Turbo to Manifold Nuts and Bolts

[ENGINR]

My new Garrett turbo doesn't have threaded holes in the turbine housing like the standard EVO ones, so I can't just swap the studs out and reuse them.

I'm assuming that nuts and bolts are required so I'm just curious to know what you guys have used (I'm thinking ARP header bolts with locknuts and hardened washers) but before I go spending time and $$$ on what could possibly be the wrong direction, thought I'd ask first.

Cheers!

 

[DOUGMO]

is there thread in the manifold shayne? if so get some inkonel studs and lock wire on the nuts.(if you can get to them underneath)

 

[ENGINR]

Nah, no thread on the manifold either.

Am going to visit The Metric Men later this week and sort something out.

 

[DOUGMO]

bolts and nuts all round will be a pain in the arse I reckon, might have to do though

 

[ENGINR]

bolts and nuts all round will be a pain in the arse I reckon, might have to do though

I'm going to have to assemble the turbo to the manifold before bolting it all to the head anyway.

 

[DOUGMO]

that should make it a touch easier. ideally you would sort some way of using studs but they might have to be too big

 

[ENGINR]

I was looking at these in the NASCAR version so they come pre-drilled for lock wiring.

http://www.jegs.com/p/ARP/ARP-Header-Bolt-Kit/744888/10002/-1

 

[kaotik]

Possible stupid question but couldn't u tap your own thread and get studs to suit?

 

[4piknup]

I was looking at these in the NASCAR version so they come pre-drilled for lock wiring.

http://www.jegs.com/p/ARP/ARP-Header-Bolt-Kit/744888/10002/-1

They are cool, there is no listings for metric stuff tho. And we prob need 7/16 or even 1/2 maybe?
300 grade heatproof stainless. NICE

 

[EVOCPE]

Hmmm.. retapping is a pain, but if you do, i got these in mine, turbo to mani, and the dump awesome quality

http://www.ffwdconnection.com/boltkits.shtml

 

[EVO-00X]

Most of the time when a stud snaps its inside the thread in a flange anyway which means its 10x harder to get out, let alone doing it without damaging the thread.
Bolts dont seem such a bad idea in that case as they are easily removable and replaced
However, another alternative could always be to drill the 4 holes for the T3 flange, but instead of tapping a thread in them, put a snug fitting stud (or a bolt with the head cut off it) through the flange and weld the back ends of them in place.
Use some decent quality studs/bolts of course. Then if they ever snap, to remove them you could easily just grind the weld off and install new ones (see pic)
I used wave washers on mine and then 2 x nuts. I didnt see a need for fancy schmancy filddly stuff there... I just used a second nut to lock the first one in good :lol: