turbo timer/ boost controller

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vr4goleta

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Joined
Mar 19, 2008
Messages
141
Location
Brisbane, Southside
Ok, so I thought i would save a few dollars and buy a cheaper BCU turbo timer/Boost controller, but now im sort of regreting it. I wired it up exactly how the book said but it didnt work! So i re-wired how i thought it should go, and the manual turbo timer seems to work. But auto turbo timer finishes counting down and the engine keeps running. The lights on the dash also start flashing. Also boost controller feature does not work. I have even tried putting my multi meter on the output to the controller solenoid, and at 8 PSI, when the stock wastegate opens and the solenoid should restrict the wastegate actuator, it reads 0.07V. Which tells me the unit is not sending the signal to the solenoid. For the past week i have tried everything i can think of with the wiring but the boost controller and auto timer still dont seem to work. Im going to get my brother to come over today and get him to double check all my wiring as he is better at electrics then me, this is to confirm that is an internal failure with the unit.

But i would like to confirm if a J-Spec VR4 is single ignition wire only or dual??

Thanks heaps
Logan
 
Easy fix.
1.Pull crap turbo timer out and thorw in nearest waste receptacle.
2. Drive car sensibly for last 2 km's or so of trip or sit in car for a minute or so and idle it.
Problem solved :)
 
brisvr4 said:
Easy fix.
1.Pull crap turbo timer out and throw in nearest waste receptacle.

Better still, take it back and get your money back. If you can't get your money back, then smash the f*cker with a hammer and then do as Tim suggested above.

You can run up to 13 psi on a vr4 without the need for a boost controller, this will be just under the factory boost cut, or if it is chipped, you can run as much as 15 psi (with an overboost spike up to 17-18 psi) without needing a boost controller.

If you want to discuss in depth why turbo timers are actually bad for your motor, then pm me.
 
rob323 said:
Better still, take it back and get your money back. If you can't get your money back, then smash the f*cker with a hammer and then do as Tim suggested above.

You can run up to 13 psi on a vr4 without the need for a boost controller, this will be just under the factory boost cut, or if it is chipped, you can run as much as 15 psi (with an overboost spike up to 17-18 psi) without needing a boost controller.

If you want to discuss in depth why turbo timers are actually bad for your motor, then pm me.

how can you run 13 psi without a boost controller and can it be done on an aus spec as well

cheers
aaron
 
This all used to be on VFAQ but the link seems to be dead now.

Step one, make sure the boost signal for the wastegate is take from the intake side of the intercooler, not the turbo side.

Step 2 - For 12-13 psi (once you have a free flowing exhaust)
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art.../185405-bcs-restrictor-removal-explained.html
http://www.plymouthlaser.com/bcs.htm
http://web.archive.org/web/20040408185017/http://www.freewebs.com/seanspage/BCS.html

This was enough for my car to hit boost cut in the upper gears on very cold winter nights only.

For 15 psi, remove the hose that goes to the BSC and plug it straight into the air can creating a bleed setup. The downside to this is that you need a chip to overcome the boost cut and your ecu can no longer reduce boost levels if it senses a problem. Before doing this, it is wise to upgrade the fuel system (injector and pump) so you don't start to reach their limits.
 
rob323 said:
Better still, take it back and get your money back. If you can't get your money back, then smash the f*cker with a hammer and then do as Tim suggested above.

seriosly considering it, as the cunt dosnt seem to want to give me a refund as he (dosnt think its fair) and has stopped replying to my emails, i think its time to pay someone a visit ;)
 

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