yuck! Iridiums are only good in lightly modified cars..waste of tiem on anything you want to make power from. ALL the cars that come into the workshop that run iridiums run like shit on the dyno, soon as plugs are changed over to ngk 7 or 8 heat range they have more power. In a stock car or light mods, iridiums are good but still a waste of $$$.
Sick_RVR, you have essentially a vr4/or evo 3 motor, things like spark plugs choices can be found at your local auto shop guide book i ran BP6s (code could be wrong) in mine before but now running the 7 heat range
dont get hks plugs either, just cause plugs cost lots doesnt mean they are better..put some hks plugs in my rvr and they were just as bad as iridiums learn from my mistakes..just normal ngks ftw
NGK BPR 6ES or NGK BPR 6EY. Available ex stock from most places including Supa Cheap. around 4 bucks each. Oh and the "R" designates a resistor type plug which I have been told "must" get. From personal experience i believe the final designated letter Y or S indicates if the electode has a v notch in the end, or whether the electrode end is simply flat. I might be wrong about the final letter designation but when i compare the two, that is the only visible noticeable difference. Just replaced mine after having a slight miss at around 4500rpm under load. Dont have the miss any more.
Think that is my problem with my car. When I get to about 4000-5000 rpm it jerks or miss but after that It gos hard again. When it miss the car sound like it's back firing and really grunty. Alot of pop pop pop then flys off
No. For your car, no -11 should be used. The large gap will cause the miss fire. The -11 represents 1.1mm gap. You should be running approx .6 to .8 gap. Start at .8 and go down. Stop reducing the gap once the miss fire is gone.