76 twin scroll housing, you wont make that on a bep.
 
plenty of good results floating about with precisions, I hear the ball bearing ones are a touch fragile though
 
Yeh ive seen some good results aswell, didnt know about the ball bearings being like that tho. Im about to order a pte 5858 billet dbb but might swing holset way yet not sure what will get me 600hp+ tho

Sorry for hijacking ur thread lol
 
I've used 2 different Precision turbos for the last 5 years with no issues at all.
Both were journal bearing units.
The first was a 50 trim in a mitsubishi housing which was good for about 126mph in the 1/4 and now I run a 6262 which has run 132 for me so far.
The 50 trim is now on Nigels Evo 3.

Just make sure to use a decent sized drain if you choose a journal bearing unit.
George, can you link to where you hear that about the ball bearing units as I have not heard that anywhere?
 
ill have a dig about but they run a ceramic bearing core which is nice and light be not reliable

journal is the way to go
 
HX35 should get you to 600hp... but you would prob need a twin scroll T3 manifold and use the stock 12cm housing.

HX40 will get you to 700hp with a twinscroll manifold and the stock 18cm housing

word of note... these turbos are designed to run high boost... so really come into their own once you start running 30-40psi through them


Dougmo... the only reason to run the .55 BEP housing on the HX35 is that BEP's .55 housing for Holsets has a evo flange rather than T3, so can run stock manifold (have to dent water pipe though)
 
Don't base your decision solely on outright HP figures or how soon a turbo spools and what rpm it hits max boost, as you need to make an informed decision based on useable rpm range and a compromise between low/high end performance expectations.
You really also need to supply more information like the engine mods you have; are you building a setup that will be based around a desired turbo/hp level?; or are you choosing a turbo to suit an engine package that has already been built? There's a BIG DIFFERENCE :)
I say don't buy a turbo until you know to what extent you're willing to mod the engine, fuelling, intake, exhaust and engine management first.
Figure out where you want your power to come on, what max rpm range you're engine will be happy with and what boost levels (and fuel) you're willing to put through your engine.
If you want the semi-stock appearance based on OEM configuration then you cant go past looking at what GTPumps, Forced Performance and Precision Turbo have to offer.
Look at their turbo efficiency maps and choose something that matches your needs. Before committing, just double check with the company first to make sure they concur with your expectations.
 

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